BARILLMS Posted November 21, 2006 Share Posted November 21, 2006 I'll be running about 6" of lift with RE coils. Trying to decide what to do for the steering. Already have a drip pitman arm. I want to upgrade the steering, possibly thinking about using the ZJ V8 drag link and a heavy duty Big Datty tie rod? Or.. option 2: Upgradingn the entire unit with a bolt on replacement drag link and knuckle to knuckle tie rod. The Currie I'm told is good, but $400 is steep. I like the Rustys' $270 price tag? Is the Rusty's steering any good? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted November 21, 2006 Share Posted November 21, 2006 rusty's steering sucks from what I've heard. try jcroffroad.com at that height though you're probably maxing out the TRE's Might want to consider something custom with heims, or some form of high steer or crossvoer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOMJ87 Posted November 21, 2006 Share Posted November 21, 2006 I am throwing around an idea for down the road that involves takeing Some DOM and big TREs and creating my own but when I do it I am going to ream the nuckles from the top to help the steering...Might want to look into this. If pingpong chimes in I believe he is the one that showed me some pics of it and explained it to me. Plus he is great at fab work. Cole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ORCA Posted November 21, 2006 Share Posted November 21, 2006 I've heard the same about most of rusty's stuff that he builds...For this reason only i'd stay away from his product. I just purchased an entire ZJ steering set up, and it's definetly bigger. Best part is that you can install it all yourself with no drilling or reaming. The entire set up cost me about $250+tax. I've seen nice beefy set ups out there for alittle more than that. It really comes down to tire size. If you plan on keeping the dana30 and running large tires, then i'd recommend spending a few extra bucks and getting an aftermarket set up. :cheers: I really wish I saw this before I get my ZJ set up :roll: : http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/mer ... ry_Code=S6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted November 21, 2006 Share Posted November 21, 2006 OK I have tried several different steering setups, and I wil weigh in on what I know. Rusty's sucks huge donkey parts :eek: Hard to adjust, and easily bent. If you end up wanting his hiem style setup... you can build your own for about a third the price using better quality parts. The stock ZJ parts are jst thatr stock. I would say they are good for up to 32's depending on your wheeling style. Then there is Terra flexes knuckle conversion w the aluminum links. The knucle is great, but requires a lil bit of fab work, and the aluminum links suck even bigger donkey parts. The center link bends like it is made out of stock metal and uses the same weak TRE's as stock. The fab works requires you to remove and weld in longer Sway bar mounts, as well as trac bar mount mods. BTW I have this set up using !ton chevy TRE's with 1.5x.25 DOM :D I have heard that Currie's setup is beef, but again uses stock size TRE's The JCR set-up looks very close to the one I have on Casper (xj on f150 axles) Not including the DOM You can make this setup for around 60 bucks, by the time you figure in your DOM and rod ends you will have around 100 bucks(maybe a touch more) Then there is the GOFERIT.com over the knuckle kit, Last time I looked at this kit, it was under 20 bucks for the bushings. For a cheap setup, this and a Junkyard ZJ steering setup is probrably the best bang for the buck. Remember You get what you pay for, and not paying attention to where your steeing is... wil lead you to go through many set-ups like I have :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted November 21, 2006 Share Posted November 21, 2006 When I upgrade my steering I likely will go with a JCR style DOM setup and try to go OTK with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bounty Hunter Posted November 21, 2006 Share Posted November 21, 2006 If the stock beef will work for you, consider a draglink from a RHD XJ and mount it and the draglink above the steering arms with tapered inserts from www.goferitoffroad.com . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BARILLMS Posted November 24, 2006 Author Share Posted November 24, 2006 I've made up my mind. I liked th idea of heim ends and I like the overall beef of the BULLETPROOF Steering, you can flip it over the knuckle if you like with little mods and seems very stout, not to mention the price is pretty good too. I'd have to say the RockKrawler kit would be my second choice. At 6" of lift, and long arms... huge droop. The heims won't max out and bind like rod ends do. The Krawler kit is made from solid stock, but I like this better: www.bulletproofsteering.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted November 24, 2006 Share Posted November 24, 2006 man, I really like that trackbar they have at bulletproof. They might get my cash when I finally buy an adjustable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drahcir495 Posted November 24, 2006 Share Posted November 24, 2006 Anyone try, or have an opinion on the X-factor steering set-up at http://www.rockkrawler.com ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TIE-ROD- ... 3557QQrdZ1 LOOKs identicle the my JCR set up I have on the TJ!!! CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DansGreyMj Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 what about the poison spyder kit http://www.spydercustoms.com/index2.php Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BARILLMS Posted November 25, 2006 Author Share Posted November 25, 2006 For $330 isn't bad for the basic "Trail Proof" BulletProof steering considering the high misalignment rod ends used are $80 each. Yes the "Rock Proof" is alot more, but I don't need all that... I'm not a rock crawler. That 1 ton on ebay doesn't look to bad either, thanks for the link!! I don't want to have to mess with removing my knuckles to take them to a machine shop and pay for reaming out the holes, not to mention the time to take apart and reinstall, and reaming the pitman too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BARILLMS Posted November 25, 2006 Author Share Posted November 25, 2006 what about the poison spyder kit http://www.spydercustoms.com/index2.php That Spyder kit uses the stock drag link?? If you're going to do that, you might as well go get a V8 ZJ set up from the junk yard for dirt cheap and gusset it at home just like they do. Not to change subjects but, I keep hearing good things about the JKS trac bars and the Rubicon HD trac bars too. They said on another site the JKS track bar is best out there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 I have been running the RE HD's for a few yrs now... and now problems ever. I have looked at the JKS stuff, and it appears to be about the same. Its all personal preferance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 should one be worried about all this for 32s with 6"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rokhound Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 should one be worried about all this for 32s with 6"? My thought to that is do you want to build it right the first time and what do you plan to do with it. Drive around town and have one of those pretty boy toys or do you want one to go playing off road with. Also my thought is if you built her strong the first time you might not have to worry about it breaking. I mean we are taking about the steering. Just my thoughts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 My thought to that is do you want to build it right the first time and what do you plan to do with it. Drive around town and have one of those pretty boy toys or do you want one to go playing off road with. Also my thought is if you built her strong the first time you might not have to worry about it breaking. I mean we are taking about the steering. Just my thoughts ....i bought a jeep. not a chubby i mean chevy. i wanna wheel. but we've wheeled Tims XJ on 33s and bent steering arms but it wasnt undriveable. i was just wondering if i'd be able to wheel moderately with the stock stuff until $$ allows for upgrades.. we all know, "finished for now" is never gonna last. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 wether or not stock parts survive wheeling is entirely dependent on the type of wheeling and driver you are Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted November 26, 2006 Share Posted November 26, 2006 wether or not stock parts survive wheeling is entirely dependent on the type of wheeling and driver you are mmk so its not going to last long then. we have the mentality that "its a jeep. it WILL get out, and thats whoevers driving's job to make sure it doesnt get stuck." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BARILLMS Posted November 26, 2006 Author Share Posted November 26, 2006 32s w/ 6"... huh? We're talking about good steering options for the buck. It doesn't matter it you have 235s, when your stock tie rod hits a rock or stump and gets a tweak in it, it's just a matter of time before it folds, bends or completely snaps. Have you looked at a stock tie rod lately? They are tiny and need upgraded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted November 26, 2006 Share Posted November 26, 2006 should one be worried about all this for 32s with 6"? Some people say anything above 4" you should address the steering. I can tell you this, at my 6+ lift I am maxing out the TRE's every time I flex the suspention. The more I do it the faster I wear out the joint, the faster it breaks. I actually limit my articulation in the front with my stock steering linkage. I would be swapping it NOW, if I seriously wheeled this rig!! CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BARILLMS Posted November 26, 2006 Author Share Posted November 26, 2006 I hear that! I was maxing out my TREs w/ 4.5" lift at max droop passenger side. I bent a stock tie rod while barely moving on a tiny stump I didn't see and almost couldn't drive home. If you don't replace the entire steering with a ZJ V8 set up, at least replace the stock tie rod with a heavy duty "Big Daddy" rod or another similar upgrade. It's only $80 for one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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