can anyone help me out?

[STERLING STINGER]

i had this problem once before but it went away so i forgot about it.

 

my 88 runs great in the rain, while raining, running through puddles, etc.

 

once i leave it out overnight, instead of garaging it, it won't start. i think condensation is getting somewhere, but don't know where.

 

i turned the key to turn on fuel pump, then checked to see if there is fuel (that air fitting looking thing) and fuel is squirting out so I'm good there.

 

when i had the problem before, i changed my dc and rotor thinking that was it, it was old and needeed replacement but it is obviously not the problem.

 

now, i know about the coil (replaced), and the insane amount of wires there right by the coil, noticed they were a little, and i mean a little moist, so i put a hair dryer on there for a while, i even took off coil and dc to get more heat in there.

 

nothing yet...

 

+++++++time lapse @ 10 mins++++++++ :popcorn:

 

went outside after typing this and i got a "sputter"....almost started

letting it charge and dry for another 10....

 

:banana: started after i let it crank for @ 15 seconds.

any ideas on what this might be?

thanks!

Paul

[Eagle]

Try unplugging the connector for the CPS and plugging it in again.

 

Your '88 also has the C101 connector -- that's the big connector thing on the upper firewall directly ahead of the driver, with the main harness running into and out of it. If the CPS doesn't do it, try wiggling the C101 connector.

[BORDENCOMANCHE]

So it runs good in the rain, puddles etc. Okay, so maybe I am thinking that the water is bridging a gap in the electrical connectors and allowing them to run??? Could try a spray bottle on one componant at a time.

 

Or I am gonna agree that its the CPS.

[jimoshel]

I had a '62 Austin Healy 3000 was like that. I figured a British car, What the heck. that's the way they are. Would go out in the morning after a heavy dew and it wouldn't start. At first I would just spray the coil and distributer with ether, wait a couple minutes and it started. Got tired of that. Cleaned everything up real good, all the dirt and grease off the ignition system, then sprayed everything real good with krylon clear plastic. Especially dist an coil. Never had a problem with it after that.

[smithe1811]

i had the exact same problem with my 88, my fix? i scrubbed the heck outta my battery terminals and terminal connectors,they didn't look corroded or anything, but i guess the lead builds up this near invisible film on it and inhibits the connection,put a coat of terminal grease on them. problem never came back..... :thumbsup:

[STERLING STINGER]

Thanks guys.

[JeepcoMJ]

moisture in distributor. check for cracks in cap, make sure it's tight enough AFTER you let it dry out.

[dasbulliwagen]

i had the exact same problem with my 88, my fix? i scrubbed the heck outta my battery terminals and terminal connectors,they didn't look corroded or anything, but i guess the lead builds up this near invisible film on it and inhibits the connection,put a coat of terminal grease on them. problem never came back..... :thumbsup:

 

:agree:

[STERLING STINGER]

this may sound wierd, but i had the same problem (as first post) after i got it started that morning, got to the job, shut it off then turned the key and it started right up.

2 hours later of sitting, same problem....but....i accidently hit the gas pedal like half way and it fired it right up, soooooooooooooooooo

gas issue

theres tons of pressure from the bleeder when i turn on the pump and check it tho??? :hmm:

ideas?

[HellCreek]

It might be a bad TPS

[STERLING STINGER]

tps?

 

temp sensor?

[LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW]

tps?

 

temp sensor?

No, throttle position sensor.

 

http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/TPS.html

[STERLING STINGER]

thanks i printed it out

[Harper]

this may sound wierd, but i had the same problem (as first post) after i got it started that morning, got to the job, shut it off then turned the key and it started right up.

2 hours later of sitting, same problem....but....i accidently hit the gas pedal like half way and it fired it right up,....

Based on this comment, I think it's possible that you have either an idle speed stepper motor problem, or a bad B+ latch relay. The idle speed stepper motor is mounted next to the TPS on the throttle body, and it is controlled by the ECU. It moves in and out of a bypass passage that controls the idle speed of the engine. It is also the component that causes the engine to rev when first started, by being open at startup more than is necessary for a normal idle (follow me so far?) The B+ latch relay stays closed for several seconds when you shut off the engine, to allow the ECU to reposition the idle speed stepper motor for the next start. If the relay fails, then the engine is very hard to start without the extra air that would be provided by the properly positioned idle speed stepper motor. This is why, with a partial depression of the accelerator pedal, the engine starts as it should. Your depressing the accelerator substitutes for what the idle speed stepper motor would normally be doing at startup. The B+ latch relay is on the right inner fender, under the plastic shield. There are four relays in a row there. It is the second relay from the front.

[STERLING STINGER]

Can i ads to this equasion that when i shut my truck off it stays running for like two secs?

Thanks, I'm glad to see someone on this site thats not 16 or at least axting like they are.

Thanks again for the info.

[JeepcoMJ]

simple things first. before you go listening to anyone about which sensor is causing the issue, go and get your fuel pressure tested, and your spark and compression tested. you will have to find a mechanic for that, or buy the tools for that. I have everything to do that and spend $70...used multiple times and has paid for itself.

 

then ohm out each spark plug wire. they should all be under 5ohms. as close to zero as possible...the more ohms, the more resistance, the less spark you will get.

 

then remove your distributor cap and check for moisture, cracks, corrosion on the contacts. do the same for the rotor.

 

after that, look for a ceramic (white) object with one bolt through the middle that has two wires connected to it. make a jumper wire with two male spade ends on it (will cost under $1 with some spare wire that's laying around).

bypass that ceramic piece, remove it, and inspect it. it is called a Ballast Resistor, and pretty much it's only purpose is to quiet down the fuel pump. if you can see the coils of the spring behind it, it's probably bad...if they are corroded, it is definitely bad. if there is still sealant on it, but it's cracked, it's also probably bad. Without this Resistor working or it being bypassed, you get zero power to fuel pump. It may be going bad, and work here and there...kinda like a somewhat blown fuse.

 

If all else fails, get a spec sheet from Lead_not_follow's website for ohming out your sensors to find out which one is bad.

 

 

to do all this, you'll need

fuel pressure tester (can be made with a water-type gauge, some hose, and a schreader valve adapter for under $20)

compression tester...under $40, cheaper at harbor freight

volt meter....a fairly nice one at walmart is $25

wire strippers (or use your teeth, etc....under $7 for a cheapo)

wire connectors (small kits are CHEAP...under $10)

 

 

 

This is all easy to do.

 

-Pat

[STERLING STINGER]

Thank you

[Harper]

Shotgun approaches such as "simple things first, yada yada yada" aren't very useful, especially when you're barking up the wrong tree. As I understand it, you've already done most of what was suggested. Forget the ballast resistor bypass, it's a waste of your time. During starting, the ECU BYPASSES the fuel pump relay and the ballast resistor and supplies voltage to the fuel pump via the starter relay. So a bad ballast resistor would only come into play once the engine fired and you released the starter switch. As far as the compression check and fuel pressure check go, you know you have fuel pressure, if it's not up to specs, you'll have running and acceleration problems, but it'll likely start. Likewise with the compression check. Low compression will not affect your starting, only your performance.

 

So don't take the "simple" shotgun approach, look for something that makes sense. College doesn't make you any smarter, even if it will get you a higher paying job.

[STERLING STINGER]

Thanks

[JeepcoMJ]

Shotgun approaches such as "simple things first, yada yada yada" aren't very useful, especially when you're barking up the wrong tree. As I understand it, you've already done most of what was suggested. Forget the ballast resistor bypass, it's a waste of your time. During starting, the ECU BYPASSES the fuel pump relay and the ballast resistor and supplies voltage to the fuel pump via the starter relay. So a bad ballast resistor would only come into play once the engine fired and you released the starter switch. As far as the compression check and fuel pressure check go, you know you have fuel pressure, if it's not up to specs, you'll have running and acceleration problems, but it'll likely start. Likewise with the compression check. Low compression will not affect your starting, only your performance.

 

So don't take the "simple" shotgun approach, look for something that makes sense. College doesn't make you any smarter, even if it will get you a higher paying job.

 

 

actually, all of what I said makes sense.

 

NOT checking things that actually could be bad doesn't make sense. no, the ballast resistor is probably not the cause...but he needs to cover his bases.

[Harper]

simple things first. before you go listening to anyone about which sensor is causing the issue,..........

 

 

Whatever you say, young'un. Your first post took about the same tone about all the posts previous to yours, and they made sense, too. So before you tell someone to disregard everything everybody else has said in trying to help, try replacing the arrogance with a little humility.

[dasbulliwagen]

:popcorn:

hehehehehehehehehehehehe

[JeepcoMJ]

simple things first. before you go listening to anyone about which sensor is causing the issue,..........

 

 

Whatever you say, young'un. Your first post took about the same tone about all the posts previous to yours, and they made sense, too. So before you tell someone to disregard everything everybody else has said in trying to help, try replacing the arrogance with a little humility.

 

 

I base my statements on the fact that I have worked on, repaired, and stripped more comanches than most.

 

It is a good thing to check each and EVERY single possible thing before you arrive at a conclusion. He now has the information to do so.

 

So, maybe I'm a bit arrogant...oh well. every statement prior involves assumptions, and are not based on proper diagnosis.

[Harper]

So, maybe I'm a bit arrogant...oh well. every statement prior involves assumptions, and are not based on proper diagnosis.

 

 

So let me see if I have this right, based on your diagnosis, he should spend roughly $172 on apparatus, and just start checking everything that has to do with the functioning of an internal combustion engine. Ignore his own diagnosis of the rotor cap (OK), the presence of fuel pressure at the fuel rail (not measured, but pressure, nonetheless), the fact that by opening the thottle plate, it'll start right up (at least it did once), and ignore everybody else's diagnoses or suggestions of where to look for a possible problem, and follow your "expert" advice. I see that you've taken my suggestion about humility to heart...........

[JeepcoMJ]

I don't believe the original post had any of that contained.

 

reguardless...if you're working on cars, all of the tools are necessary.

 

and, $172 is more expensive than it would actually cost.