Jump to content

Rough Country front lift parts


Recommended Posts

In a nutshell ........ are they any good for moderate off roading??? No rock climbing, nothing hard core just getting from point "A" to "B" and back again. I'll be going through a few holes and ruts but nothing a stock truck couldnt do with tha help of a little lift.

 

I've talked to R/C and they've offered me a pretty nice deal on the following;

adj track bar with drop bracket for 6.5" lift, 2" drop pitman arm, 180lb 6.5" springs all for $250 shipped. (Regular prices for those parts total $312.85 + shipping)

 

upper and lower control arms. $249.95 + shipping. (Regular price for um is $359.90 + shipping)

 

Everything delivered to my door for about $530 bucks pending shipping cost on the control arms only.

 

Regular pricing;

6.5" springs = $129.95

Track bar w/drop bracket = $129.95 +

2" drop pitman arm = $52.95 +

Upper control arms = $179.95 +

Lower control arms = $179.95 +

Total = $672.75 + shipping (even with combined shipping .... at least $750 bucks)

 

$750 - $530 = $220 discount. Not bad. But only if tha parts a worth a sht.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There parts perform as well as any kit of similar design and are quality and well made. (short arm)

One thing you will want to consider is at 6 + inches of lift your arms will be at a steep angle and will give you a rougher ride then stock. if you can swing it you may want to get their long arm upgrade in place of the control arms it will cost you a few hundred more but will give you a stock smooth ride and overall better performance.

I recommend going long arm system if its in your budget. if not the setup you have listed will work well . there customer service and warranty is A+ and I have used there products for over 7 years. they have gotten better every year. :cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There parts perform as well as any kit of similar design and are quality and well made. (short arm)

One thing you will want to consider is at 6 + inches of lift your arms will be at a steep angle and will give you a rougher ride then stock. if you can swing it you may want to get their long arm upgrade in place of the control arms it will cost you a few hundred more but will give you a stock smooth ride and overall better performance.

I recommend going long arm system if its in your budget. if not the setup you have listed will work well . there customer service and warranty is A+ and I have used there products for over 7 years. they have gotten better every year. :cheers:

I'd like to go long arm but its not in my budget right now. Hopefully tha setup I'm lookin to buy will be a vast improvement over what the previous owner installed under tha front of this truck. (F250 front springs with 3" steel spacers) :shake: Other than installing some Pro-comp ES3000 shocks, thats all he did. No other parts were replaced. Have you ever dropped a bowling ball on tha ground? That's about what my front suspension feels like when I slowly drop off tha curb in front of my house.

Needless to say I desperately need to get my axle positioned correctly. Surely by doing so and installing the 180lb springs it'll considerably improve my ride. I'm aware that all this won't give me a stock smooth ride. I am however expecting a major improvement over how it rides now. It damn sure couldnt be any worst.

 

Thanks for the positive input on R/C's parts. For a DD and considering my style of off roading they aughta be fine. I'll probably place my order tomorrow.

 

Thanks again.

Robert

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Parts are ordered. :thumbsup: Damn my stuff is gonna be sweeeet. New tires and gittin my front end set up properly are gonna make a big difference. Now I just need to sell that XJ and buy a 4x4 tranny and t/c so I'll actually have a 4x4 truck instead of this wanna-be look-a-like. :thumbsup:

No doubt its better that I'm gittin the front end set up properly prior to hooking a front drive shaft up to it. So whats tha deal with dropping tha t/c? I assume its for drive shaft angle. Whats needed and or involved in doing it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

dropping the t-case lessens the rear d-shaft angle, but worsens the front d-shaft angle. It's mostly a hack way for TJ/YJ/XJs to help reduce vibes for their short rear driveshafts. MJs have a foot more wheelbase and so a foot more driveshaft and the angles aren't really a concern. :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

dropping the t-case lessens the rear d-shaft angle, but worsens the front d-shaft angle. It's mostly a hack way for TJ/YJ/XJs to help reduce vibes for their short rear driveshafts. MJs have a foot more wheelbase and so a foot more driveshaft and the angles aren't really a concern. :thumbsup:
Thanks Pete. I have no doubt that your right. I must have been readin about that on tha Cherokee Talk forum. I kinda bounce back a forth for one site to the other so I'm not surprised I got some of my info mixed up.

Good to know thats at least one thing I don't have to worry about while trying to get my front axle set up properly. Damn good thing cuzz I couldnt afford to buy anything else for it right now anyway. :ack:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As yall know I just ordered my 6+" front lift parts from Rough Country. (6.5" coils, adj upper and lower arms, adj track bar with drop bracket, 2" drop pitman arm)

 

Question ..... could somebody please give me some approximate eye to eye measurements for my arms and track bar? A starting point so to speak. I need to git everything set up close enough to be drivable up to tha auto dealership where my son works. Once there he'll do a front end alignment on it.

 

As with most repairs I'm sure there's tha hard way :wall: and my personal favorite tha easy way :thumbsup: to do this installation. With that said, any tips or advise on it would be appreciated.

 

 

EDIT ..... Never mind on the control arm measurements. According to R/C's installation instructions, tha lowers should be set at 16 1/2" and the uppers should be at 15 1/2". They didnt give a measurement for tha track bar so I could still use some help on a measurement for it. Keep in mind it'll come with a drop bracket.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why did you get a drop pitman arm?

 

You should never have to use a drop pitman arm. DPAs should ONLY be used if you're lowering the trackbar mount on the frame, or raising it on the axle, otherwise it will CAUSE bumpsteer. The whole belief that you need a drop pitman arm with a lift has been perpetuated from the days of leaf sprung vehicles without trackbars. On these vehicles you wanted to keep the angle of the draglink as flat as possible to minimize bumpsteer. On vehicles with a trackbar (like your MJ), you want to keep the draglink as parallel to the trackbar as possible to minimize bumpsteer. With a DPA, your making it worse. A dropped pitman arm will also increase the amount of torque/axial loading on the shaft your steering box experiences. If you've ever talked to anyone who's running larger tires and had a frame failure to the steering box mounting area, they'll be the first to tell you that you don't want to do anything to put more stress on the steering box...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check that drop pitman arm before you remove the old one. Rc sent me two of them and both were identical to what was on mine already, why I don't know but also checked it against two xj's just to make sure I wasn't crazy. So on my truck it doesn't have the drop arm I just stayed with the stock one

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why did you get a drop pitman arm?

 

You should never have to use a drop pitman arm. DPAs should ONLY be used if you're lowering the trackbar mount on the frame, or raising it on the axle, otherwise it will CAUSE bumpsteer. The whole belief that you need a drop pitman arm with a lift has been perpetuated from the days of leaf sprung vehicles without trackbars. On these vehicles you wanted to keep the angle of the draglink as flat as possible to minimize bumpsteer. On vehicles with a trackbar (like your MJ), you want to keep the draglink as parallel to the trackbar as possible to minimize bumpsteer. With a DPA, your making it worse. A dropped pitman arm will also increase the amount of torque/axial loading on the shaft your steering box experiences. If you've ever talked to anyone who's running larger tires and had a frame failure to the steering box mounting area, they'll be the first to tell you that you don't want to do anything to put more stress on the steering box...

Thanks for the info/advice. The track bar I'm getting comes with a drop bracket and says that a drop pitman arm is required. Here's tha trackbar. See Notes; • Requires drop pitman arm.

 

http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_xtras_1079.html

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Check that drop pitman arm before you remove the old one. Rc sent me two of them and both were identical to what was on mine already, why I don't know but also checked it against two xj's just to make sure I wasn't crazy. So on my truck it doesn't have the drop arm I just stayed with the stock one
Thanks. I'll be sure to check it.

 

 

...adj track bar with drop bracket...

 

 

I'm assuming that this means it's the appropriate trackbar bracket. :dunno:

I don't have an answer for that other than I'm assuming R/C knows what their doing :hmm: and is selling me a quality part thats appropriate for the application.

http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_xtras_1079.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

WOW!!! That was quick. My parts are here. :banana: Got home around 7-ish last night to find 3 boxes sittin on tha front porch. Everything looks great. Now if I can figure out a way to sh-t tha money for some new spring isolators and bump stops I'd be good to go. Unfortunately I've already gottin busted by tha wife for ordering over $500 bucks worth of parts so it might be a week or so before I can afford the isolators and stops. :(

Oh well, that may turn out to be perfect timing. My son told me we could do the install at the auto dealership where he works but not till weekend after next. I'm thinkin it'll be well worth tha wait to have a lift to do it on instead of having to crawl around under it up on jack stands in tha driveway.

 

More later.

Robert

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For those who didn't know, Tom at hell creek is a member here, and he distributes RC stuff. I don't know who you guys are talking to, but Tom is a really nice guy, and other members give him very much praise. I would say to talk to Tom for any RC stuff, and help a member out.

 

www.hellcreeksuspension.com

 

He even offers discounts to comancheclub members.

Rob L.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ive been thinking about getting the RC adj arms,how did you get that price?

 

:cheers:

Told um I could git um for less from Ironman but preferred not to have to mix parts manufacturers so they matched Ironmans price for me. They discounted everything else too.

 

Here's tha break down on everything I bought.

 

Item #

Description

Qty Ordered

Unit Price

9275

JEEP XJ 6.5" COILS

1 (comes in pairs)

$95.00

----------------

1079

XJ 4-6"TRK ROD KIT

1

$100.00

-----------------

6605

PITMAN ARM

1

$37.00

-----------------

1198

TJ/XJ FR UPR ADJ

1

$125.00

------------------

1190

ADJ LWRS QTY-2

1

$125.00

------------------

Subtotal:

$482.00

Payment Type: CC

Sales Tax:

$0.00

Shipping Charge:

$46.95

Invoice Total

$528.95

 

I was gonna buy tha springs from R/C and everything else from Ironman but R/C gave me such a good deal I couldnt pass it up. If all I was wanting was upper and lower arms, I would have bought Ironmans.

 

http://www.ironman4x4fab.com/XJ_Inventory.html

 

Although I would have liked to have supported our fellow member at HellCreek, I don't think he could have beat or even matched tha prices I got. $110 bucks off tha arms alone. Another $35 off tha springs and another $30 off tha track bar. On top of that under $50 bucks to ship everything. I think I got a hell of a deal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Although I would have liked to have supported our fellow member at HellCreek, I don't think he could have beat or even matched tha prices I got. $110 bucks off tha arms alone. Another $35 off tha springs and another $30 off tha track bar. On top of that under $50 bucks to ship everything. I think I got a hell of a deal.

 

He still does work for RC, and if they could do that for you, I bet he could also.

 

Rob L.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Although I would have liked to have supported our fellow member at HellCreek, I don't think he could have beat or even matched tha prices I got. $110 bucks off tha arms alone. Another $35 off tha springs and another $30 off tha track bar. On top of that under $50 bucks to ship everything. I think I got a hell of a deal.

 

He still does work for RC, and if they could do that for you, I bet he could also.

 

Rob L.

 

 

I'm gonna have too contact him,if he can match those prices i will go that route.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Although I would have liked to have supported our fellow member at HellCreek, I don't think he could have beat or even matched tha prices I got. $110 bucks off tha arms alone. Another $35 off tha springs and another $30 off tha track bar. On top of that under $50 bucks to ship everything. I think I got a hell of a deal.

 

He still does work for RC, and if they could do that for you, I bet he could also.

 

Rob L.

 

 

I'm gonna have too contact him,if he can match those prices i will go that route.

Let us know what kind of prices you get. It may help others on future purchases. That and now I'm curious to know if I got as good a deal as I think I did. :dunno:
Link to comment
Share on other sites

he got close but didnt match it.

 

You got a killer deal,the equivelent ironman arms are the same price as RC's. the ones you had price matched are not even close to what you got from RC

Damn!!! Your right. To be honest, I didnt realize tha difference till now that you've pointed it out. Apparently neither did tha guy at R/C. Ironmans upgraded Johnny Joint arms are basically tha same as R/C's X-Flex arms. Tha price match I got was on Ironmans standard arms. Not their upgraded Johnny Joints.

I honestly didnt know till now I wasnt comparing apples to apples as far as arms go.

Oh well. I'm sure R/C still made a few bucks selling me the arms at that price. If not tha ole boy who sold um to me probably won't have a job much longer although he claimed he'd been there for 8 years. In that time I'm sure he knows how much he can sell parts for and still turn a buck for R/C.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Although I would have liked to have supported our fellow member at HellCreek, I don't think he could have beat or even matched tha prices I got. $110 bucks off tha arms alone. Another $35 off tha springs and another $30 off tha track bar. On top of that under $50 bucks to ship everything. I think I got a hell of a deal.

 

He still does work for RC, and if they could do that for you, I bet he could also.

 

Rob L.

 

Hey guys.

 

I don't work for Rough Country, we just sell some of their parts and kits. Rough Country has a policy that, if their dealers don't sell at their listed prices, you lose your discount. If you want a special deal on Rough Country parts or kits, you have to deal directly with them.

 

-Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...