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why is it hard to shift into 2nd gear?


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I have a 1989 jeep comanche 4.0 litre I6 manual transmission 2wd, only 141,xxx miles. i just bought the vehicle so i am new with jeeps, but the guy said it has a new clutch kit. what i am wondering is why do i have to almost jam my shift stick into 2nd gear either slowing down or speeding up? i am only 17 and never really mechanical with vehicles, first stick car too so I need some detailed answers and how to fix it along with the parts i need and how much i should be looking to spend. all replies are greatly appreciated!!!

:thumbsup:

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i don't know much bout manual transmissions but my gues would be a bad syncronizer???? thats what my guess would be. does it shift into the other gears ok?

 

yes, other gears seem to shift normal, other than reverse. i will try to put it in reverse but doesnt go all the way in but reverse lights come on, so i simply move stick back to neutral position and try once more and it usually works on the second try!

its not a huge concern of mine but its something i would really like to get fixed! image_209027.gif

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Do you know which transmission you have? Two different manuals were used behind the 4.0 in 89. The Peugot BA 10/5, and the Aisin AX-15. The pukey has a nasty habit of not wanting to go into 2nd when it's cold.

 

Does it shift better after you've been driving around?

 

This thread will tell you how to tell the difference: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=11699

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if he just replaced the clutch it may just need the lines bled. just take the top off of your clutch master cylinder and watch for bubbles when you mash the clutch. other wise sence its your first time driving stick, you need to practice syncing your engine with your tranny. listen for it, its weird, but you can tell when the engine is in sync, it won't be revved up or bogged down. that makes shifting alot nicer

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i had a 1987 Comanche with a 2.5 and a 5-speed. it was always hard to get into second. all the other gears worked just fine. tranny is now in cherokee so i get to deal with it again. overall it was not too bad and you should not "hurt" anything too quick.

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Both the BA 10/5 Peugeot) and the AX-15 (Aisin Seiki) transmission, which are the two possible transmissions in your truck, are stubborn shifting into 2nd gear. Since you are 17 and new to manual transmissions, I'm going to guess that you are running the engine up to around 3500 or 4000 RPM and then trying to bang the shift as fast as you can. If I'm right -- stop doing that RIGHT NOW, before you blow the transmission. The Comanches are trucks, not drag race cars. There is a "sweet spot" for making that shift. For the upshift (going from first to second) the natural shift point is between 2000 and 2300 RPM -- for both of those transmissions. And you don't "bang" the shift like Big Daddy Garlits (of drag racing fame). You shift like a little old lady (especially the 1-to-2 shift) and allow the synchronizers to do their job.

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exactly :D dad tought me how to drive like i didnt have syncs :yes: our old detroit 13 speed dump truck doesnt have syncs so i had to get used to it. i had only driven the dump truck and a huge pickup for my stick shift experience prior to my mj. so i still hardly use my clutch. thats something important to realize is that the clutch is a luxury (other than to get took off). when my clutch master cylinder went out i was able to drive home jsut fine with no problem :thumbsup: thats an invaluable skill to have :smart:

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Both the BA 10/5 Peugeot) and the AX-15 (Aisin Seiki) transmission, which are the two possible transmissions in your truck, are stubborn shifting into 2nd gear. Since you are 17 and new to manual transmissions, I'm going to guess that you are running the engine up to around 3500 or 4000 RPM and then trying to bang the shift as fast as you can. If I'm right -- stop doing that RIGHT NOW, before you blow the transmission. The Comanches are trucks, not drag race cars. There is a "sweet spot" for making that shift. For the upshift (going from first to second) the natural shift point is between 2000 and 2300 RPM -- for both of those transmissions. And you don't "bang" the shift like Big Daddy Garlits (of drag racing fame). You shift like a little old lady (especially the 1-to-2 shift) and allow the synchronizers to do their job.

 

Thanks Eagle this will greatly improve my driving skills now!!! i was shifting closer to like 2800 and 3000 rpm. From now on i willl be shifting like an old lady letting my synchronizers do their job. I'm serious this is very valuable information for me! thank you! :thumbsup:

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I had a BMW M3 that had a clunky shift in it and was difficult to get in to 3rd rapidly. I replaced the transmission oil with redline and it made a HUGE difference. HUGE. I would suspect any synthetic would do the same. It may not fix bad, but it certainly makes bad work better.

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I had a BMW M3 that had a clunky shift in it and was difficult to get in to 3rd rapidly. I replaced the transmission oil with redline and it made a HUGE difference. HUGE. I would suspect any synthetic would do the same. It may not fix bad, but it certainly makes bad work better.

Synthetic is reported to make a difference in the Jeep trannies, too. BUT ... you have to be sure, especially with an AX-15, to get one that doesn't have sulpher in it as part of the extreme pressure additive pack. I believe Redline and Amsoil are okay in this regard (not sure about Amsoil), but many others are not.

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I had a BMW M3 that had a clunky shift in it and was difficult to get in to 3rd rapidly. I replaced the transmission oil with redline and it made a HUGE difference. HUGE. I would suspect any synthetic would do the same. It may not fix bad, but it certainly makes bad work better.

 

The AX 15 in my 1990 had balky shifts into second and reverse all the time, and flat out did not want to shift into those gears when cold. I drained the oil that was in it and replaced it with Red Line MTL. Now there are no problems at all, even when cold.

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I had a BMW M3 that had a clunky shift in it and was difficult to get in to 3rd rapidly. I replaced the transmission oil with redline and it made a HUGE difference. HUGE. I would suspect any synthetic would do the same. It may not fix bad, but it certainly makes bad work better.

 

The AX 15 in my 1990 had balky shifts into second and reverse all the time, and flat out did not want to shift into those gears when cold. I drained the oil that was in it and replaced it with Red Line MTL. Now there are no problems at all, even when cold.

 

 

I'm gonna be swappin oil this week. Did you put in the standard MTL? I was just perusing Redline's web site and they have a lot of options in fluids nowadays. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on which one to go with for an AX5, or whatever it is in my 86 4X4 5 speed.

 

I think I'll pick up the 75W140 for the rear diff while I am at it.

 

http://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=7

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I had a BMW M3 that had a clunky shift in it and was difficult to get in to 3rd rapidly. I replaced the transmission oil with redline and it made a HUGE difference. HUGE. I would suspect any synthetic would do the same. It may not fix bad, but it certainly makes bad work better.

 

The AX 15 in my 1990 had balky shifts into second and reverse all the time, and flat out did not want to shift into those gears when cold. I drained the oil that was in it and replaced it with Red Line MTL. Now there are no problems at all, even when cold.

 

 

I'm gonna be swappin oil this week. Did you put in the standard MTL? I was just perusing Redline's web site and they have a lot of options in fluids nowadays. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on which one to go with for an AX5, or whatever it is in my 86 4X4 5 speed.

 

I think I'll pick up the 75W140 for the rear diff while I am at it.

 

http://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=7

 

Yes.. regular MTL is pefectly fine for your AX-5.. as is the MT-90.

 

Amsoil MTG is another choice. It is what I recommend to my customers.

 

The key is to look for a fluid that still meets the GL-3/4 specification.. but does not meet GL-5. GL-5 fluids are the ones that contain too much sulfur for the bronze synchros in your tranny.

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Yes.. regular MTL is pefectly fine for your AX-5.. as is the MT-90.

 

Amsoil MTG is another choice. It is what I recommend to my customers.

 

The key is to look for a fluid that still meets the GL-3/4 specification.. but does not meet GL-5. GL-5 fluids are the ones that contain too much sulfur for the bronze synchros in your tranny.

 

Cool. Thanks, man.

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technically, only the AX-15 has the GL-3 requirement. the rest of the Jeep trannys can take plain ol' GL-5.

 

But a quality gear oil is still a good choice. :thumbsup:

 

 

Well.. maybe I can convince Correy into showing the purty yellow synchro rings in his AX-5 rebuilding project...

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