2WD MJ Suspension Questions/Input wanted

[Trix]

Alright so... you can hate on the idea, but either way its happening. I have a first year MJ 2WD, AX-4 tranny, 2.5L beater MJ project truck that I picked up for $350 thats pretty damn solid.

 

So.. I'm going to lower it. I'm hoping you guys will give me some helpful input. I've seen some trucks lowered an inch or two, but i'm looking at doing a 4" drop.

 

So here's my questiosn. Why not just reverse a 4" lift kits measurements and drop? Has anyone on here successfully dropped an MJ more than just an inch? I'm thinking I shouldn't have to modify the pitman arm or the upper arms, but maybe raise my track/drag setup and shorten the lower arms, and of course i'll have to chop off about two coils.

 

So.. can anyone please be willing to give me some helpful input on the 2WD front suspension for dropping it? Is there $#!& in the front end I can just toss out? It's an entire 4WD setup basically, as you guys know, with just a floating axle. Slamming trucks is nothing new to me, nor is lifting, I worked for Top Gun Customz for about 4 years, but dropping a 4-linked 4WD simulated front end, is new to me, and before I go cutting and chopping, I thought i'd try to get some information answered first.

 

I appreciate any and all helpful input. It's nothing personal to everyone that's lifted on here, I just don't have the want or will to invest the type of money to lift it, tires, 4WD conversion, etc. Just doesn't interest me the way slamming it and chopping it up does.

[jimoshel]

First off, it's your truck. You can do whatever you want with it.I have seen several pics of slammed MJ's but just the pics. No details. I see no reason why it can't be done and with your back ground you shouldn't have any troubles with it, Do a write up with pics and post them in the DIY section. I'm looking forward to seeing the end result. Good luck, Jim

[Geonovast]

When you get that low, the axle is getting dangerously close to the oil pan.

[possum]

Check out world's fastest comanche's build. He may have some info of use to you. He is a member here. :cheers:

[Geonovast]

Check out world's fastest comanche's build. He may have some info of use to you. He is a member here. :cheers:

 

He has an...interesting front axle.

[dasbulliwagen]

Check out world's fastest comanche's build. He may have some info of use to you. He is a member here. :cheers:

 

:agree: WFC took two beam front ends and basically cut the ends off of one up to the spring mounts, and the ends off of the other at the end of the axle, and stacked them on top of each other to create a drop front end and still have full springs for a good ride and better contol arm mounting locations for correct geometry. The rear is like you said with blocks to drop the rear, though depending on how far you go, you may need to reinforce and notch the frame.

 

Theres another lowrider build on here, but can't think of his name.... he put a Comance body over an S10 frame and bagged it to the point of laying frame... it has a Wagoneer front end on it. Good luck and keep us posted..... and start a build thread!

[Geonovast]

Theres another lowrider build on here, but can't think of his name....

 

jbhill

[Eagle]

Andy in PA (or Andy from PA) also lowered an MJ. I don't recall if he posted any details.

[JeepcoMJ]

zj rear coils drop the front 2.5-3". we did that to beaterjeep's '88.

 

if you adjust length of the lowers, the uppers will need adjusted accordingly, and vice-versa.

 

 

steering just needed to be adjusted to have it be fine. there was good clearance on the oil pan at that drop.

 

 

to drop the rear, the "poor-man's way" is to install lift blocks. above the axle, with a Spring-Under-Axle setup, you will net whatever drop that the blocks were supposed to lift. be careful, your rear driveshaft may need to be shortened if you go too low (it'll slam into the tail housing and crack it).

 

I'd suggest making rear sway bars.

[Trix]

zj rear coils drop the front 2.5-3". we did that to beaterjeep's '88.

 

if you adjust length of the lowers, the uppers will need adjusted accordingly, and vice-versa.

 

steering just needed to be adjusted to have it be fine. there was good clearance on the oil pan at that drop.

 

 

My springs are already under-axle, (I don't know why i'm stating that, you guys already know, mental notes I guess) so honestly, I have no fear for when it comes to lowering the rear. I figred 3.5" of rear drop should be okay with the driveshaft still. It wasn't until I 2-linked my rear suspension on my fullsize that I had to shorten the driveshaft some.

 

ZJ Coils! Can you tell me what adjustment you ran into with the steering to clear everything up? 3" should satisfy me with the front, i'll run a small tire to try to make up for some of it also. (Figure I can gain another inch of axle-and-all drop from like a 50 series tire in place of the 60 or 65 series 15" tires that are currently on it.

 

I really appreciate the ZJ coil input, I'm excited to run to pull-a-part this weekend and grab some coils. Can you tell me any additional info on the ZJ drop? Did you run into any issues with the suspension or control arms with that drop?

 

I'm going to start a build thread today, but I won't be able to post any pictures until I get home from work tonight. I picked up some Tercel bucket seats that look bad @$$, and gutted the entire cab today to get a visual at the floor pan, I have some patching to do. Got it running this weekend too! I was really loving driving her around the block for the first time, but damn my steering has a stupid amount of play in the wheel.

 

Thanks again guys for all the input.

[comanche09]

Awesome! When I'm through building my 4x4 MJ, I want to look into doing what you are doing. Offroad MJ and Street MJ. :clapping:

 

Just keep it clean! No ghettoness (Like a floating and angled license plate in molded into tailgate, curb feelers etc...) :yes:

[nitroxsteve]

Where are you located? I have a 2wd front axle you can have free of charge if you are close to Charlotte nc. Just thought you may want something to cut and weld on without damaging your stock axle. I will be trashing it soon so let me know if you want it.

[beaterjeep]

zj rear coils drop the front 2.5-3". we did that to beaterjeep's '88.

 

if you adjust length of the lowers, the uppers will need adjusted accordingly, and vice-versa.

 

steering just needed to be adjusted to have it be fine. there was good clearance on the oil pan at that drop.

 

ZJ Coils! Can you tell me what adjustment you ran into with the steering to clear everything up? 3" should satisfy me with the front, i'll run a small tire to try to make up for some of it also. (Figure I can gain another inch of axle-and-all drop from like a 50 series tire in place of the 60 or 65 series 15" tires that are currently on it.

 

I really appreciate the ZJ coil input, I'm excited to run to pull-a-part this weekend and grab some coils. Can you tell me any additional info on the ZJ drop? Did you run into any issues with the suspension or control arms with that drop?Thanks again guys for all the input.

The ZJ rear coils (make sure you get the REAR coils, not the front) in question are in the front of my street truck (click on Baby in my sig to link to the build thread with more info). The original drop was around 2", but because the rear coils of the ZJ weren't designed to withstand the weight of even the 2.5L that I have (if you have a 4.0L, the final drop should be more than 3"), they have settled to a nice 3". They will make the ride a lot stiffer, but that's anouther aspect I was wanting in Baby. The only issue we had was that the outer lip of the upper bumpstops had to be ground down a little bit to clear the coils; other than that, it was a smooth install. Afterward though, you will need to do an alignment, no matter what, as any fluctuation in height will throw the geometry off. For the rear, we will be using a set of 3" blocks for the time being until I/we can fabricate a working 4 link setup on bags, with provisions for coils.

[JeepcoMJ]

correct, the front end just needed aligned.

 

 

we didn't have much time to assess anything but steering after we dropped it...he had a 5hr drive home lol.

 

 

BUT basically it was "bolt-in".

 

you WILL have rear driveshaft length issues, unless your shaft was too short from the get-go. 3.5" lift results in the shaft almost pulling out...so a drop from that height will result in it shoving into your tailshaft housing

[kro10000]

IMO lowering a jeep is like finding the girl of your dreams and giving her a sex change

[JeepcoMJ]

IMO lowering a jeep is like finding the girl of your dreams and giving her a sex change

 

some people are into that. :eek:

 

 

I'd like a dropped, built 2wd mj to tool around with.

[kastein]

IMO lowering a jeep is like finding the girl of your dreams and giving her a sex change

Depends. I'm keeping my MJ completely stock (well, suspension height anyways), my XJ is the lifted one. Slammed to the max, to the point that the wheels are coming through the wheel wells in the bed and are no longer anywhere near the openings in the fenders, and so low that the rocker panels have to be trimmed looks ultra retarded and if that's what the OP has in mind I'd tend to agree. Lowered a bit without looking completely ridiculous? Go for it, make that sucker go fast and corner great.

[Trix]

IMO lowering a jeep is like finding the girl of your dreams and giving her a sex change

Depends. I'm keeping my MJ completely stock (well, suspension height anyways), my XJ is the lifted one. Slammed to the max, to the point that the wheels are coming through the wheel wells in the bed and are no longer anywhere near the openings in the fenders, and so low that the rocker panels have to be trimmed looks ultra retarded and if that's what the OP has in mind I'd tend to agree. Lowered a bit without looking completely ridiculous? Go for it, make that sucker go fast and corner great.

 

I specifically stated in my thread that if you didn't like the idea of it, good for you, but its not your or anyone elses vehicles. (No, i'm not picking on you, or the other lift or go home posters, just re-stating my feelings on the matter.)

 

I would hope that anyone who is a comanche or jeep owner can appreciate and respect the time it takes to fix up old rusty MJ's and properly put them back together. I've already sourced bucket seats, and have plans that will push this MJ even further outside the box than you guys could currently think up.

 

As for titled license plates, no thanks, but shaved taillights? We'll see how she comes out once i'm through.

[kastein]

IMO lowering a jeep is like finding the girl of your dreams and giving her a sex change

Depends. I'm keeping my MJ completely stock (well, suspension height anyways), my XJ is the lifted one. Slammed to the max, to the point that the wheels are coming through the wheel wells in the bed and are no longer anywhere near the openings in the fenders, and so low that the rocker panels have to be trimmed looks ultra retarded and if that's what the OP has in mind I'd tend to agree. Lowered a bit without looking completely ridiculous? Go for it, make that sucker go fast and corner great.

 

I specifically stated in my thread that if you didn't like the idea of it, good for you, but its not your or anyone elses vehicles. (No, i'm not picking on you, or the other lift or go home posters, just re-stating my feelings on the matter.)

 

I would hope that anyone who is a comanche or jeep owner can appreciate and respect the time it takes to fix up old rusty MJ's and properly put them back together. I've already sourced bucket seats, and have plans that will push this MJ even further outside the box than you guys could currently think up.

 

As for titled license plates, no thanks, but shaved taillights? We'll see how she comes out once i'm through.

I know, just sayin' kro10000 was going a little overboard ;)

 

As long as you do a good clean job and don't hack-fab it, it's good by me :brows: I'm still trying to pull together all the parts I need for mine. Just picked up a bedliner and a spare load sensing valve at the junkyard this morning, in fact!

 

EDIT: Where are you located? If you're in the northeast somewhere I have a bunch of spare brake hardware (rotors, calipers, knuckles, you name it) for the stock 2wd beam that I can get to you somehow. I was trying to sell it for pocket change but it's not moving, at this point I just want it to go to a good home instead of being melted down.

[kro10000]

:D Sorry guys, I heard that line somewhere and felt this an opportune time to use it.

It's your jeep and youre entitled to do what you darn well please to it (assuming the govment doesnt say no) just as I am entitled to my opinion that if I wanted something to corner well, I'd build a car, just like if I wanted a off roading truck, I wouldn't set my mustang on a ford 4x4 frame with some mud tires... Not saying people don't do it, just not my thing.

 

Honestly I meant the sex change thing more in humor than anything else

[Trix]

I completely agree that everyone is entitled to their oppinion. As for cornering though, i'm not lowering mine for cornering. I do plan to theme it somewhat like a mini-truck, but not immediately. I still need a windshield, a fender, a rear bumper, and lots of sanding and elbow greese and metal work before I get to really enjoy the truck any.

 

 

 

As for the spare 2WD parts, i'm located in TN. MA, might just be a bit out of driving range for me lol. Ugh... so many parts and so much time still needing to be invested in this rusty lady.

 

BTW, anyone know off the top of their head what makes these trucks have a SHI*T ton of steering wheel play left and right, before actually turning the wheels/axle? I have like 3-4" of play both directiosn before it actually catches to do anything lol.

[kastein]

If you want, I can drop them off in NJ or PA somewhere (maybe) next time I'm down there in a few months... then you can harass someone else into parts training them the rest of the way or something.

 

As for steering wheel play, check your tie rod and drag link TREs for play, as well as your track bar bushing at the axle end, track bar joint and mount at the body end, and steering box. Might check the bushings on the upper and lower control arms as well. Mine had about 2-3" of play in it before I swapped out the beam for a dana 30 front axle, which resulted in it getting new(er) UCA bushings and a new tie rod and drag link. Steering is now noticeably tighter. I'm betting it'll be even better once I swap in the '95 XJ steering column and steering shaft I got for it, I might still need to swap in a newer steering box though since the beast has over 200k on it now and I think it's the original box.