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Aftermath of a Dead Alt.


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I just replaced my alternator and battery because I soaked my alty while driving through a lot of *deep* puddles.

 

well.

 

my wipers, lights and heat are all working nicely now, same with my new alt and battery. nice and powerful. My only problem now, is that my upshift light, my seatbelt light and buzzer, my brake warning light and all those lights in taht little area aren't coming on anymore. no more seatbelt buzzer. nothing. Even the Oil pressure and battery lights on the dash (idiot lights) that normally come on when you turn the key into the on position won't light up anymore.

 

everything else is running hunky-dory.

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Give it a little time, and see if they come back. When my alt went, and fried my battery, all sorts of weird things were going on in the dash (and the wipers, and the radio, and the heater.....). I did a roadside repair on the interstate and got it fired up but the bizzare things were still happening, especially the wipers. I had 40+ miles to drive it home (in a monsoon of a rainstorm :cry: ), and after about 20 minutes into the trip, suddenly everything sprang back to normal :nuts:

 

How long have you run it since the new installs?

 

Jeff

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Give it a little time, and see if they come back. When my alt went, and fried my battery, all sorts of weird things were going on in the dash (and the wipers, and the radio, and the heater.....). I did a roadside repair on the interstate and got it fired up but the bizzare things were still happening, especially the wipers. I had 40+ miles to drive it home (in a monsoon of a rainstorm :cry: ), and after about 20 minutes into the trip, suddenly everything sprang back to normal :nuts:

 

How long have you run it since the new installs?

 

Jeff

 

less than 20mi I can tell you that.

 

a quick run around town. never going out of 3rd gear.

 

Ill give it a bit, its sat for over a week without power/being driven. Ill give the fuses a once over too.

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well the renix computer forgets EVERYTHING every time, which is a blessing we have (but also a hex since no-body carries the equipment for it)

 

so every start up is a new thing.

 

but i have full gauges and about twice this year they have not come on (no power in the dash except the radio and lights, and then randomly about 10 minutes later all was back to normal.

 

soo i would give it some time

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if the guages aren't powering up I would check the guages fuse in the fuse block. I can't remember what color wire it provides power to.

the brake warning switch for the e-brake will be a grey wire with a red stripe, you can see where that leads you.

Since all the dash stuff seems to have stopped working I would bet that it's the guages fuse. Should be a 7.5 amp jobbie.

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if the guages aren't powering up I would check the guages fuse in the fuse block. I can't remember what color wire it provides power to.

the brake warning switch for the e-brake will be a grey wire with a red stripe, you can see where that leads you.

Since all the dash stuff seems to have stopped working I would bet that it's the guages fuse. Should be a 7.5 amp jobbie.

 

 

Ill try that. my spedo works, fuel gauge doesn't, and my instrument lights are kinda dim, but they're there.

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The comp may need to reset I would give it time. I had crazy stuff go on mine when my battery and alt went to. I wonder why they do that???

 

Cole

The RENIX computer in an '89 doesn't reset. More accurately, it doesn't need to be reset because it doesn't "learn" anything -- it automatically resets every time you turn off the ignition.

 

It also doesn't control any of the problem items mentioned. You've got plain old electrical problems.

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The comp may need to reset I would give it time. I had crazy stuff go on mine when my battery and alt went to. I wonder why they do that???

 

Cole

The RENIX computer in an '89 doesn't reset. More accurately, it doesn't need to be reset because it doesn't "learn" anything -- it automatically resets every time you turn off the ignition.

 

It also doesn't control any of the problem items mentioned. You've got plain old electrical problems.

 

 

yeah.. christ.

 

 

I was on my way home tonite, and all of the sudden, everything got reeeeel dim.

 

going through an intersection, bam. engine dies, no power.. whatsoever.

 

coasted to the side, popped the hood. first thing I did was yank the foglights that are attached directly to my battery terminals...

 

a half hr later, my grandparents show up, and agree that if it can start, they'll follow me home. I crank it over, slowly starts, but it starts. and I have lights.

 

got home ok, charging my battery right now. Could hooking up those foglights to my battery, and using a 25amp fuse inline be causing my problems?

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do you not have a switch on them? i always put relays on fog lights....

 

have u taken the alternator and battery to be tested yet?

 

not yet. Problem is they are brand freakin new. Battery is ~ 1 week old, alternator went in lastnight, brand new. no rebuilt, brand new.

 

the voltmeter tells me this, if it helps.

 

stand alone battery - 12.35v

 

start the truck and run it > 12.35v ~ 12.40v

 

stop the truck > 12.35v

 

with lights, heater and radio on > 12.v or thereabouts, with the truck running.

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You should be getting about 13.8-14.2 V with a meter off of that alternator.

 

ok, refresh my memory as to how to check the alt with a voltmeter.

 

do I put my leads on the battery cables or on the batt terminals, or should they read the same.

 

Ok now Ive just thought of something, when this all went south on me I had recently driven it through a deeep puddle, drove home. all was well, this was xmas day. Boxing day, I went and installed fog lights, direct connection to the battery for power and ground. Wednesday I noticed my wipers were a little slow and laggy, thursday, I drove 100kms highway, then another 30kms running around town. I noticed it starting slower, long crank time, dim lights, I went and drove home. got home and turned it off, tried to turn it back on and I had nothing, no power, zip. zero.

 

New battery was installed later that night. got my lights back, albeit still dim, drove out to a friends house (I still hadn't hooked my foglights back up yet) Had no heat, no fan, just dash lights, radio and headlights. Drove home, all was well, for some reason, about 5km's down the road, everything came back on, nice and reeeeally bright. Next day, same thing, everything is dim. I took CW longshot's advice, started the truck, yanked the pos cable off the battery and it stalled. So I went and searched out a new alternator, which went in wednesday evening. When I had first put the alt in, started the truck, it ran nice, bright lights and everything, so I turned it off, hooked up the foglights and left it overnight, till around 2pm today. Started it up, drove it nicely, did my running around, got home, I went to the bowling alley for a bit, and on my way home, everything started to dim badly, truck eventually died.

 

this leaves me with a possible dead alternator, a possible dead battery, no foglights ( I can return them, so who cares) and no clue what going on.

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not yet. Problem is they are brand freakin new. Battery is ~ 1 week old, alternator went in lastnight, brand new. no rebuilt, brand new.

 

the voltmeter tells me this, if it helps.

 

stand alone battery - 12.35v

 

start the truck and run it > 12.35v ~ 12.40v

 

stop the truck > 12.35v

 

with lights, heater and radio on > 12.v or thereabouts, with the truck running.

The alternator is dead. I had a new one that was DOA, too. Doesn't matter if it's new or rebuilt ... dead is dead.

 

It should read between 13.5 and 14 volts across the battery terminals with the engine running.

 

The gauges may be dead because there's a bad (or corroded) ground between the cluster and the chassis.

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not yet. Problem is they are brand freakin new. Battery is ~ 1 week old, alternator went in lastnight, brand new. no rebuilt, brand new.

 

the voltmeter tells me this, if it helps.

 

stand alone battery - 12.35v

 

start the truck and run it > 12.35v ~ 12.40v

 

stop the truck > 12.35v

 

with lights, heater and radio on > 12.v or thereabouts, with the truck running.

The alternator is dead. I had a new one that was DOA, too. Doesn't matter if it's new or rebuilt ... dead is dead.

 

It should read between 13.5 and 14 volts across the battery terminals with the engine running.

 

The gauges may be dead because there's a bad (or corroded) ground between the cluster and the chassis.

 

 

alrighty then. Ill call up carquest and get a new one post-haste

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