h/o 4.0 block with renix intake will it look?

[asm4mcc]

h/o 4.0 block with renix intake will it look? has any done it? what is invovled?

[cherokee]

A renix block is interchangeable with an HO block (certain ones not as easily though). A HO head will bolt to a renix block (and vice versa presumably). A HO intake will bolt up to a renix head, but the ports will not match (and the same in reverse).

[75sv1]

I have seen some write ups on this. I think you will need to have the bottom of the intake welded up or weld material added. Then the face of it machined. Then do a port match. If you put the exhaust gasket from the HO onto the Renix intake, then I think you will get a good idea of where material should be added, and what you will need to grind out.

Tom

[juan]

Yes it will. I did to to my 88mj this past october. My original 4.0 was smoking and the blow by was out of control. I got a 94 4.0 engine out of a ZJ - I stripped the 94 down to the block and head, then I swapped all of the 88 accesories and sensors to work as it was originally intended with the renix fuel injection. good luck.

[KCsurfer420]

You might have gotten away with adapting your renix intake to the ho head but JUST an FYI the intake ports DO NOT match up corectly and you are NOT geting the most out of the engine and sooner or later you will blow an intake gasket... Ask me how I know :no: Your best bet is to take the head from the renix and mount it on to the ho block and then mount your intake and exzhaust manifolds up.... with the renix intake on a ho block your realy killing about 25 horses.... but its up to you... yes it will work, but your not getting the most out of it so why would you waste your time and have to do it agian when the gasket blows? Just puting my 2cence in

[ratrapp]

i did something backwards.i used a 99-up intake on a renix block with a ho head but kept the renix style exhaust manifold.it bolted up but within 3 weeks it blew the exhaust gasket completely out of the rear of the head where the ports don't line up correctly.i switched to a ho style atp header and a new downpipe a few months ago and all is well.you may get lucky and it doesn't blow out gaskets but some of us didn't.

[jeepjerry]

Ive done this as well with no problems. I replaced a renix head on our 89 xj that had a burnt valve with an HO head. I gasket matched the head ports to match the renix though. Runs stronger than any HO 4.0 ive had..... :dunno:

[cruiser54]

First off, ain't no 25 horses difference. It's more like 8 at the most and it isn't from just the head. This was written just for the OP.

 

I've done more than a few of them. Any questions, post them up.

 

 

Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap

 

This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.

 

The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.

 

Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1998 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.

 

You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.

You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.

 

The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.

 

As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.

 

 

Revised 07/24/2012