CWLONGSHOT Posted October 28, 2006 Share Posted October 28, 2006 Here is my delima... I am now at the point where I need to address my axles on the MJ. I most of you know its a 6cyl AW4 on 33x10.5x15's with 3:55 gears in the stock HP disco D30 and D35 axles. My thought for the rear axle: I do not want a 8.8 as I drag the one on my TJ on about everything and don't much like that. Plus the width plays a larger part in the MJ as rim offsets are more critical and I already have my tars and rims. A D44 IS a good strong option and I can have one in about 15mins if I choose to go that way. I also ALREADY have a master rebuilding kit for a D44 as well as setup bearings. A Super 35 is a strong possibility. I have a buddie that has one in his 88YJ on 37" tars. Its not broken for MANY miles of super hard trails. In all reality this truck is not going to see super hard trails, its WB and overhangs are just TOO long. But I would wheel it more with stronger axles and proper gears. A buddie has offered me a 8.25 axle for next to nothing. I am unsure if its a 27 or 29 spline. I do not see the sense in building a 27 when 29's are so plentiful. traction devices are a bit more as well as gears but now enough to make too much difference. Set-up fees will be about the same. My thought for the Front axle: The factory HIPD30 will be just fine, nothing stronger is necessary. I have three complete HPD 30's, and one carrier with complete 4:10 gears. One D30 is a non-disco w 3:55 gears, the other is also a disco with 3:07 gears and the last is a disco w/3:55's its currently under the MJ. :D I could just look for another complete front w/4:10 already installed. OR I could have SVE put the 4:10's in one of the D30 I already own. I am leaning to 4:10's as I have the AW4 auto. Costs: To go with the D44, I am figuring I'll have about a $1325 cost. Considering the D44 is only usable for the housing and axles. I would need a new carrier($400 for a Tru-Track) gears ($175), complete Brakes, including drums($150), and gears set up (250-300). Not to mention the initial cost of the axle ($200). Stay with my D35 but build a Super 35, I'm figuring that will run me about $1475. I'll have the product cost (+/-1000), gears (175) and SVE's set up fees for the gears (250-300). Brakes on my D35 are new including drums. BUT I'll still have a D35, but better ground clearance. To build the 8.25, This one will run me almost $1400 bucks. I am unsure about the brakes. So I have to assume a complete rebuild ($150) Traction device is a bit more ($450), gears also a bit more ($ 200), Master rebuilding kit ($175) Set up of the gears again a constant for all axles ($250-300) Plus the cost of the axle itself, say $100. Front axle, If I buy another one I'll have 250-300 cost for purchase and I am done. (I'll install) If I have SVE Performance set up the gears, I'll have about the same cost but an axle I am familiar with. I haven't mentioned any costs associated in the installation of the axles them selves or any of the welding that will be required. That's because I will handle all that my self here at home. So there is no actual out of pocket fees associated. What would YOU do??? Help me spend some of my money!!! CW[/b] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 28, 2006 Share Posted October 28, 2006 Personally, I would do the Dana 44 and finds a Dana 30 with 4.10 gears in them. By the way, the 8.8 doesn't hang down any lower than a Dana 44, but it's a bit wider at the base. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted October 28, 2006 Share Posted October 28, 2006 I think it hangs a bit lower... I could be useful and pop the covers on my D44 and my 8.8 and measure from the carrier centre-line to the lip; but I won't. But the 8.8 definatly has a wider base... I'd go with the D44 or the 8.8. 8.8 can run spacers to correct the width. You can get a factory 4.10/disk brake/LSD one easily enough... The stupid35 kit is a REALLY bad idea, IMHO. And I hate the 8.25. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted October 28, 2006 Author Share Posted October 28, 2006 The 8.8 DEFINEATELY hangs lower, I have measured, the damn thing is almost D60 SIZED!!! Like I said I have one in my TJ. Its going to be one of these three D44, D35 (SUPER) or the 8.25 chry. CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 28, 2006 Share Posted October 28, 2006 I went out and remeasured and got ~5.25" for my 44 and ~5.5" for my 8.8 Maybe the TJ one measures a bit lower since I imagine it's rotated up more than an MJ would? Dunno. :dunno: If I was sticking with 4.10s, then the 8.8 is hard for me to pass up. I can get one for $125 (complete and with good disk brakes) but 300 is a more common cost across the country, $100 or whatever it is for spacers, and $300 for a luchbox locker (or get the factory posi). Total cost for me would be under $250 (if I went factory posi), but figuring the axle costs more and the locker is desired, that totals $700. But since you're dead set against the 8.8, then my vote is still for building a Dana 44. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted October 28, 2006 Share Posted October 28, 2006 Any thoughts on a Toy axle? I'm not sure how the width is next to an MJ axle, but the strength is there, as are gears and lockers, not to mention the drop-in third members. As well, many are geared at 4:10. Just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 I would go with the Dana 44. Since you don't want to consider the 8.8 (and I agree with your reasons, don't get me wrong), it's the only logical choice. IMHO the Super 35 is an option only if you can't find anything else, AND if you truss it -- which adds another few hundred $$$ to the equation. Plus the D44 has bigger brakes than the D35. [i sure do wish you'd stop calling tires "tars", though. Heck, even down south where they say it that way they spell it right.] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted October 29, 2006 Author Share Posted October 29, 2006 Any thoughts on a Toy axle? I'm not sure how the width is next to an MJ axle, but the strength is there, as are gears and lockers, not to mention the drop-in third members. As well, many are geared at 4:10. Just a thought. This is a hrd one to find, If i am not mistaken they are only found in 2WD 6cyl toys. that way i get the right bolt pattern AND the stronger housing and third member.... Its a nice thought and it would defineately be different..... I am leaning to the D44... I found out my price on the D44...cheaper than I thought!! also, as I was looking thru my parts I found a master rebuilding kit for a D44 as well as some setup bearings..all brandy new!!! CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 [i sure do wish you'd stop calling tires "tars", though. Heck, even down south where they say it that way they spell it right.] hey hey hey, ill have YALL know that i call tires, tires. not tars... but i am very guilty of yall. :D :D i would go D44, use a disconnect D30 with one of the posi-loc mechanisms out there, which can save you the chunk of change of buying a selectable front locker. also some toyos came with electric selec lockers in the rear, my buddy has one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Druville Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 well of course this kentucky boy says tars :). i love the red tint of my neck, just don't tell the white folks its cause I'm one of those dern red skins haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted October 29, 2006 Author Share Posted October 29, 2006 You guys are too funny...I'll try to curtail the tars...AHEM....TIRES comments. ;) Well, I am still leaning sharply towards the D44... BUT I just located a lomileage 8.25 from a '99XJ for $50!! I am going to grab it just because, its a 29spline and should have a factory LS. So the guy says..... My pile-O-parts for future projects is getting bigger and bigger... :brows: :chillin: CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 Have you thought of the Isuzu 12 bolt? Thats another great axle... and strong as hell... heck how about a d60 :brows: I will sell you a complete useble housing for a couple hundred and you can get it narrowed for lil or nothing, and then you would have some strength. As for the front D30. I don't know what your ultimate goal is for it, but spending any money into one is a waste. I spent alot of copin building mine in hopes of not having to build another axle, and low and behold.. I am building another front axle. Granted my wheeling style might be a lil different then yours, but even well taken care of parts break. Just my 2 cents worth of advice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 At $50 for a 29-spline 8-1/4 you can't go wrong. If you cut/gring carefully you may be able to reuse the original spring perches. If not, for about $10 from Mopar Performance you can get a pair of the beefiest spring perches you'll ever need. Weld 'em on and throw that puppy under your truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted October 29, 2006 Author Share Posted October 29, 2006 At $50 for a 29-spline 8-1/4 you can't go wrong. If you cut/grind carefully you may be able to reuse the original spring perches. If not, for about $10 from Mopar Performance you can get a pair of the beefiest spring perches you'll ever need. Weld 'em on and throw that puppy under your truck. EAGLE, You are SOO RIGHT!!! If its got 3:55's I could do the perches and get it under there NOW and have better traction for THIS winter!!! This would allow me all winter to squirrel away some more coin for the traction device, gears and gears set up!! PONG , It's good to see ya back. I for one missed your comments!! The HPD30 will be fine for me and my intentions on this vehicle. Going by a couple of your vid clips, you have a certain fondness for the skinny peddal I seem to lack. Plus you are running bigger TIRES. :brows: (Just for you Eagle) I have been running the factory LPD30 on my TJ locked with 33's for four years now with zero problems. This TJ is trails only for the past year and sees some very hard trails. Blacks and double blacks where the rule last trip to Paragon in PA. I have a non disco HPD30 sitting in the garage I'm also rebuilding for it. Thought long and hard about a D44 for it, but I just do not think Its needed for me and my style of wheeling. CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rejeep Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 bri, Ive been reading these posts on both sites... I would agree with eagle.. for simplicity and easy of install. The factory LS in the 8.25 is actually good... I have a 95 one in my shed that I drove around for a bit and it works real nice.. better than the stock one in my 8.8.. Even if the gears don't match up you could still plop it in and just don't use 4wd till you get around to the front. The LS in that thing wouod be pleanty for road driving. I would also give you that one but its a 27 spline.. ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted October 29, 2006 Author Share Posted October 29, 2006 OK, I have seen the pics of the 8.25 looks OK, just needs complete brakes just like the D44 does. Any one know for sure if all 1999 XJ 8.25's where 29 spline? I THINK they where....Pretty sure its got 3:55's as well. Image Not Found Image Not Found Question is if I go to the trouble of putting complete brakes on it, just to get a traction device for the winter.... And do I really want a 8.25 instead of the D44?? I'll have to price out brakes and see. I am pretty sure the 8.25's will be cheaper and the axle itself has less up front costs and the same gears setup fees. so the difference in higher cost gears and LS are negated somewhat.... I have to do some cost comparisons... CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 I prefer an open rear for wintertime street driving. Less chance of swapping ends as the non-spinning tire acts like a rudder when you're on the gas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 On the Toy axle, the older 2WDs were 5 on 4.5, but the ones with lockers were 6 lug. Since the thirds drop out, you could drop in a V6 e-locked third, but for the price you got that 8.25, go for it! I've heard great things about the 29 spline 8.25s. I don't remember on the earlier posts, but are you considering discs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted October 30, 2006 Author Share Posted October 30, 2006 I handnt thought about discs.... Do you think that would be a cheaper option?? I have discs all around on the TJ and LOVE it!! CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 The main reason I was thinking Toy, was diff clearance and already 4.10s (usually). I'd do the 8.25, myself, cause that's a ridiculously awesome price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 Jesus man tits. How do you feel about mis-matched bolt patterns? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted October 30, 2006 Author Share Posted October 30, 2006 Jesus man tits. How do you feel about mismatched bolt patterns? I assume your speaking about the TOY axles. That's the reason I mentioned 2WD axles. they are the same bolt pattern our jeeps have!! Then you just swap in a center section form a 6cyl 4WD TOY and you gots a really strong axle with a better profile than the D35 and the same bolt pattern!! The only issues would be minor, like metric threads on the brake lines and hose as well as a little finagling for the drive shaft attachment. I am now more perplexed. I was really leaning to the 8.25 as costs will make it the most economical. Well lockers and gears for it are almost DOUBLE what the 44 will cost. I haven't priced the brake parts yet. That will be the clincher, I'll find that out today. CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 Go with an 8.8. just swap front gears to 4.10's :brows: you know you want more gear :D it will give you disc brakes :hmm: and it is a sronger axle. Yes it hangs down more :smart: but that is God's way of saying you need bigger tires Spacers are cheap as well. Lets do a quick Math thingy. Complete 8.8 from UWI $110, a set of mopar spring perches $10, and a set of trail sport wheel spacersw/shipping $85. :papers: so for just 200 bucks you can have a better rear axle with a LSD Now for the front new gears 129, and 79 bucks for an install kit, and you can be set, or you go down to the UWI and pick up a 4 banger front axle with 4.10's for a 110 bucks and call it good. Personally I would go with the 8.8 as I can attest to the abuse this axle will take Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
possum Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 I say find yourself a good post-1965 chrysler 8.3/4 and you get an awesome rear with a drop out third usually pretty cheap. Most full size Mopar autos have them as well as the D-series vans and trucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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