maddzz1 Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 I have read that some of the after market, straight lower control arms will hit where the shock mounts too on the axle and will require some grinding of this part on the axle. Does this happen with all the straight control arms or just some? This will be a 4.5" lift. Also, I bought some lift parts from someone local. After buying I noticed that it is the RE HD trac bar bracket but he has the regular trac bar (the one with the heim) instead of the HD trac bar. He gave me a new heim cause the one on their is warn out, I'm thinking its warn so quick because hes using with the HD bracket which is double share so the bolt is side to side instead of top to bottom. Would you just use this or sell this trac bar and get the HD trac bar? I'm leaning towards the HD bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 all i know is buy adjustable lower arms. all the 4' or so fixed ones ive seen never postion the axle center under the front. plus it gives you the option of throwing a spacer in there no worries. also mine hits on the mount part you are talking about and they are bent, not straight. i thought about grinding but 4.5 lift still flexes pretty good so i don't see that little extra doing THAT much for you id also ditch that bar and go for the other but thats just me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddzz1 Posted January 14, 2011 Author Share Posted January 14, 2011 After reading REs site it looks like I can keep the trac bar and just buy the threaded rod and HD trac bar end and swap them. But I may just sell the bar I have and replace the whole thing. For what the parts I need cost I could give someone a good deal on the bar I have and pay the difference and come out even and give someone else a good deal at the same time. I have been gathering parts for a while. Right now I have 4.5" Hell Creek packs, Re 4.5" coils and fixed upper arms, the trac bar and bracket mentioned above, and some JKS quik discos. Just need the lower arms and shocks. I'm finally getting close Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 The straight arms shouldn't hit till you get to 6" of lift unless you run DBs its not the best idea but you can run stock arms up to 5" without hitting so any style aftermarket arm should be fine at 4.5" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkbruin Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 The straight arms shouldn't hit till you get to 6" of lift unless you run DBs its not the best idea but you can run stock arms up to 5" without hitting so any style aftermarket arm should be fine at 4.5" Anything over 3" you need adjustable to set caster and avoid death wobble... it has nothing to do with tire clearance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy21669 Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 After reading REs site it looks like I can keep the trac bar and just buy the threaded rod and HD trac bar end and swap them. But I may just sell the bar I have and replace the whole thing. For what the parts I need cost I could give someone a good deal on the bar I have and pay the difference and come out even and give someone else a good deal at the same time. I have been gathering parts for a while. Right now I have 4.5" Hell Creek packs, Re 4.5" coils and fixed upper arms, the trac bar and bracket mentioned above, and some JKS quik discos. Just need the lower arms and shocks. I'm finally getting close I could use a track bar...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 I'm assuming we're talking about this area of contact? at full droop my WJ arms were touching that little lip on the axle. was no biggie at all to grind off an inch. got a not-insignificant amount of further droop. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 The straight arms shouldn't hit till you get to 6" of lift unless you run DBs its not the best idea but you can run stock arms up to 5" without hitting so any style aftermarket arm should be fine at 4.5" Anything over 3" you need adjustable to set caster and avoid death wobble... it has nothing to do with tire clearance. I drove my MJ for over a year at 5" on stock arms with no problems. I also know a guy that ran a ZJ at 5" on stock arms with no issues. The RRO 5" kit doesn't even come with lower arms and I've never heard of death wobble with their kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddzz1 Posted January 14, 2011 Author Share Posted January 14, 2011 Pete, that is exactly what I was referring too. Do all the straight arms hit at full droop? Jimmy, If I decide to sell I will PM you. It is the bar for 3.5" to 4.5" lift and I have a new heim joint to replace the one thats on there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Most straight arms are made offset on one end to give more clearance so they shouldn't hit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy21669 Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Pete, that is exactly what I was referring too. Do all the straight arms hit at full droop? Jimmy, If I decide to sell I will PM you. It is the bar for 3.5" to 4.5" lift and I have a new heim joint to replace the one thats on there. Thanks sir! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 Pete, that is exactly what I was referring too. Do all the straight arms hit at full droop? I wouldn't choose my arms based primarily on that aspect. it takes 10 seconds with a grinder or sawzall to trim it up. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddzz1 Posted January 15, 2011 Author Share Posted January 15, 2011 Pete, that is exactly what I was referring too. Do all the straight arms hit at full droop? I wouldn't choose my arms based primarily on that aspect. it takes 10 seconds with a grinder or sawzall to trim it up. :thumbsup: I think I'm gonna go with RE (very expensive) or RC (I can order thru Tom at Hell Creek). I'm thinkin I may sell my fixed uppers and get upper adj's too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 Ive heard a lot of bad things about RE's arms,apparently their bushings are junk. I went with RC adjustable arms from Hell Creek and haven't had any problems with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddzz1 Posted January 15, 2011 Author Share Posted January 15, 2011 Ive heard a lot of bad things about RE's arms,apparently their bushings are junk. I went with RC adjustable arms from Hell Creek and haven't had any problems with them. Thanks, that helps with my decision. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 I'm assuming we're talking about this area of contact? at full droop my WJ arms were touching that little lip on the axle. was no biggie at all to grind off an inch. got a not-insignificant amount of further droop. :D I used aftermarket (Crown) WJ LCAs and they didn't require any grinding. They must have rounded off the LCA ends a little more? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 I didn't have to grind off anything. I did cause it's slightly better. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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