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2.5 >4.0 h.o.


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I have searched for hours on this topic here, and have found lots of helpfull information. Just wanted to make sure I'm not missing anything before the donor is hauled off to the scrap yard.

 

I'm starting with a 88MJ, 4wd, 2.5l 5sp.

 

I have a 100% non-molested 95XJ. 4.0L AW4

Plans are to pull motor, tranny and t-case. It seems motor is bolt in ready with the frame horns?

Pull complete wiring harness (front to back). I know dash to rear harness is not plug and play.

throttle cable (gas pedal?)

radiator, shroud and brackets

Frame Horns

 

So is there anything else that I am leaving out?

 

Thanks,

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I have searched for hours on this topic here, and have found lots of helpfull information. Just wanted to make sure I'm not missing anything before the donor is hauled off to the scrap yard.

 

I'm starting with a 88MJ, 4wd, 2.5l 5sp.

 

I have a 100% non-molested 95XJ. 4.0L AW4

Plans are to pull motor, tranny and t-case. It seems motor is bolt in ready with the frame horns?

Pull complete wiring harness (front to back). I know dash to rear harness is not plug and play.

throttle cable (gas pedal?)

radiator, shroud and brackets

Frame Horns

 

So is there anything else that I am leaving out?

 

Thanks,

 

steering column and shifter related parts as well. you may want to keep the frame horns from the '95 just in case.

 

 

you will only need the engine bay and dash wiring as far as wiring goes. for the rear wiring, you just need to cut the connectors off with a bit of tails on them to splice into the MJ rear harness.

 

-Pat

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steering column and shifter related parts as well. you may want to keep the frame horns from the '95 just in case.

 

 

you will only need the engine bay and dash wiring as far as wiring goes. for the rear wiring, you just need to cut the connectors off with a bit of tails on them to splice into the MJ rear harness.

 

-Pat

 

What is the reason behind needing the steering column?

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steering column and shifter related parts as well. you may want to keep the frame horns from the '95 just in case.

 

 

you will only need the engine bay and dash wiring as far as wiring goes. for the rear wiring, you just need to cut the connectors off with a bit of tails on them to splice into the MJ rear harness.

 

-Pat

 

What is the reason behind needing the steering column?

 

 

95 column wiring is completely different from 84-94, and not directly interchangeable. all of the switches are actually located next to the steering wheel, rather than the old style having metal rods going down near the firewall to flip switches down there.

 

 

it would be a serious amount of time to figure out all of the switches and make everything work, using the older style column.

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Having done this a couple dozen times, I suggest you keep the donor until finished. Almost always just as your finishing you discover your missing something.

FF32. If your gas guage is reading backwards you got something hooked up wrong, It should read the same.

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FF32. If your gas guage is reading backwards you got something hooked up wrong, It should read the same.

 

Renix and HO gauges are wired differently (polarity is reversed and resistance is different)....if he swaps in the HO cluster along with the 95 cab wiring, it will read backwards and a bit off as well.

 

I'm running an HO pump on my 87, 1/4 tank on my gauge is full. I never figured out what "empty" actually reads....I usually fill up around the 3/4 mark and that only takes about 8 gallons.

 

Jeff

 

edit: just reread your post......you've done 20+ 4.0 swaps? wow...

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Make sure you also grab the fuel pump out of the Cherokee. And be aware that after the swap your gas gauge will work in reverse. Full will be empty, and Empty will be full, atleast that is what happened after my swap.

 

If anything is reading backwards just reverse he wiring. The polarity determines where the gauge gos. Just like when you push a window up button it gos up, and when you push it down it gos down. It's not a super complex system or anything, it's just reversing the polarity. Thus you can (and may need to one day) find the wiring to an automatic glass and hook the positive to the positive and negative to the negative to roll the glass up, and swap the two wires on two different posts to roll the glass down. Same deal with your gas gauge. You can hook it up one way to make the needle go one way, and hook it up another way to make the needle go the other way. I hope this helped. Good luck, and sorry to lecture you haha :smart:

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I know hornbrod was fiddling around with this awhile back.....not sure if he ever figured it out or not. The problem is that there may not be a way to switch the wiring (at least easily) either at the potentiometer in the tank or on the printed circuit for the gauge cluster. Even if you did manage to reverse the polarity, there's still the difference in scale on the pot between Renix and HO.....you'd get the needle moving in the right direction at least, but wouln't be extremely accurate (like the factory setup is accurate to begin with......)

 

Don, you ever figure this one out? I've got an old Renix pump assembly sitting in the parts pile I can take pics of for you or let you borrow if you need one to pick at....lemme know.

 

Jeff

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I've only done 2 4.0 swaps. However I have done 400 Pontiac into Jeep and International. Cadillac into Jeep, Ford, Corvair, an a couple others, Ford into Jeep, Scout, Buick into Corvair, Jeep, Scout,ETC, Get the pic? The idea's the same. Don't get rid of the donor untill the jobs done.

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Make sure you also grab the fuel pump out of the Cherokee. And be aware that after the swap your gas gauge will work in reverse. Full will be empty, and Empty will be full, atleast that is what happened after my swap.

 

yup, I grab the fuel pump as well...

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Having done this a couple dozen times, I suggest you keep the donor until finished. Almost always just as your finishing you discover your missing something.

 

Thanks for the advise on keeping the donor, but I'm almost 100% there will be nothing else needed. The only thing left of it is a shell, leaf springs, front upper control arms, and brake lines. Everything else was stripped out and is being stored.

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Having done this a couple dozen times, I suggest you keep the donor until finished. Almost always just as your finishing you discover your missing something.

 

Thanks for the advise on keeping the donor, but I'm almost 100% there will be nothing else needed. The only thing left of it is a shell, leaf springs, front upper control arms, and brake lines. Everything else was stripped out and is being stored.

 

you have a garage, therefore storage space. at least try to pull that windsheild for a spare.

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On the gas gauge. Why can't you just open the foil on the PC to the guage. Then solder 2 wires across it? Thus reversing polarity.

 

would that reverse the polarity or just short it out? seems like it would bypass the gauge alltogether and curcuit straight back, no signal ever hits the gauge. Am I misunderstanding what your saying?

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No. Your just reversing the polarity. Follow me, For explanation lets say there is a cunductor entering the guage from the PC on the right. Then say we have a conductor from the PC board entering the guage from the left. Cut both foils so they can't conduct. Now solder a wire from the right PC conductor to the left side of the guage. Solder another wire from the left PC conductor to the right side of the guage. You've just reversed polarity. Who said a picture is worth a thousand words?

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OK.As long as you got the idea of what we're trying to do. I don't have a panel out now so I can't see whats what. Sometimes the guages are soldered in, sometimes bolted. Take a good look at it. Maybe you can just unsolder something and not have to cut the foil. Another option, altho kinda corny, remove the guage, rotate it 180 degrees, turn it upside down, re install. Now the polarity is right but it's upside down. Jim

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Some where in my build thread there is a page that shows how I modified a 97 TJ fuel guage sender to work with in conjunction with the TJ cluster I put in my truck.

 

It can't be much different (or harder) to do the same thing with your truck. Something tells me it will be easier for you.

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