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no spark....again

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this is for my 88 work truck


i have been strugling with this issue for some time now as you probably all know

I'm going to be patient with this thread and get all the info as possible cuz its about to go, I'm getting fed up of everything ALWAYS breaking



here's the order and what happened:


1) truck wouldnt get spark, changed rotor,cap,plugs,wires

2) seemed to mess with relay switch for coil, 2nd from left, and it started so i figured it was just a bad relay or connection

so i cleaned wires and replaced all relays

3) truck seemed to start fine now, so itook for a ride and it shut off as i was driving for only like 5 seconds, then i cranked it and it started

4) called buddy for info andhe told me to see if it was getting proper fuel

so to test, i turned the key to start the fuel pump and pressed that "valve stem" type thing on the top of my engine towards the front and fuel poured out good

5) truck seemed to be fixed so i went to work, broke down again, no spark, or gas now

6) got towed to friends garage...thanks AAA, and they were all looking at it scratching their heads

7) i went to the drivers side and made sure that the ceramic connection for the fuel was good, and it fired up

can i just splice that together and bypass the ceramic thing?



1) plugs that go to bottom of coil (2) have power, but shouldnt that plug that comes grom coil that goes to cap have power too?

2) brand new rotor and cap, plugs, wires put in

3) as i went outside today to check my coolant level, i tried to start truck and nothing again????

i messed with that ceramic thing and for the first time it seemed like there was no fuel instead of spark cuz it spuddered after i messed with that ceramic thing again. i know it seems like its that ceramic piece, but I'm not sure

any help would be greatly apperciated

and any questions you have for more info to help, just ask



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The first thing i would do is get a fuel pressure tester and see what your fuel pressure is. Then get a spark tester and see if you have spark. Eliminate a couple problems.

Yes to bypass the the ceramic resistor on you fender wall you jump the 2 wires together.

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easy way to determine whether its spark or fuel would be just to use starting fluid. if it starts with starting fluid you have spark, if it dies afterwards you don't have fuel, if it keeps running it still may not be getting enough fuel, but its more likely getting too much and flooding out before you can start it. maybe thats helpful :dunno:

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Is this the one that you had the motor put in? After we did my motor we had no spark for 2 weeks replaced everything. Ended up being a boken soldered joint in the engine bays harness wire and yes it was a ground. I was really carefull with bending and twisting my harness during the swap and it still happened. Just a thought???

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Crank position sensor. It's only a $30 part new but it's a pain to reach. If you look at the bell housing from the driver's side you should be able to see it. I tried the resistance test on mine and it passed but it still had an internal problem. Replacing it seems to have taken care of my no start issue.

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your cps and flywheel is dirty go get a can of brake cleaner and spray it on the cps from the engine bay it will get the cleaner on the flywheel and wash off the contacts when it starts let it idle and keep spraying it down there aso it washes off the flywheel contacts


my 89 xj did that and i freaked until i read about the cps being dirty, a quick spray off and bam. its good as new



i just cleaned my comanche too when i got it just incase o f it being dirty and not wanting to start

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yes a coil could do that, but only if its not getting good ground from somewhere. and that could very well be the case sence when you drive stuff moves around. if you wanna test this i would start it and then wiggle stuff around and bounce wires etc around the coil/distributor. if it dies in one particular position you could find your problem right there. The reason it could be your coil is because without your coil the power being sent to the spark plugs isnt close to being half as much as it takes to spark one. The coil takes the electricity from the battery/alternator and condenses it into one powerfull surge to run the plugs. So your plug wires could still be getting power and lighting up a test light, but they could still not be getting enough.

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if it does it again i would bet on it being wiring issues. any problem that comes and gos like that and has potential to be electric usually is :smart: i very honestly hope it simply doesnt do it again and you have the best of luck :cheers: i really hate to see somebody have that kind of trouble :(

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