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Project Killpig


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Well I was changing the plugs and wires today, and I got to the #3 plug and it was in there tight. I eventually broke it loose,but it also broke the sparkplug. Here's the post in the tech section:

 

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=23283

 

Before all this I got a pair of these from O'Reilly's:

 

 

I also dug up my old 13 ball I've been lugging around my military career fo the last 9 or so years:

 

 

Should make a cool shift knob.

 

I did get a tach installed last night as well:

 

 

And my buddy came over yesterday with his buffer and some rubbing compound. I also used a flap disc on the angle grinder to clean up some of the flaking paint and rust. Then I used rust converting primer on it:

 

 

 

 

Thanks for looking.

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The wheel was $32 and the adater kit was $25 at O'Reilly's. Not sure what kind f auto parts stores you guys got up north. Crappy thing is I don't have tilt and the smaller diameter wheel blocks my view of the speedo now........ Not that big a deal, I guess.

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I bought the same steering wheel for my CJ7. I really like it. Quadratech sells a chrome horn button that says "Jeep" I kind of liked the look with the all black wheel. I forgot to put that piece of tin foil around the center of the wheel and it took a while before I figured out why my horn didn't work. That powder coat isn't a very good conductor.

 

Mac...

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OK so now that I have defeated the spark plug (viewtopic.php?f=2&t=23283), I will post up the other stuff that I had been doing while waiting for these like PB blaster to take effect..........

 

I pulled the interior.

From the passenger side:

 

 

Passenger side holes:

 

 

Driver's side:

 

 

Driver's Side hole:

 

 

Rear of cab:

 

 

Seat bracket studs are good, but seat bracket needs to be fixed or replaced.

 

I also did the cut and fold in the rear fenders to get a little bit more clearance.

I started this by removing these four inner mud flaps:

 

 

Then I set to wire wheeling the inside of the fenderwells. I also used rust-converting primer on some of the bare/rusty spots in there. The brown is just old undercoating It was still black- the lighting is just wierd I guess. I figured leave the stuff that is sticking alone- more is better image_209027.gif :

 

 

Next I used a cutoff wheel on my angle grinder to radius cut the wheel well. You obviously want to cut in between the pinch welds... Some of my cuts were too long- damned grinder jumped on me:

 

 

Here is an idea of how much more clearance you can get- I had already trimmed the wheel wells a bit:

 

 

I then beat the notches in with a small ball peen hammer and a three pound sledge:

 

 

I used a flap disc on the anglegrinder to sand down the chipped areas of the paint. I followed that with some primer and undercoated the entire wheel well and lip on the wheel well:

 

 

If I could do this mod again, I would have used body sealer before primer and undercoat. I listened to the guy at the auto parts store when he told me "oh undercoat will be thick enough". Lesson learned. I'm not too worried- eventually I will either tub the wels out or remove the bed altogether.

 

Also started a small tool box from an ammo can from work:

 

 

Not sure if I want to mount it in the bed permanently or make it a grab and go affair. I sanded it down to bare metal with the wire wheel and prmered it black. It got too dark for a good pic so I'll take one tomorrow to letyou see ow it came out.......

 

Have fun and be safe. Thanks for looking!

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Well the weather was kinda crappy today, so all really did was drill out the broken rivet on the seat bracket and bolt it back together with a grade 8 bolt. I put the seat back in (I'll be buying a new seat soon!), and replaced my beat up tailgate with a net. I also finished the 13 ball shift knob.

 

I'll get a photo of that later. Still needs some refinement.....

 

I did get these in the mail today:

 

 

Brand new from Edelbrock for $175 guys...... Get some if you are keeping your 2.8L.........

 

I need to do the front brakes and istall the longer brake lines (front and rear), put in the rear aal from Hell Creek, mount a shift boot from some small foriegn pick up in the JY, clean the floor pan up (probably won't patch the holes until after deployment :( ). Also gonna change the diff fluids as well as the trans and tcase fluids.

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Not too shabby. Kinda band-aiding an amputation with the headers on a 2.8L... But I am in agreement with not replacing it with the crappy stock manifolds since the headers are so cheap. Good find!

 

Rob L. :cheers:

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Those should fit the 3.4 that you'll be installing in a few months. :D

 

Haha- sounds good. I'm gonna have to do a motor swap on both- think the Wartoad will get the swap first while the Killpig puts me around. All that is about a year off though.

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