JOMJ87 Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 couldnt a bad ground cause the alternator not to charge also??? Cole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOMJ87 Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 The comp may need to reset I would give it time. I had crazy stuff go on mine when my battery and alt went to. I wonder why they do that??? Cole The RENIX computer in an '89 doesn't reset. More accurately, it doesn't need to be reset because it doesn't "learn" anything -- it automatically resets every time you turn off the ignition. It also doesn't control any of the problem items mentioned. You've got plain old electrical problems. Thanks for the info I never new that. I learn something everyday. I love my 2.5 its not to crazy acting. Cole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenosha Warrior Posted January 5, 2007 Author Share Posted January 5, 2007 Hrm. This thing has a hacked-in remote starter. bare wires are pretty common in my engine bay. I'm going to see what is loose, not hooked up right and what not. One thing I'm going to check. tonite, I noticed my belt was extremely tight. like, no diflection at all, that doesn't seem too right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 Hrm. This thing has a hacked-in remote starter. bare wires are pretty common in my engine bay. I'm going to see what is loose, not hooked up right and what not. My cherokee is like that. One day the whole remote starter module fell out from under the dash and got caught under my brake pedal. I think some people were a little weirded out to see a cussing redneck throwing some sort of box with a bunch of wires hanging off of it into the ditch on the side of the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenosha Warrior Posted January 5, 2007 Author Share Posted January 5, 2007 Hrm. This thing has a hacked-in remote starter. bare wires are pretty common in my engine bay. I'm going to see what is loose, not hooked up right and what not. My cherokee is like that. One day the whole remote starter module fell out from under the dash and got caught under my brake pedal. I think some people were a little weirded out to see a cussing redneck throwing some sort of box with a bunch of wires hanging off of it into the ditch on the side of the road. yeah, all that crap is still stuffed up under the dash still. Ive got a spaghetti of wires under the dash, I need to clean it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenosha Warrior Posted January 5, 2007 Author Share Posted January 5, 2007 Took the jeep down to the mechanics thismorning (right next to my parts store) He said the same thing all of ya's have. DOA alternator. Ordered a new one, it'll be here in a few hours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenosha Warrior Posted January 5, 2007 Author Share Posted January 5, 2007 Ok, puzzle time. brand new alternator. same company and everything. still not pushing out more than 12.50volts. what affects the alternator's output. What does that little plug on the top do? I spoke with a mechanic at the Jeep dealership, I was told that these alternators need a 12v current to activate the exciter. Ive checked the wire that goes on the back of the alt. as the mechanic said, it should have 12v. it does. what the christ is going on? I'm at a loss and if I can't get it figured out, I'm going to have to take it to a mechanics. :mad: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinnaevd Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 sell ur manche and buy mine. needs very little to safety says the mechanic. DAMMIT here's an idea put in a 258 and carb it, half ur electronics will hopefully go away lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 Those Delco alternators have the voltage regulator built in, so the problem has to be with the alternator. Where are you getting them? They should be able to bench test it for you. The odds are certainly against getting two bad ones in a row, but anything is possible. The other thing to check is the heavy wire that's supposed to deliver the output from the alternator into the wiring harness. I don't remember if that's a fusible link, but somehow I think it is. If it fused, it is now an open circuit. The fix is to run a new cable, preferably using something like 8-gauge or 6 gauge battery cable or welder cable, with an external 100-amp fuse from a marine supply store (actually, I've seen the fuse at Auto Zone, but they don't always have it). For starters, take your VOM and check for continuity between the two ends of that wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenosha Warrior Posted January 5, 2007 Author Share Posted January 5, 2007 sell ur manche and buy mine. needs very little to safety says the mechanic. DAMMIT here's an idea put in a 258 and carb it, half ur electronics will hopefully go away lol man, ive got too much into it now haha. I may just drive it the way it is, and dump it at the mechanics monday to let them take a look at it. anyone have any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinnaevd Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 make sure carquest is giving u the right one as well rob the carquest down here i know arent exactly "experts" at reading numbers from a book althought i will admight that they are getting better, and are still nice guys either way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenosha Warrior Posted January 5, 2007 Author Share Posted January 5, 2007 Those Delco alternators have the voltage regulator built in, so the problem has to be with the alternator. Where are you getting them? They should be able to bench test it for you. The odds are certainly against getting two bad ones in a row, but anything is possible. The other thing to check is the heavy wire that's supposed to deliver the output from the alternator into the wiring harness. I don't remember if that's a fusible link, but somehow I think it is. If it fused, it is now an open circuit. The fix is to run a new cable, preferably using something like 8-gauge or 6 gauge battery cable or welder cable, with an external 100-amp fuse from a marine supply store (actually, I've seen the fuse at Auto Zone, but they don't always have it). For starters, take your VOM and check for continuity between the two ends of that wire. you may be onto something. what wire is this. the one that is bolted to the back of the alternator? Ive got 2 wires on a plug that plug in, and then I have the big cable-like wire at the back. with the engine off I get 12.v and when its running, I still get 12v (it fluctuates a little bit) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenosha Warrior Posted January 6, 2007 Author Share Posted January 6, 2007 ahahaha! woo! Colton 1- Bitchy alt 0 I figured that I'm not missing a good night of jamming and movies at a friends house care of a crappy alt/ornery Jeep, so I packed up my stuff and took off. I have all my lights, and power, and wipers, horn, heat. all brighter, louder, faster and hotter than when I got the truck! it must have been a dead alt and just me not running the truck with the 2nd one that I got today Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 yeah...like I said...give it some time, and all systems should revert back to normal. I've no idea why, it's just the nature of the beast :) You are now A #1 certified at alternator replacement! :cheers: Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenosha Warrior Posted January 6, 2007 Author Share Posted January 6, 2007 yeah...like I said...give it some time, and all systems should revert back to normal. I've no idea why, it's just the nature of the beast :) You are now A #1 certified at alternator replacement! :cheers: Jeff A1 certified in smashing bricks with Motomaster rachets :) this got me really worked up, everything not working and all haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenosha Warrior Posted January 7, 2007 Author Share Posted January 7, 2007 Oh man. I'm stumped. Seriously. I was driving home tonite. highbeams, windsheild wipers, no heat on but I had the radio going. about 5 minutes from home (~10 miles) my lights started to dim really badly. Eventually they went out, engine was still running, but no lights, I drove through the city with no tails/heads, brakelights still worked. Pulled in the driveway, it was barely running when I got home. I turned off the truck, and as I was getting out, accidentally smacked something under the dash. my dash lights started blinking. bright as hell. So I turned on my headlights, got my lights back. this is driving me up the wall. I can go for short trips, work and back and forth to school. Eagle, you mentioned something about checking for continuity on a certain wire? Anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 The heavy-gauge wire from the back of the alternator up into the power distribution block. It should be a red 8-gauge wire coming off the alternator, then it goes into a 12-gauge blue fusible link which, IIRC, is a ring terminal that bolts to the stud on the starter relay (just behind the bettery on the passenger side of the engine compartment). What you're checking for, though, isn't a "loose" connection. A fusible link is like a non-replaceable fuse (in fact, it isn't "like" a non-replaceable fuse, that's what it is). If the circuit is overloaded, the short section of thinner-gauge wire gets hot and melts, breaking the circuit. That wire off the back of the alternator is what carries the alternator output into your electrical system. If the fusible link fused, you have no alternator, you're just driving on battery. Many people think an 8-gauge wire is too small to carry a lot of power anyway, so they bypass that with a heavier gauge cable and a real in-line fuse. To test, remove the ring terminal from the back of the alternator to isolate the wire, then use the ohm setting on a VOM (or a test light) to check for continuity from the alternator end up to where it bolts to the starter relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbhill Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 also does the battery light work when you turn the key on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenosha Warrior Posted January 7, 2007 Author Share Posted January 7, 2007 also does the battery light work when you turn the key on? battery AND oil light don't come on when I turn the key on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenosha Warrior Posted January 7, 2007 Author Share Posted January 7, 2007 also does the battery light work when you turn the key on? battery AND oil light don't come on when I turn the key on. Whoa whoa and whoa. just drove to work (sucks balls at 6am) but when I went out to start the MJ (which has been sitting since 6pm lastnight) my oil and battery lights came on when I turned the key, and my upshift and seatbelt and ebrake lights came on too. and my headlights were there, and my dashlights were bright as hell, my heat worked. And here's the kicker. it took a good long try with alot of pedal pumping to start it, slow slow crank over. I then drove less than a 1/4mi to the corner store to get some pepsi before going to work, in and out, start the mj. rolls over nice and fast. crank crank start. I'm dancing in my chair right now. I think it may have to do with all the 'searching' under the dash i did lastnight. looking for things that seemed out of place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinnaevd Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 pepsi for breakfast? lol well hopefully everything works out for you. I am kind of going threw all the same type of stuff right now with some little electrical issues, but its not my daily driver as of yet. it will be soon though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenosha Warrior Posted January 7, 2007 Author Share Posted January 7, 2007 pepsi for breakfast? lol well hopefully everything works out for you. I am kind of going threw all the same type of stuff right now with some little electrical issues, but its not my daily driver as of yet. it will be soon though I'm a call centre monkey, Sin. My desk drawer normally contains 24 cans of pop, :brows: some days I walk to work.. I drink alotta pop haha (work is a good 10kms from my house) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinnaevd Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 call centre monkey?? hmm..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenosha Warrior Posted January 7, 2007 Author Share Posted January 7, 2007 call centre monkey?? hmm..... I work in a call centre, doin T/S for Time-warner Cable's RoadRunner internet. its a semi-decent job for a H/S sutdent, and it lets me drive the MJ haha anyone here from ohio (like 75% of the site :P) that has RR (or had Comcast/Adelphia) you've probably talked to me if you've called in for Tech support haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbhill Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 so any more issues? sounds like you have a loose wire some were. and more then likely its the wire from the alt to the light on the dash which in turn tells it to charge... just convert to a 1 wire gm and be done w/ it lol. i suspect maybe the main block of wires right behind the fuse box maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now