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Anyone ever tried to put a larger radiator in the front of an MJ?

or should I just relocate it into the bed?

220deg F plus is unacceptable, 35mph or above on the open road

seems to be fine feedback requested/ advice required... B...

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A properly functioning MJ cooling system is capable of cooling the engine in any situation. You have a problem with something in the system. Find it and fix it. Don't go using a 'Presidential solution' on it.

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Anyone ever tried to put a larger radiator in the front of an MJ?

or should I just relocate it into the bed?

220deg F plus is unacceptable, 35mph or above on the open road

seems to be fine feedback requested/ advice required... B...

 

Topic: question

Advice required: Piss off mate.

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I was having overheating issues in my 4.0L TJ. It was running 220-230 on the highway whenever the temps hit 90 degrees outside. Replaced the cooling system, piece by piece and performed countless flushes. Water pump, thermostat, radiator cap, hoses replaced. Installed a Griffin radiator and it does not get hot at all, even in this 115 degree heat.

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hmmm seems like CC is getting a few D-bags on here now (talking about the 2 old farts).... i havent put a bigger radiator in, but i flushed my cooling system, and installed hood vents and i never had a problem. i think prestone is what i used and i put it and and drove about 300-400 mi i think before i flushed it out. do you have a eletric fan also?

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Obviously I need to repost my question

It’s simple under everyday driving in Indiana heat (90) it runs around 200deg F, if I park it running it blows the coolant out of the radiator into, then out of the reservoir bottle, then the motor gets hotter because of loss of heat transfer

Radiator pressure tested and held 16# for almost 3hours, according to shop the tested it and preformed the flush, no major difference in cylinder compression, no missing, no water out of the exhaust, new 185 thermostat, spring present in bottom hose, new pump, three month old 2 core radiator,

Bluntly it ran cooler before I changed it (radiator) because of leaking… B…

HELP?

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hmmm seems like CC is getting a few D-bags on here now (talking about the 2 old farts)....

 

Dang! I thought about you were talking about me, till I seen Jim in there.

 

Really, my first post was kind of curt because of the minimal info given. All I still know is that he is talking about an MJ.

 

NO engine info and most important of all, if it is a 4.0 did you burp it?

 

And honestly, the two old D-bags are kind of smart, I usually listen to what they have to say.

 

As the old people say "you learn more with your mouth shut"

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:hijack:

 

Out of curiosity, what age does one change from 'young kid' to 'old fart'? Is it a slow transition, or is it a puff-of-smoke-and-flash-of-light change?

 

 

 

/still want to see bed-mounted radiator pics.

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:hijack:

 

Out of curiosity, what age does one change from 'young kid' to 'old fart'? Is it a slow transition, or is it a puff-of-smoke-and-flash-of-light change?

 

 

 

/still want to see bed-mounted radiator pics.

 

Think it is a slow transition, don't see too many old dumb asses, just young ones. Makes me believe as people get older they

 

transition from "young and dumb" to "old as the hills and twice as dusty" in a linear state. Meaning with age

 

comes wisdom.

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What year is your truck? Open or Close cooling system? I know you mentioned the 'radiator' holding pressure but if its an open system, is the pressure tank and cap in good shape? If closed what # cap do you have on the radiator? Have you cleaned out the AC condenser? Does your fan clutch work? Does your e-fan work? Does your truck have shrouds in good shape? You should not need a 185 t-stat in there, a 195 would work the same, be better for your motor, and still over heat because something else is wrong or malfunctioning in the cooling system.

 

I usually find those off the shelf, saver in a bottle, things snake oil. But after driving my folks '93 XJ and noticing it getting hot, approx 230, even after a water pump, flush, and t-stat, I tried "water wetter" and it stayed an indicated 210-220. Still a little warm IMHO but might need the radiator fins cleaned and another flush.

 

The cooling system is pretty straight forward. Pressurized hot coolant flows through a series of fins with air blowing across them, cooling the coolant and pumping it back into the motor. The coolant flow is controlled by the thermostat.

 

Your topic of "Question" surely set a few folks off. You should at least give some sort of indication into what the 'question' is in the topic line for quicker help. I actually skipped your topic several times before clicking on it because it was so vague and I assumed the information inside would be very vague.

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If it's blowing out of the pressure bottle, it's boiling. Even straight water at 13 PSI doesn't boil until around 250 degrees or so, higher at 16 PSI. If you're boiling at 220 degrees, the system obviously does NOT hold 16 PSI.

 

And when you changed the radiator, what did you fill the system with. If you used tap water instead of distilled I'm willing to bet your nice new radiator is plugged up with brown goop already.

 

Hornbrod could probably have had a bit more tact in his answer.

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Hornbrod could probably have had a bit more tact in his answer.

Yeah, he could have. :( I had just finished beating up my dog and was in a bad mood. :thwak:

 

But seriously banshee, I do apologize. And no, I don't beat up my dog. :yes:

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Still don't even know what engine is in this truck.

 

Read "pressure bottle" but that wasn't even from the OP.

 

Still haven't got a yes or no on if the system was burped.

 

Possible failed new pump?

 

Would sure like to know if it has a good pressure bottle or not.

 

FWIW, a "new" pressure bottle I purchased last winter with new cap failed. The "new" cap would not seal the new bottle,

 

put the old cap on the new bottle, works well today. "new" cap was very cheap china product.

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