FrankTheDog Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 With the cost of a speedi sleeve and seal for it, you may be better off spending a couple bucks more for a new u bolt yoke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 it pains me to see someone spend so much on a lousy d-35. :( I've purchased whole 8.8s and 8.25s for that much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted September 16, 2011 Author Share Posted September 16, 2011 Pete, I know its a lousy axle, but I also do not have the time/space, or knowhow to swap axles at the moment. This axle has got to get me through till spring, and then I can start figuring out over the winter how/where to do the swap. IF it runs more than $150 with the speedi sleeve, I will skip it, and just keep topping it off over the winter. After my last experience with a full rebuild, this is the only money I will put toward this axle. Besides, this is a street truck only, and I do not have 4wd.... -E. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 Pete, I know its a lousy axle, but I also do not have the time/space, or knowhow to swap axles at the moment. This axle has got to get me through till spring, and then I can start figuring out over the winter how/where to do the swap. IF it runs more than $150 with the speedi sleeve, I will skip it, and just keep topping it off over the winter. After my last experience with a full rebuild, this is the only money I will put toward this axle. Besides, this is a street truck only, and I do not have 4wd....-E. Â Not trying to talk you out of what you're doing, I understand that you can't do a swap right now, but thought I'd mention that me(and my family) has owned 8 Jeeps (6 XJs and 2 MJs) with the D35. The only one of those axles to die was in the only truck of those 8 that had a 2.5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted September 16, 2011 Author Share Posted September 16, 2011 Geo, I hear ya. -E. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 personally, I'd just keep topping it off and save that money towards a later upgrade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted September 16, 2011 Author Share Posted September 16, 2011 Pete, I know. I can't afford to do anything at all until next month anyway, as I just spent about the same money chasing down a metal valve cover and gasket for it also. I suppose some would say thats foolish too, as its only a 2.5. I will continue to think about it till the next payday. On that note (of swapping axles) are there ANY that are a direct swap?!? MJ's up here are pretty scarce, so finding a D44 out of a Metric Ton, I think would be a lost cause. -Erin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 Unfortunately the only direct swap is out of another MJ. Â XJ axles are the same, but need the XJ perches cut off and new perches welded on in the MJ spots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted September 17, 2011 Author Share Posted September 17, 2011 Good info to know. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted October 10, 2011 Author Share Posted October 10, 2011 Hey Guys....Truck is off to the shop to get the pinion seal done. I let them know that I want only the seal replaced, and the yolk shaft cleaned up, that if there is anything else wrong with the axle, I'll drive it till it breaks and replace it with a D44. After it comes back, I back to chasing a steering clunk problem, which I so far suspect the track bar.... -E. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 I agree that it may well be the frame end of the track bar. But if it is, the problem is most likely a wallowed out hole in the track bar bracket, and replacing the track bar itself won't fix the problem. Â I have now owned 2 Cherokees and 2 Comanches, ranging from 1987 to 1996 and 79,000 miles (one of he 87s, surprisingly) to 187,000 miles (the newest, 1996 one). Â They have ALL had to have the track bar frame BRACKET replaced because of a wallowed out hole. Upside is, I now have spare track bars for my stock MJ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted October 11, 2011 Author Share Posted October 11, 2011 As I watched the track bar moving while turning the wheel, I felt the top of the nut/threaded stem, and it was not moving at all, (if it was, would indicate the track bar mounting hole being out of round) the only play was in the "ball joint" at the end of the track bar. I'm really stumped on this one, as I can't really hear it outside the cab, but the noise is prevallent inside the cab, at the steering wheel. I have posted another thread about this, and I'm still stumped, and do not want to keep throwing money at it, as I'm not positive thats the issue. -E. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted October 12, 2011 Author Share Posted October 12, 2011 Hey Guys, I had the rear pinion seal done today. Yes it was more than the original quote, but they also replaced the rear U-joint which had failed, causing the pinion leak. He said as I was leaving....keep an eye on it, and it should go another 140,000 miles, that the innards looked good. -E. now back to my steering problem.... :fs1: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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