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D30 full and or mini spool


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I've been running Lincoln Lockers in the front and rear of my YJ for several years now, no problems with the stock axles at all. It's actually easier on axleshafts than lockrights and other auto lockers because there is no shear force of a sudden lockup, which snaps shafts. Also no onroad driving quirks as there is no locking/unlocking depending on throttle position through curves. No sudden lane changes often associated with auto lockers.

 

Simply put, very predictable and driveable onroad in both ends if you have a disconnect mechanism on the front axle (CAD or locking hubs). Unbeatable traction offroad.

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Nobody makes a mini or full spool for a D30.

 

I ran a mini spool in the rear of mine for a couple months. I didn't like it. Chirping tires, and felt like the hole truck was gonna snap in half while turning. Plus it eats tires up. JMO

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If you fill the spider gears up as well as weld them together.. they will not come apart :brows: Since you have a VD housing shouldn't be but so bad for street driving. I say do it :wrench:

 

Lock right 200 plus

 

Powertrax 300+

 

LIncoln locker 5 dollars in welding rod... and a six pack

 

Watching your friends say that won't work and proving them wrong .....

 

 

PRICELESS

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I gotta tell you. If you are driving this rig on the street, I would seroiusly reconsider the use of a spool in the rear and FORGET ABOUT IT in the front!!!

If you will take my advice, save your money and buy Lock-rites, Aussie lockers or EZ lockers.

 

Its will become a trail only rig and even then you will quickly tire of the inability to make tight turns.

 

Thjis is the BIGGEST REASON no one carries a D30 spool, it is primairly a front axle and very few spoll the front od a D30.

 

BTW, a lincoln locker, done correctly is only as strong as its carrier, reguardless of what axle it is done to.

 

CW

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I gotta tell you. If you are driving this rig on the street, I would seroiusly reconsider the use of a spool in the rear and FORGET ABOUT IT in the front!!!

I drive mine on the road all the time, even commuting to downtown St. Louis in rain and shine, no problems. I've ridden/driven some jeeps with auto lockers and the banging and sudden lane changes of the locker locking/unlocking is downright nerve racking. Spools/lincoln lockers are smooth as glass predictable onroad. I've never had excessive tire wear from it, what slight increase there is in rear tire coning is negated through a good rotation schedule.

 

Its will become a trail only rig and even then you will quickly tire of the inability to make tight turns.

That's what the posilok is for, turning is a lot easier in 3wd. Although I often leave mine engaged and add a few points to the tightest trail turns.

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Its will become a trail only rig and even then you will quickly tire of the inability to make tight turns.

That's what the posilok is for, turning is a lot easier in 3wd. Although I often leave mine engaged and add a few points to the tightest trail turns.

 

yeah the posi-lok axle was the only reason i was considering a full front lock.

 

i will be running a dana44 rear axle, which they have both mini and full spools for.... havent decided which one yet. obviously fulls are more expensive and stronger... but do they require re-setting up of the gears? becuase i am definately NOT messing with that. ill have to pay a shop to do anything with gear setup.

 

pingpong... i love your humor. haha. and i wish i could pay the local 4x4 guy in 6packs. (or buy 6packs for that matter...) ROOTBEER!!! image_209027.gif

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Its will become a trail only rig and even then you will quickly tire of the inability to make tight turns.

CW

 

Amen to that! I got my hands on a used lockright to replace the minispool in my front Dana 44.

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unty Hunter I've never had excessive tire wear from it, what slight increase there is in rear tire coning is negated through a good rotation schedule.

 

Its will become a trail only rig and even then you will quickly tire of the inability to make tight turns.

That's what the posilok is for, turning is a lot easier in 3wd. Although I often leave mine engaged and add a few points to the tightest trail turns.

 

You most defineately will have increased tire wear. think about it, you HAVE TO!! The inside tire is spinning at the same speed as the out side tire, yet its turning a smaller arch. That squeal you hear in most every turn is TIRE WEAR!!! Sure rotating will EVEN our the wear, but your only kidding your self to think it is slowing it down.

 

As for the front, the posi lock will make it driveable. BUT if you need to accellorate HOLD ON!!! it will PULL you big time into oncoming traffic!! Yes this is experience talking!!!

 

I would just hate to see you guys do something this drastic only to find it unsafe/undriveable. Some of the guys on here have "been there and done that" the others can learn from us!!

 

CW

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As for the front, the posi lock will make it driveable. BUT if you need to accellorate HOLD ON!!! it will PULL you big time into oncoming traffic!! Yes this is experience talking!!!

 

CW

In 2wd there is NO pull in any direction from the front end when the disco is disengaged. When in 3wd on the road, the pull isn't bad, very driveable and your description of being pulled into oncoming traffic is an exaggeration IMO.

 

I would just hate to see you guys do something this drastic only to find it unsafe/undriveable. Some of the guys on here have "been there and done that" the others can learn from us!!

 

CW

I've been there and done that when it comes to the locked front end, still driving it on a regular basis after 2-3 years or more welded. Only difference being I had a manual vacuum switch from an SJ to operate the disconnect instead of a cable.

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Its will become a trail only rig and even then you will quickly tire of the inability to make tight turns.

CW

 

Amen to that! I got my hands on a used lockright to replace the minispool in my front Dana 44.

 

 

Why not just go hydro-assist?

 

 

I'm thinking I can do mine for about $100.

 

 

You could use BrettM's setup and come in under $100 (for the parts). I know you'd need to spend some money to get everything welded...

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Bounty,

 

Not trying to offend and there are certainly no hard feelings.

 

You keep saying your locked in the front but you have a disco. There is a BIG DIFFERENCE there.

 

Of coarse driving with the front locked will only pull in the direction of travel. just like if you try to hard ACCELORATE with the axle disco'd (3WD) you WILL be pulled into oncoming traffic. Normal driving, non agressive, with the disco not engaged (3WD) will drive fairly normally. When you do engage the front, it will be hard to steer in corners and you will have accelorated tire wear. These are just plain physical facts.

 

Again, no offence meant.

I just want the guys who have no idea what they are in for, if they try this. An idea of how this will adversly effect their trucks. What you or I can "deal" with it in our rigs, thats not quite the same as driving normally. I just want them to know that they will also need to "deal" with it in theirs.

 

CW

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Bounty,

 

Not trying to offend and there are certainly no hard feelings.

 

You keep saying your locked in the front but you have a disco. There is a BIG DIFFERENCE there.

That's what we're all talking about here, it wouldn't be a consideration without some means of disconnecting at least one axleshaft while onroad.

 

No offense taken, we're just on opposite sides when it comes to this subject.

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yeah theres no way i would consider a full locker in the front without a disconnect axle.

 

and i have a PT case not a 242... i won't be in 4x4 on the road. so we don't have to worry about pull then right/

 

there won't be any pull in 2wd right?

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Correct, no pull in 2wd with the front disco'd.

CORRECT, No pull in 2WD.

 

Actually there would be no pulling in 2WD even if the axle WAS engaged, it would just bind and skid the inside tire in corners.

 

The pulling comes from the 100% traction to only ONE of the front tires when you shift into 4WD. The pulling becomes VERY noticeable when the traction is different for the rear axle compaired to the front. IE rear axle on ice while front is on clear pavement. Because the front axle steers, it will pull in the direction it gets the most traction in.

 

CW

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Its will become a trail only rig and even then you will quickly tire of the inability to make tight turns.

CW

 

Amen to that! I got my hands on a used lockright to replace the minispool in my front Dana 44.

 

 

Why not just go hydro-assist?

 

 

I'm thinking I can do mine for about $100.

 

 

You could use BrettM's setup and come in under $100 (for the parts). I know you'd need to spend some money to get everything welded...

 

 

Hydro assist may help with turning the front tires when they bind (which happens a LOT when the traction is good), but it won't help with the fact that even when I get the tires turned, the truck still wants to go straight in the sloppier stuff. I hate doing 3 or 5 point turns.

 

An automatic drop-in locker costs under $300 (used are even cheaper) and when you shift into 2wd, the locker lets go and you can turn no-problemo. Plus, don't forget that retaining the CAD means that you're retaining the little 260 U-joints (unless you go get 95 YJ shafts which would have 297s and the CAD). I personally would get a used locker and upgrade to 297/760 joints and shafts.

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