wyk Posted April 1, 2010 Posted April 1, 2010 I am gonna try and make this jeep a bit more presentable. I was thinking of just doing a plain dark gray and using caterpillar orange highlights for the lettering since I have my original badges. WHat paint should I go with? I can do a passing job from a can, usually. The door on my old Blazer(with the same freakin 2.8l POS as my 86 jeep!) used to be blue and the fender was red:
Philistine Posted April 1, 2010 Posted April 1, 2010 I've heard good things about Por-15: http://www.por15.com/
comanche09 Posted April 1, 2010 Posted April 1, 2010 My front and rear bumpers and fender flares are painted with Krylon Fusion in Satin Black from walmart. Seems to be holding up well after 9 months.
WBKrazy Posted April 1, 2010 Posted April 1, 2010 i painted mine with generic gloss black from imperial fleet supplies
ParadiseMJ Posted April 1, 2010 Posted April 1, 2010 I painted the flares on my XJ with Fusion...3 years ago. They still look great. Use the satin finish, not the gloss. Follow instructions (old plastic ~ wipe with ammonia, new plastic ~ wipe with mineral spirits.) Can't be beat on plastic IMHO.
wyk Posted April 2, 2010 Author Posted April 2, 2010 Thanks for the replies, guys. Has anyone ever used Automotive engine enamel? That stuff seems very durable to me, if a tad expensive. I know I'll be using Caterpillar Engine yellow enamel on my badges. I was considering using Ford Gray enamel.
mnkyboy Posted April 2, 2010 Posted April 2, 2010 I would get a cheap harbor freight paint gun and some cheap single stage equipment paint. you can also spray rustoleum from a gun if you thin it a little. If you are good with a can you will be better with a gun as you have far more control and the paint will lay alot better,it will also be much more durable.
wyk Posted April 2, 2010 Author Posted April 2, 2010 I would get a cheap harbor freight paint gun and some cheap single stage equipment paint. you can also spray rustoleum from a gun if you thin it a little. If you are good with a can you will be better with a gun as you have far more control and the paint will lay alot better,it will also be much more durable. Something along the lines of this? What would be a good source of paint? I assume I will need to purchase the paint and a hardener? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=44677
jimoshel Posted April 2, 2010 Posted April 2, 2010 I've used engine enamals on several projects and was quite pleased with the outcome.Although it wasn't done in laboratory controlled environment so no accurate test results, It did seem to be a little more durable. And to me, the color seemed a little richer. And for the paint gun, go with the HVLP set up. Not the old HP spray system. And darn it, USE A FACE MASK- RESPIRATOR. That stuff will screw up your lungs faster than 3 packs of smokes a day.
mnkyboy Posted April 2, 2010 Posted April 2, 2010 I would get a cheap harbor freight paint gun and some cheap single stage equipment paint. you can also spray rustoleum from a gun if you thin it a little. If you are good with a can you will be better with a gun as you have far more control and the paint will lay alot better,it will also be much more durable. Something along the lines of this? What would be a good source of paint? I assume I will need to purchase the paint and a hardener? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=44677 I would get a compressor if you don't already have one,its a good tool to have. for paint check out Napa they will set you up and the prices arent bad. for a gun I would get something like this they are about $20 and spray pretty good,not bad to start with. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=47016
wyk Posted April 2, 2010 Author Posted April 2, 2010 I will not be at my house for another 6-12 months. So I need something compact and portable. I have used air guns before, but only for detail work. But I do have a few years experience, so I should catch on quickly. What's the minimum flow I will need for typical car paint? What would you suggest I use?
wyk Posted April 2, 2010 Author Posted April 2, 2010 I've used engine enamals on several projects and was quite pleased with the outcome.Although it wasn't done in laboratory controlled environment so no accurate test results, It did seem to be a little more durable. And to me, the color seemed a little richer. And for the paint gun, go with the HVLP set up. Not the old HP spray system. And darn it, USE A FACE MASK- RESPIRATOR. That stuff will screw up your lungs faster than 3 packs of smokes a day. If I get it in a can from NAPA, will I need to thin it for an HVLP system? Will this hold enough air for covering a Comanche?: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=65595
mnkyboy Posted April 2, 2010 Posted April 2, 2010 I've used engine enamals on several projects and was quite pleased with the outcome.Although it wasn't done in laboratory controlled environment so no accurate test results, It did seem to be a little more durable. And to me, the color seemed a little richer. And for the paint gun, go with the HVLP set up. Not the old HP spray system. And darn it, USE A FACE MASK- RESPIRATOR. That stuff will screw up your lungs faster than 3 packs of smokes a day. If I get it in a can from NAPA, will I need to thin it for an HVLP system? Will this hold enough air for covering a Comanche?: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=65595 no,you would need a compressor. that tank would probably run a gun for maybe a minute,you need to hold about 25psi continuously at the gun. the paint will need reduced but reducer is also cheap,years ago i sprayed a sand rail with rustoleum and reduced it with paint thinner,it took forever to dry but it came out nice and cost me about $20.
one_bad_MJ Posted April 2, 2010 Posted April 2, 2010 roll it a satin color, there will be no spray lines then. it all lays flat and even.
LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW Posted April 2, 2010 Posted April 2, 2010 Here is mine using a spray can. Still holding up like it was just done 3+ years later.
wyk Posted April 2, 2010 Author Posted April 2, 2010 What spray did you use? I am wondering if the Enamels will take a set without being in a heat room. I am starting to lean towards Dupli-Color lacquer if I go spray can - they have a great fan-style nozzle and are still durable and there's no recoat window on lacquer. Here is mine using a spray can. Still holding up like it was just done 3+ years later.
pilotblake Posted April 2, 2010 Posted April 2, 2010 Find an auto paint shop and pick up some PPG AUE-100 single stage paint. They can mix it for you in any color, and you add the hardener and shoot. It is relatively cheap, durable, and the glossy looks great. I painted a boat trailer with and it laid down smooth, and doesn't have a timeline on the recoat window. Cheap gun and aue-100 all the way You can also paint it right over metal if I remember correct.
wyk Posted April 2, 2010 Author Posted April 2, 2010 Find an auto paint shop and pick up some PPG AUE-100 single stage paint. They can mix it for you in any color, and you add the hardener and shoot. It is relatively cheap, durable, and the glossy looks great. I painted a boat trailer with and it laid down smooth, and doesn't have a timeline on the recoat window. Cheap gun and aue-100 all the way You can also paint it right over metal if I remember correct. I am trying to find someone that will rent me a paint booth for a day. If that's the case, then the paint and the compressor issues are taken care of.
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