deziped Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 Comptemplating opening up a 97 XJ booster to see if 89 valve operating rod (that be the one from pedal arm to booster} can be swapped in. Does anyone have experience with this swap? My other option to use this free booster & MC is to cut both rods and splice on the 89 rod to proper lemgth with built in adjustability (threads). I know the WJ is simplier to do, but, this booster will go in there if I move the washer jug forward about an inch. Gonna use a ratchet strap on it to preclude sudden separation. If you have experience with this share your views/opinions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroader461 Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 you can't swap the arms....tried to do that route and have it done by a professional. Its not an option. Just swap the whole booster in and modify the arm itself Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfreeman616 Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 yes it can be done, but finding somewhere to do it is the trick. i'm looking for the write up on it now. you could also do a WJ booster, which as i understand it doesn't require a rod swap. see this tread http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=26034&hilit=booster by comanche county, which has a couple other links. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deziped Posted July 28, 2011 Author Share Posted July 28, 2011 Well I opened the booster' Image Not Found Image Not Found Now I got to figure out how to remove the actuator rod. I don't know if that big black nobby looking thing is screwed in. Don't see any snap rings holding anything. Image Not Found Open to suggestions, ideas or your and expertise on this thing. Image Not Found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfreeman616 Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 sorry no first hand knowledge of it, except that i've seen the before and after of the rod being swapped by some shop. i can't find the link right now though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/ARbrakeBoosterUpgrade/BrakeBoosterUpgrade.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deziped Posted July 30, 2011 Author Share Posted July 30, 2011 There is no info in that MADXJ article that explains disassembly of the booster. All they mention is sending it out to someone who knows how to do it, but, not how to do it yourself. So when I get back home from Los Angeles I will dis-assemble that thing with a BFH or a torch to see what holds what in place. The actuator rod is coming out, it just doesn't know it yet. :fs1: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 There is no info in that MADXJ article that explains disassembly of the booster. All they mention is sending it out to someone who knows how to do it, but, not how to do it yourself. So when I get back home from Los Angeles I will dis-assemble that thing with a BFH or a torch to see what holds what in place. The actuator rod is coming out, it just doesn't know it yet. :fs1: No sheite. Was merely responding to this: sorry no first hand knowledge of it, except that i've seen the before and after of the rod being swapped by some shop. i can't find the link right now though. Go for it when you get back w. the BFH. Or whatever. Would be helpful to know your results. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deziped Posted August 8, 2011 Author Share Posted August 8, 2011 Well I'm back from Calif., so I took the BFH to the booster. Destroyed the black center piece but I now know where to find the clip that holds the rod in. It's hiding under the rubber diaphragm. Just pull the rubber out from under the center piece and you'll find the clip. Had I known that it would have been so easy to remove the actuator rod. Image Not Found The shiny thing is the clip Image Not Found Image Not Found It was just about under the yellow dot. It fell out on its own when I found it. Image Not Found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejndssn Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 :hmm: let me get this straight you are implying that one really does not have to pry open the booster to remove the actuator rod :dunno: that sounds way to easy 8) if that is so :banana: you are the :wrench: guru and sometimes a price is required to get things figured out :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deziped Posted August 9, 2011 Author Share Posted August 9, 2011 Not at all. In the 4th thread you'll see that I have already taken the booster apart. In the thread where I referenced the yellow dot what you are looking at is the rubber diaphagm minus the metal booster cover (note metal covers in background). The other pics are of whats left of the center of the booster after I battered it with a hammer. I did imply that had i known where the clip was located initially I wouldn't have had to use the BFH. Disassembly of the booster to reach the internals was easy (ref thread 4) but is considered dangerous I have heard/read. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejndssn Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 thanks for the correction :thumbsup: i'll have to find another old style booster and work it from that point so that i can continue to drive my dd and when i get ready for the swap it will just a plug and play :jump: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walkenvol Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 I'm still unclear on what happened since I don't have a brake booster out of the vehicle to compare. It appears you move the rubber sleeve with the yellow dot aside to access the metal clip that holds the rod. Is the rubber sleeve with the yellow dot inside of the enclosed metal booster housing or is it on the firewall side of the metal housing? If its on the inside of the metal housing, how is the housing seperated? Did you secure it shut with a rachet strap then bend the metal tabs back then release the pressure with the rachet strap? It appears there is a large spring inside pushing the 2 halves apart. Was it easy to compress the spring when putting the 2 halves back together? Is some form of seal needed between the 2 halves so the vacuum doesn't leak? I've always wondered exactly how those worked. Thanks for sharing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deziped Posted August 9, 2011 Author Share Posted August 9, 2011 The ruber diaphragm is on the firewall side under the metal cover. You have to work the rubber out of the slot in the black plastic center (It not really plastic, but some kinda poly stuff) to gain access to the clip. It will seal up when you put it back together and tap the cover retainers down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deziped Posted August 9, 2011 Author Share Posted August 9, 2011 Pics of 97 XJ Booster. Not to be confused with the WJ. Just thought someone may want to know whats in there. Inside of rear cover. Image Not Found View with front cover removed. The green clip retains the brake actuator rod. Much easier to remove than the 89 rod. Image Not Found 97 on left 89 on right. Image Not Found The plunger on the end of the 97 is smaller (.410) than the 89 (.500). (img][/img] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comanche County Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 Thanks for putting the interior pics of the boosters on here. Pretty cool. After doing several of these since I did the write up, I'd say the easiest way to upgrade is to cut and weld the old rod end onto the new booster. Much Faster. Just measure the distance and get it right the first time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 Thanks for putting the interior pics of the boosters on here. :agree: Great to know what's inside the various boosters, but I'd never attempt to open one up, change the arm, then use it on my rig. It's the brake system; too many unknowns unless you had the means to pressure test the booster assembly after the mod. For the HO 91-92 models it's a simple booster swap using the existing arm, but for the Renix models it's more complicated. Grinding down the flat tang on the arm seems a much safer way to do this upgrade to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deziped Posted August 10, 2011 Author Share Posted August 10, 2011 Thanks for putting the interior pics of the boosters on here. :agree: Great to know what's inside the various boosters, but I'd never attempt to open one up, change the arm, then use it on my rig. It's the brake system; too many unknowns unless you had the means to pressure test the booster assembly after the mod. For the HO 91-92 models it's a simple booster swap using the existing arm, but for the Renix models it's more complicated. Grinding down the flat tang on the arm seems a much safer way to do this upgrade to me. Your right, there are several ways to do it. I'm going to cut and thread the 97 Rod , if I can find a machinist in this rinky dink town. With a sleeve on it and jamb nuts it will be adjustable so I can kinda fine tune the length. Will have to see how it turns out. If that don't work I'll just grab a newer WJ booster and swap it out no hassel. But, maybe exposing the internals of the boosters will lead to new and innovative ideas by CC members and save them a $ or 2 restoring/modifying their MJ's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walkenvol Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 Others may disagree, but brake booster failure means considerably more force has to be applied to the brake pedal to compress the master cylinder plunger not total loss of braking capability. The least dangerous part of the brake system to me would be messing with the booster. Again, only my opinion and its open for reconsideration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejndssn Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 :hmm: i'm guessing the internals don't just swap by taking the actuator rod and diaphragm and the clip from the (green) 97xj to hold the spring in place and button it up and call it a day. just an :idea: which you may have already tried and it didn't work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigalpha Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 How does the clip come out while it's together? I have an older booster I'm disassembling but can't figure out how to remove the clip without bashing the whole assembly to pieces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigalpha Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 I got the retainer out but, for the life of me, couldn't get the 96 booster open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deziped Posted August 11, 2011 Author Share Posted August 11, 2011 Well I couldn't find anyone near me willing to cut and thread the rod so I just cut 5/8" out of the 97 rod, chamferd it & slipped a sleeve on it then welded the rod back together, then ground down the weld & slid the sleeve in place over the weld on the rod and then welded the sleeve on to the rod (little insurance). Put the 97 rod back in the 97 booster & put a ratchet strap around the booster & pulled it back together. Punched the tabs down released the ratchet strap and all is well. Its back in the MJ. Still got to run the brake lines to the 89 Pro valve & put a couple bubble flares on the MC end of it. It a snug fit, but, I didn't have to bend or cut on the firewall at all to get it in place and bolted down thanks to that 1/4" spacer they used in 97 = 00 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 I am interested in this thread too. I found this on the web.. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-part ... -brake.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deziped Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 Finally had time to finish the swap today. Made a couple bubble flares for MC lines and dropped it all in place. So a 97 XJ booster swap into an 89 is pretty easy. Cost: Booster ended up being free: brake lines $8: Can B fluid and a couple nuts about $10. Oh, and 1 destroyed 89 booster just because I wanted to look see inside it. Image Not Found No hacking on fire wall necessary Image Not Found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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