Oizarod115 Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 can the LCA bushings be replaced without replacing the arms? also, should i replace the ones at the axle as well or just the frame ends? and, does anyone have any tips on removing LCAs before it gets attempted? any dos or don't does? thanks, -nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOMJ87 Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 Remember the axle is held in place by these and once removed it will move and rotate down and back. just watch fingers and feet. ;) Cole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 and, does anyone have any tips on removing LCAs before it gets attempted?any dos or don't does? It's a pain to get the passenger side one back on. Be ready for delays there. I've had troubles twice on my Manche, and once on a friend's cherokee. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanderin Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 Glad you asked, gotta do mine on the 90 come springtime :D Anyone recommend rubber or poly bushings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted September 17, 2006 Author Share Posted September 17, 2006 so would supporting the pinion with a jackstand prevent the down/back rotation? and was there any trick you were able to figure out for the pass side? or was it a fresh attempt each time? thanks wanderin' thats a good question too. poly or rubber? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 Just get the front end up in the air. Undo the LCA's, sledgehammer them out. Then attempt to put the new ones in (sledgehammer) and if it's a no-go use a bottle jack to move the front axle around. It can take some creativity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 I would do one side at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 Oh yeah, and one side at a time, as Pete said. Unless you're changing the length of them dramatically (by like 4"). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted September 17, 2006 Author Share Posted September 17, 2006 alright, lemme see if this is right, step by step. 1) jack up front end, front axle on stands. 2) remove bolt 3) sledge hammer out CA 4) sledge hammer CA in 5) repeat 2-4 on other side sound about right? no need to mess around with the coils? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 I have done this...its a PIA. I would just go buy new complete LCA's (NOT Very expensive) or get a set form someone who just put in a lift. Being they are stamped steel, pounding on them causes flex. Most of your "power" is absorbed in the flex, so your arms will be noodles and before you finish. I use a ball joint press with good results. Just my humble opinion. CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted September 17, 2006 Author Share Posted September 17, 2006 well, problem is, I'm planning on a lift sometime this winter but my wobbles are getting out of control, and its a DD that i can't go without. why would complete new ones be easier? are the bushings themselves hard to change? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanderin Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 Ive got a spare set of CA's that i plan on torching out the bushings and pressing the new ones in....sometime :roll: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 well, problem is, I'm planning on a lift sometime this winter but my wobbles are getting out of control, and its a DD that i can't go without. why would complete new ones be easier? are the bushings themselves hard to change? http://rep.racepages.com/parts/racepage ... howdc=true They cost about 40 each/new for the lowers, 25 each for the uppers. Next to nothing from another jeeper who added a lift. Too easy/cheap to get to fiddle around changing bushings in the ones you have. thats all. How do you know/figure the ones you have are bad? CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOMJ87 Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 If your lifting it why not go ahead and buy the adjustables so you already have them ready. Also my experience is that adjustable are easier to get in since the rotate you can get them perfectly lined up for the hole but you still need to beat them in or use a bottle jack to get them in. Cole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 why would complete new ones be easier? are the bushings themselves hard to change? Not super difficult, but difficult to accomplish without trashing the arms. The bushings are a press fit, and the arm is (as you must already know) a 3-sided stamping of heavy-gauge sheet metal. To not destroy the arms, you NEED a spacer that's the exact thickness of the space between the two sides of the arm. Without that, if you don't trash the arm getting the old bushing out, you will trash it getting the new bushings in. If you buy compete arms from Crown or Quadratec, you won't pay much more than the bushings will cost you at NAPA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeepthing07 Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 Loosen up the control arm bolts before you put it on jack stands. They can be a real B**** to get loose. its a safer than getting it up in the air then having to fight a frozen nut with a cheeterbar laying on you back under a truck up on jack stands. And with all the bolts loose its easyer to align the bolt holes cause everythings allready loose. then once you got it all back togeather take the truck off the stands then tighten/torque everything back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOMJ87 Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 you can also take the nuts off before you jack it up and slowly jack it and there will be a perfect spot where the bolts slide right out then just throw jack stands under. Cole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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