dakal Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 see anything wrong with this set up? can i improve it? :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 Look at the belly on that thing... Sorry man, couldn't resist!! :oops: :roll: :yes: First thing I see is the track bar is too short for the drag link. Its important the angles AND OAL length be similar. Strange things happen with dissimilar lengths. Take it for a drive thru some dumps and dips... CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncgamedog Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 do you have Death wobble issues? looks like there is very little caster...could just be the pic tho Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 Yeah, like CW says, the geometry looks wrong. The track bar and draglink should be as close to parallel as possible. Your's are not - not badly though. If you draw a line thru the track bar and draglink mounting points it's easy to see. Is your axle centered up right-to-left in the wheel wells? Also, are you using a dropped Pitman arm on your steering gear box? It looks like the left side draglink (steering box end) is dropped down too far. Can cause bumpsteer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88mjmanche Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 you have no sreering stablizer thats crazy get rid of the bfg no terrains Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 The track bar isn't quite parallel, but it being so much shorter, the angle will change much faster than the drag link angle when the suspension flexes. So there will be a point where they are parallel, and higher or lower than that and they won't be. On top of that, the axle bracket for the track bar goes up quite a bit from the axle, and thus will have to withstand quite a bit of force to counteract the leverage of the track bar. Could probably use some extra bracing. Steering lock to lock, any interference issues between the tie rod and the sway bar brackets? I want to go over the knuckle, but no matter how I look at it, I think the sway bar brackets are in the way. 88mjmanche: Steering stabilizer is not mandatory with a tight suspension and steering. It would help you hold on to the wheel when one of the tires hits a rock of road, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89eliminator Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 you have no sreering stablizer thats crazy me neither :no: Steering lock to lock, any interference issues between the tie rod and the sway bar brackets? I want to go over the knuckle, but no matter how I look at it, I think the sway bar brackets are in the way. they are Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89eliminator Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 you should be fine with that setup, maybe just some bumpsteer but i don't think it will be bad. i do agree with marcel though with the extra plating of the axle side tb mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakal Posted October 21, 2009 Author Share Posted October 21, 2009 thanks for the replies old pic, i do have a steering stabilizer. ome i think. no problem with steering lock to lock. the axle bracket is on three sides and is pretty thick, but i'll look at bracing. the bracket is as far over as you can put it , so i don't know how to make the track bar longer. maybe with the placement of the coilover and bump can i can gain some length. ideas.?i like where the steering goes to, so i don't want to change that part. i have a 4" drop pitman arm. i could put the stock one back on, would that help the cycling. caster is within stock settings. i had death wobble until we tightened the track bar at the frame. went away. axle is perfectly centered. ford dana 44. what belly?????? i have a two pack ? how can i make the track bar and drag link the same length with my set up? so far its drives great through bumps, but i'm putting a coilover in front. i am worried about this set up, thats why the questions. and the bfg's AT's work great in the dezert. the sway bar brackets clear everything. bad pic. also, i could put track bar in lower hole, and with stock pitman arm would this be better? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfpdm Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 Is it just my lack of seeing different brands of track bars or is that one in backwards? I've never seen the adjustment on the axle side, always the frame side. Seems like if it was turned around, the axle side would go in the hole lower on your bracket. :dunno: :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakal Posted October 21, 2009 Author Share Posted October 21, 2009 bought it from kevins off road. thats the way it goes in. it been shortened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracker Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 Why would you have high steer arms and not put the tie rod onto them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakal Posted October 21, 2009 Author Share Posted October 21, 2009 i bought it this way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakal Posted October 21, 2009 Author Share Posted October 21, 2009 is this more like it it looks like my question now should be, how important is the track bar and drag link being the same length, or close???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakal Posted October 23, 2009 Author Share Posted October 23, 2009 anybody there with the knowledge that can help with my two questions?? :waving: :idea: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 i have a 4" drop pitman arm. i could put the stock one back on, would that help the cycling. The stock MJ Pitman arm drops about an inch. The ZJ arm drops about 2". Your arm drops 4" it sounds like, 3" over stock? If your wheels are centered in the wheelwell, the parallel geometry is more important the equal lengths of the track bar and draglink. I would change that Pitman arm out with a ZJ arm, or re-use the stock MJ arm, whichever one makes the track bar and draglink most parallel. BTW, are you experiencing any bumpsteer now? If you mentioned it, I must have missed it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990 Pioneer 4x4 Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 is that your MJ? If so where is your build thread? anybody there with the knowledge that can help with my two questions?? :waving: :idea: nope, not me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakal Posted October 23, 2009 Author Share Posted October 23, 2009 don, once the track bar was tightened up all shake went away. i am concerned about the lift that will come with the ten to twelve " of wheel travel from the coilovers. right now i have re3 or 4 : lift. i didn't do it so don't know. i have bilstiens 10" 5150 in front. the coilovers are going to lift the front 3or4 " more i think. so like the jeepspeed pic. i don't have to make the bars equal length but just make them parallel? the wheels are centered perfectly. the front axle is four " longer on each side. once i have the springs out i will cycle the front suspension and see whats up. i don't want to make new stuff unless i HAVE to. thanks ' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakal Posted October 23, 2009 Author Share Posted October 23, 2009 is that your MJ? If so where is your build thread? i wish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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