Automan2164 Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 Don, I get the concern about the crush sleeve, but as it was explained to me by a "crafty veteran" of the Jeep world... When all you are doing is removing and re-installing the yoke, when you put the nut back to where it was, essentially, nothing has changed. The sleeve will still retain its original crush/tension, and all the bearings/setup remain in order. As for needing the gear ratio... I wouldn't think that has any bearing on the seal... I thought a D35 was a D35. Rob :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted September 8, 2011 Author Share Posted September 8, 2011 Id like to stop this one from leaking! And...I do not have the money for an axle upgrade. I need some info.... Am I correct that I do NOT have a "crush washer" setup?!? IF the above is the case, what is the torque spec for the yolk nut? This D35 is dead quiet, and IF I can get a few more miles out of it by replacing the pinion seal, Id like to. I kind of feel like a few replies have been getting me the run around. :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted September 8, 2011 Author Share Posted September 8, 2011 The guys at O'Reilly's said there are 2 different pinion seals depending on what gear ratio?!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 I kind of feel like a few replies have been getting me the run around. :( ? Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted September 8, 2011 Author Share Posted September 8, 2011 I asked if I in fact had an axle without a crush washer based on the build date, and the advice given was to drive it till it breaks, and upgrade, when all along Ive said, I cannot afford to do that....!?!? Can anyone tell me based on build date which axle I have? The axle tubes are pretty crusty and I can find no markings. Is the only other way to tell what I have to open the diff cover? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 Don, I get the concern about the crush sleeve, but as it was explained to me by a "crafty veteran" of the Jeep world... When all you are doing is removing and re-installing the yoke, when you put the nut back to where it was, essentially, nothing has changed. The sleeve will still retain its original crush/tension, and all the bearings/setup remain in order. As for needing the gear ratio... I wouldn't think that has any bearing on the seal... I thought a D35 was a D35. Rob :dunno: Rob, Dana definitely recommends to NOT reuse the crush sleeve. That being said, some oldtimers say that by counting the turns carefully when removing the pinion nut and reinstalling the same, all will be fine. It's a gamble. As far as the OP, he doesn't even know his gear ratio or if he has a c-clip axle or not. 1990 was the first year for the c-clip axle in for XJ/MJ and you know how first year equipment changes go. In order for the OP to be sure pull the damn cover and look at it then you'll know what what you have. I guess that's a run-around, eh? OP, just do whatever you want mate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted September 8, 2011 Author Share Posted September 8, 2011 I'm not trying to piss anyone off. I'm merely trying to get correct information. I will take this to the mechanic. I'm sorry I'm seemingly wasting everyone's time. -E. Edit: I did not know the only way to find out gear ratio was to pull the cover (other than the missing tag) I also did not know the only way to ID a "C-clip" axle is to pull the cover. And, the run around I thought I was getting is everyone telling me to just upgrade. Some of us are not made of money. I honestly do not know all the intricacies of finding out which damn axle I have. I do NOT have the money to upgrade. Thanks all for helping me out, and getting me the info I specifically asked for. :wall: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 :headpop: You just need to CHILL. A seeping pinion seal will not ruin your rear end. It doesn't have to be a world ending omi-god scenario... At best, it might spray some oil on the underside of the bed, helping out with rust protection. Have the parts store order both seals. Buy them. Bring them home. Take off the cover and look at your gears. The bigger vertical gear will have a stamped set of numbers, a set will be in a pair of 2, IE, 41 11. Take the bigger number and divide it by the smaller number. That is your ratio. Use that to select the proper seal. Next, look at the smaller gears inside the housing. Push in on one of the axle's via the wheel. If it has a c-clip axle, you will see a little c-clip at the end of the shaft, held in by the gear. It will be recessed into the smaller gears. That will tell you whether or not it's a c-clip. You should be fine. RELAX. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted September 8, 2011 Author Share Posted September 8, 2011 I'm sorry. I'm really frustrated. You have no idea the last few weeks Ive had with Jeep rear end issues. I was ready to push the XJ out in to oncoming traffic. Where on the axle tubes might I find a "c-clip" stamp? My axles are pretty cruded up on the outside. I was assuming from my build date 5/29/88 that I do not have a c-clip axle, and therefore do not have a crush sleeve, but apparently it is not safe to assume. -E. IF the only other way to tell what I have, is to tear it apart, I guess thats the next route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Warrior Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 Where are you located? I will gladly swap my non leaking D35 for your leaky version. Its under my project truck but will be scrapped because I have a D44 for it. I also have a 29 spline 8.25 I will let you have for $75. If you have a buddy who can weld, this would be a very good and cheap option. No money now? Just keep the 35 filled with fluid and save for a swap. A mechanic will probably charge you $500 to replace the pinion seal. Consider your options: 1. Replace pinion seal per the recommendations here. Risk altering the gear set up or having no issues. 2. Top off the 35s fluid and drive. Put pennies in a can and save for an axle swap. 3. Let a mechanic touch your axle an pay a hefty price. More than likely this will cost much more than an axle swap. I was not aware the 35s had build dates. If you remove the diff cover and look at the axle shafts you will be able to determine if you have a c clip axle or not. The clips will become visible if somebody pushes in on a tire, allowing the clip to pop into view. The c clips are clipped around the end of the axle shaft inside the differential. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted September 8, 2011 Author Share Posted September 8, 2011 87warrior....I am in Mpls MN. I got a quote from a mech for $150 (or less) Yes, D35's have build dates, and the early ones are much easier to fix this issue. (use shims instead of crush sleeve to set the preload on the bearings) So, IF I have the earlier axle, changing out the pinion seal is a no brainer (for $20 to not have it pissing in my driveway) Either way, for the $20 I'll risk doing it myself. Ive heard from enough folks already who have been successful in changing out the seal, and in the meantime, I'll start saving for the axle swap. Once I open the diff cover, I'll report back. Got to soak the diff cover bolts in some penetrating oil for a couple days. -E. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 The "D35" or "D35C" should be stamped on the axle at the Model Casting Number location on the diagram. If you can see the Bill of Materials (BOM) number on the right axle tube, I can get the axle specs IF no one has done any modifications to the diff inside. A Dana BOM number format will always be six digits followed by a hyphen and then one more digit, no letters involved. xxxxxx-x Most of the time it's tough to see the whole BOM number though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 There's a much, much easier way to identify C-clip vs non C-clip. Look through your rear wheel. Look at your brake drum. Non C-clips use 10x1.75" brakes and the drum looks like this: C-clips use 9x2.25" brakes and the drum looks like this: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted September 8, 2011 Author Share Posted September 8, 2011 Ok....No "model number" in the specified location, in the upper right corner, its stamped 35C (which I am to understand means "custom") In the model "location" there is a 2 stamped into the casting. It has smooth brake drums....I assume this means I have a C-clip axle. I'll report when I open the cover. -E. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderbear Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 Wow. This much angst over a pinion leak, I'd hate to see you when a head gasket or a rear main goes.. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted September 8, 2011 Author Share Posted September 8, 2011 ^Ive dealt with both thanks. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted September 8, 2011 Author Share Posted September 8, 2011 My reaction to my last rear main bearing was to drive it to the dealership and throw the keys on the guys desk, (2 weeks ago today) they bought the truck back, at a huge discount. Read some of the posts in this thread about my xj, then you would begin to see my frustration....After dumping $4000 into having the rear end overhauled once a year, I finally dumped the truck, after the dealer I sold it to, letting me know I had not seen the whole carfax report on the XJ when I initially bought it and that it had been rear ended hard, and rebuilt, and It would never work right even after replacement of the rear end completely. This pinion leak was not visable when I bought this new MJ 2 weeks ago. Can you folks now see my frustration with rear end work? Id simply like to keep the MJ from pissing oil all over my driveway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted September 8, 2011 Author Share Posted September 8, 2011 I should add, that after a few beers last night, and some time to put my brain in to other things, I'm much less frustrated today. Trying to keep a positive attitude. :banana: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted September 15, 2011 Author Share Posted September 15, 2011 Hey folks. I thought Id update this. I spoke with the local differential specialty shop (they do almost everyone's rebuilds) and the quoted me an hours labor to change out the pinion seal, and do it correctly (no guess work) Added up all the things I would need to get a hold of to do this (rent an impact wrench, get the seal, new fluid, etc) and it came up to about the same price. I'll be having them do the seal next month. -E. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 how much was it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 I seriously doubt the cost of the parts is going to be included in their labor quote. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted September 16, 2011 Author Share Posted September 16, 2011 Total quote including the new seal is $125. The only "part" I'm aware of is the new seal which runs $18. To me, this is worth me not having to crawl under the truck and risk it not working correctly when I'm done. (not to mention possible broken parts along the way.) At any rate, I'm not doing it until the 1st of the month. -E. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 Make sure they check the pinion yoke shaft for grooving/scoring where the seal rides. If it is, new seal and all, it'll probably start leaking again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted September 16, 2011 Author Share Posted September 16, 2011 Will do. I can promise that if it does start to leak again, the next step will be a D44. :D I just can't justify possibly spending an afternoon trying to get the drive shaft apart, and the pinion nut off all while laying under the truck, when these guys can do the same dang thing in an hour. And, IF they try to talk me in to more work on this axle, I'll simply tell them no. -E. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted September 16, 2011 Author Share Posted September 16, 2011 reading about something called a "speedy sleeve" sounds like it slips around the pinion shaft to take care of any grooves that are worn into the shaft? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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