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skyjacker subframe


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is anybody running the skyjacker subframe? i saw a mj with it last week, and didnt think to ask how he liked it. also he had a shop install it and i don't know how much work or what would have to be done to make it work on a mj seeing as its an xj kit. ive read that their heim joints wear out, but I'm not concerned with that. the thing i like about this lift is its a 4 link, not a radius arm, and the center section bolts in so tranny service is still easy. I'm not a rock crawler so huge flex isnt what i want, just mud and trails with alot of hyw driving and 4 mounting locations on the frame seems alot stronger than 2 as with a radius, and I'm not interested in a 3 link.

 

http://www.skyjacker.com/product.php?ProdID=8285

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Its not much different from what's under my truck except I paid about 1/3 what they want for it. IMO its a short arm lift for long arm money

 

That crossmember is a set of drop brackets with integrated braces. Compare it to RE or RCs drop brackets they aren't much different.

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As for making it fit you have to cut the extra braces off your stock control arm mounts making it like an XJ up front,then bolt it on.

 

You probably already know that none of the rear stuff will do you any good

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ya i aim the :thwak: twoards me. i just went out and looked an the rocky-road DBs on my xj and they are similar to the skyjacker except only $220 and 2 pieces. ive been looking for a place to get only the SJ DBs but their still asking $800 for the DBs/arms, it just looked better built than my rocky road ones. i wasnt too happy with the fitment of my rockyroad DBs but i may just use them.

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The Skyjacker subframe is actually decent,

it's strong, and allows longer arms than regular drop brackets.

 

More like mid length arms vs short, or long arms.

 

The Skyjacker arms themselves aren't so great, but some have adapted other arms to fit the Skyjacker subframe.

 

 

If you got the subframe cheap enough, and were able to make custom arms to fit, I think it's a pretty decent setup.

 

If you were going to buy the whole setup new ($$$!),

IMO, no way is it worth the money.

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ive been been trying to find somewhere that will just let me buy the brackets. summit racing so far is the only place that advertises the DBs/arms and they want $800 ive emailed jeepspeed and somewhere else lastnight but still no reply. anyone have any leads on just the brackets?

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ive been been trying to find somewhere that will just let me buy the brackets. summit racing so far is the only place that advertises the DBs/arms and they want $800 ive emailed jeepspeed and somewhere else lastnight but still no reply. anyone have any leads on just the brackets?

 

 

http://claytonoffroad.com/product_info. ... cts_id/110

 

 

how about you consider something that's not garbage.

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Looks like the lowers are 20 1/8" and the uppers are 15 1/4" so the lower arms are a little longer but just a few inches.

 

Most long arms are a foot or more longer then stock but really don't flex all that much more then adj arms and drop brackets. Some long arms don't flex any more the DBs,I wonder how much difference the few inches on the lower arms would make.

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ive been been trying to find somewhere that will just let me buy the brackets. summit racing so far is the only place that advertises the DBs/arms and they want $800 ive emailed jeepspeed and somewhere else lastnight but still no reply. anyone have any leads on just the brackets?

 

 

http://claytonoffroad.com/product_info. ... cts_id/110

 

 

how about you consider something that's not garbage.

 

because if you read the very first post in this topic you would of realized that i don't want a radius arm setup, or 3 link.

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http://bds-suspension.com/product?ma=7& ... =1984-2001

 

Check out the 6.5". BDS makes some good stuff, all with the "No BS Hardcore Lifetime Warranty" guarantee. If it breaks/wears out/fails, they will replace it, no questions asked.

 

They changed the layout a bit... You used to be able to get a 4.5" kit with LA's, but I can't find it now... I bet its still available, with some searching.

Rob L.

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looks good except having to remove the control arms when i do tranny services, and yes its a 4 link but only the 4 bolts for the crossmeber are holding it on, so strength wise it looks the same as the clayton minus the removeable center section and an extra $1500 (yes i understand it comes with all the extras and could probably be purchased cheaper as just brackets)

 

and rocky-road has DBs with gussets/braces behind them for $215

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Found the 4.5" LA's... Had to select the 4.5" kit, and go through the customization stuff to select a long arm upgrade:

 

http://bds-suspension.com/kit-customizer?kid=434H

 

jk_468H.jpg

 

Only drawback is there is no drop out for the trans, but realistically, all you would have to do is pull the 4 bolts out of the arms to free up the crossmember, and support the axle. Then take out the crossmember... Extra work sure, but its do-able in my book, and not that much of a hassle.

 

Rob L. :dunno:

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pay attention to the cross members. there is not one other than claytons that will bolt directly to an mj, and claytons is the only one that doesn't require that you remove the entire front axle just to drop the transmission or transfercase.

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Found the 4.5" LA's... Had to select the 4.5" kit, and go through the customization stuff to select a long arm upgrade:

 

http://bds-suspension.com/kit-customizer?kid=434H

 

jk_468H.jpg

 

Only drawback is there is no drop out for the trans, but realistically, all you would have to do is pull the 4 bolts out of the arms to free up the crossmember, and support the axle. Then take out the crossmember... Extra work sure, but its do-able in my book, and not that much of a hassle.

 

Rob L. :dunno:

 

 

plenty of hassle when you're doing a trail repair such as removing the trans pan to replace the filter after you sink the truck.

 

 

no way. those are all crappy designed crossmembers. they're nice, but there is ZERO reason you should have to drop the front axle just to work on the transmission.

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Found the 4.5" LA's... Had to select the 4.5" kit, and go through the customization stuff to select a long arm upgrade:

 

http://bds-suspension.com/kit-customizer?kid=434H

 

jk_468H.jpg

 

Only drawback is there is no drop out for the trans, but realistically, all you would have to do is pull the 4 bolts out of the arms to free up the crossmember, and support the axle. Then take out the crossmember... Extra work sure, but its do-able in my book, and not that much of a hassle.

 

Rob L. :dunno:

 

 

plenty of hassle when you're doing a trail repair such as removing the trans pan to replace the filter after you sink the truck.

 

 

no way. those are all crappy designed crossmembers. they're nice, but there is ZERO reason you should have to drop the front axle just to work on the transmission.

 

And what part of that is impeding the trans pan?

 

It seems as if your in the mood of arguing just to argue, so I don't even know why I'm bothering.

 

Rob L.

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pay attention to the cross members. there is not one other than claytons that will bolt directly to an mj, and claytons is the only one that doesn't require that you remove the entire front axle just to drop the transmission or transfercase.

 

well, that is wrong. Like Adam said, RK makes one. plus that one is 3 or 4 link. far better than y-links as well.

 

but I'm with Rob on the BDS kit as well. the only thing i don't like about it is the lack of flex joints in the lower arms.

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Enough people have had issues with the fit of RK drop brackets that I wouldn't but any of their products.

 

And the issue with the trans pan is the width of the cross member. Its already tough to do with a stock cross member. Not impossible, but more things in the way.

 

Point is, its a poor design if you have to drop the axle to work on the trans too

 

edit:

 

fixed wording/grammar...stupid auto correct on cell phone.

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I would not run my entire suspension off 4 bolts per side like the BDS pictured above.

 

IMO, if going 4-link LA, you should plate the unibody, and add through-frame bolts as well. Minimum 8-9 bolts per side.

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