jcComanche86lb Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 I've been looking into this on youtube and the results seem really surprising. It may not look like a professional paint job but it does look pretty dang good. For someone like me who doesn't have access to a paint booth it seems like a good alternative. The thought of being able to paint my comanche in the back yard and not get the neighbors cars covered with overspray sounds pretty good. I may try it in the near future and post the results. Has anyone tried this yet? here is a link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Warrior Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 You'd better have arms that put Popeye to same :rotf: I think its been done by a few folks around here, but I can't think of any names. I think you could save some sanding time by using the 'Professional' grade spray cans. But they are $6-8 a can and one can would probably be enough for one panel. It would add up very fast. I would suggest using a respirator as well, it is powerful stuff. If you want to do the entire truck, I think you should first bug bomb the yard for a few days before hand. Then create a make shift paint booth to keep crap from landing on the wet paint. Con a buddy into helping you sand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edman2007 Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 I did my XJ with Krylon fusion. Prep work is key to make it look good. mine is flat tan so i got away pretty easy. if you decide to go with any kind of gloss sand like no other. and get a little handle that goes on the spray cans, makes life much easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cody4359 Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 ive rattle canned a few trucks before and it was so-so. ive seen i mini bike painted with gloss black and flames then clear coated and i though it was a real paint job, but he did a ton of prep work and wet sanding. to me, now that I'm a little older than my primer red, sitting on the bumstops ranger, the paint does add up fairly quickly to the cost of a gallon of real automotive paint, maybe you can talk to yout neighbors or friends friend and see if anyone has a garage/compressor you can use. now you can paint a rig with a bomb can but with my experince/ post paint sanding/clearing, i would look to find somewhere that i could use a real paint gun. on the other hand i just saw a topic of somebody painting their mj on here with wally world olive drab house paint, from the pics (which definatly won't show flaws) it seem good. are you wanting a flat paint job, or shiny paint?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcComanche86lb Posted March 5, 2011 Author Share Posted March 5, 2011 I plan on a flat black and hopefully skip the wet sanding step. I have a pneumatic random orbital sander so hopefully that will cut down on prep time but I'm sure I will have to eat plenty of spinach to get it done. I did try some rattle can camo paint on the fenders but it was nearly twenty bucks a fender. I seen a bunch of guys using rustoleum and a paint roller on youtube I'm hoping to keep streaks to a minimum that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcComanche86lb Posted March 5, 2011 Author Share Posted March 5, 2011 Oh yeah thanks Comanche addict I never would have thought to bug bomb the yard before hand that's why I love this forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 Oh yeah thanks Comanche addict I never would have thought to bug bomb the yard before hand that's why I love this forum. My boss is an old self taught body man, and he always says not to paint outside. His trick of the trade was that he made a paint booth out of his garage on the cheap. He took some lumber, squared out the bottom couple feet of the garage door, then put in furnace filters. He had a window, so when he was getting ready to paint, he closed the door down on to the filter frame, put a box fan in the window to pull out the fumes and take the dust out, and the filters kept any dust coming in from the outside. I planned on doing the same, except put the fan in the end of filter frame as I don't have a window. Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbrand Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 If you want some other pointers, here are a few sites that may give you a hand. http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master ... paint.html http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/sho ... art=1&vc=1 I've heard the trick with rolling it on is to thin it waaaaayyy down, so it's like milk. If you leave it thick, it'll never dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcComanche86lb Posted March 5, 2011 Author Share Posted March 5, 2011 Awesome, thanks for the links that's exactly what I needed. So even though I'm gonna use flat black I should still wet sand between coats right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 I painted my sand rail with Rustoleum but I bought quarts and shot it with my HVLP gun. Turned out pretty good. Have you priced automotive paints? industrial single stage shouldn't cost any more then you would pay for the Rustoleum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcComanche86lb Posted March 5, 2011 Author Share Posted March 5, 2011 Havnt looked into it yet but that would kinda put me back at square one without a way to spray the paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 http://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-high ... 47016.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcComanche86lb Posted March 5, 2011 Author Share Posted March 5, 2011 Well now I'm all mixed up, if I do the prep work and make a makeshift paint booth there's really no reason why I can't spray it. :hmm: I guess the hardest part sometimes is convincing myself I can do it. Cool thanks for all the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 Really there is no paint that's easier to spray then flat/matte black so its a good one for a first paint job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir_Brando Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 viewtopic.php?f=2&t=11562 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirteatr717 Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 Prep it right and use nice even spray strokes ;) I've been slowly turning my truck flat black haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Sam Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 Shooting with a paint gun is really the only way to go when repainting a vehicle. Cheaper than spray cans per unit cost, and the results are way better. Like I said in that other thread, this what $15 of paint will get ya(just the hood): That was a single stage acrylic enamel, little buffing after shooting it and your golden. I really like base/clear, better color depth, easier to spray for good results(base is just about impossible to mess up, clear shoots smooth easier, but you have to be careful of runs because you can't see how thick it is) This is a base clear XJ I did this summer: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubSonic Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 What brand of paint did you use on the green XJ (base/clear combo)? It looks great! Is it the same as the single stage on the hood or do you prefer a different brand when doing base and clear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpnjim Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 Wow, not having the Jeep badge there changes the look WAY more than I thought it would. :thumbsup: Nice work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Sam Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 What brand of paint did you use on the green XJ (base/clear combo)? It looks great! Limco line by BASF. The base is cheap, but the clear is expensive, hence why the single stage is attractive for budget minded repaints. The single stage paints will be cheaper than rattle cans, and give better results. The base/clear will give professional quality results, but cost a ton more. For $100 you could repaint a vehicle with matching single stage paint, $100 will get you about half a vehicles worth of clear coverage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2360 Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 Just throwing in another perspective. I painted my truck with rust-o. I mixed black with blue to get the dark shade. I bought more paint than I needed, gallon of blue and a gallon of black. Get some mineral spirits to thin the paint. I thinned the paint quite a bit, almost thin like water. One good paint brush. Masking tape. I also bought a can of exterior clear (water based) stuff for wood. Unfortunately the final coat of clear sort of wrecked the paint job cause it didn't smooth out like the thinned rust-o. Just food for thought. :wrench: PS: make sure you put your grill back in the right way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 I bet that looks terrible up close. You cannot brush paint or roll paint on your car and even be in the same ball park with sprayed paint. Here is a fork lift I painted up close,you cannot do this with a brush. here's another one i did both of these trucks were done with cheap single stage from Napa a neighbor liked that paint so much he had me shoot his goldwing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Sam Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 Here's some single stage Nason low VOC paint: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 that looks nice :thumbsup: ,people don't realize what kind of finish you can get out of single stage,a decent paintjob doesnt have to cost alot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Sam Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 that looks nice :thumbsup: ,people don't realize what kind of finish you can get out of single stage,a decent paintjob doesnt have to cost alot. Nope it sure doesn't, there's more to the skill of the operator than the paint. But I do have to admit some paints just shoot smoother and nicer than others, and generally the more you pay the better the spray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now