ncgamedog

johnnyc...what is the length in that box? some where around 36"? thanks man.

I took a look at the weathergaurd chest but, it is a little too tall. the width and length are perfect though. 55" between the bed rails 20" wide, but 19" tall...my bed is only a little over 16" deep. I bet it is going to be tough to find one that will fit right.

I am tossing around the idea of getting a toolbox for my MJ. There is just no room in the cab for anything if someone is ridding shotgun. If I do get one, it must be black, aluminum, and low profile or really even just a chest. I really despise the way toolboxes look especially on mini/midsize trucks. It would be handy for hauling things I want to keep dry. So what are some good brands that make a quality unit that doesn't break the bank? I have actually never had one through all the trucks I have owned...haha. I like the cam-lock style my buddy has but don't know the name. I think right now I am mainly leaning towards a chest that can't be seen above the bed at all. thanks for any input! -J

SO...what all would I have to do to swap out the AX-15 in my 91 to an AW4? For clarity, I have a 1996 AX-15 installed using the CJ-5 pilot bushing. Will later model tranny's work?

I think that new rough country kit looks super nice for a radius set up. It would be a REAL tough decision for me between the BDS 4 link (I prefer a true 4link) and the new RC LA kit.

just for reference...what is the proper caster angle?

haha...ya know, I missed that completely...I guess you're right. I like the looks of the rough country LA kit as well for the money.

ok yeah its been a few years...my buddy had their LA kit on his xj about 5 years ago and broke it. It was Y link

right...thats pretty much all the LA's I have seen....RE, Claytons, RK, TNT, teraflex, rusty's... arent all those y-links? I posted a link to the PP site so you can see it if you want to.

I just did this on my 91. I used a booster/master from a 96 XJ as well as the Prop valve from the same cherokee. I just reused the line running to the "T" before the LSPV in the rear and then a SS braided line down to the axle. I am running an XJ dana 44 rear with 10x2.5" drums and have NO problems with lock up running 245/75/16's. I enjoy some awesome clean braking now! hope this helps. I just picked up the parts from pull-a-part, I did replace the master w/ a new unit from auto zone.

Anyone running this? Looks like this would beat the snot out of the typical LA's. The LA's I have seen unload something terrible. I would like to do this on my MJ and SOA in the rear. I only want to net 4-4.5" lift (to keep it low). I will proabably try explorer rear springs using my 2wd main leaf in the rear for less lift. If I have to I might consider spring sliders to keep the rear around 4". http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...t-p-20915.html I'd like to see some installed pics if anyone has some, or likes/dislikes thanks -J

had to toss on a budget boost to clear the new tires... before: after: actually sits pretty level, if not a tiny rake to the front. The pic makes it look like the rear is droopy, but the driveway is sloped a little.

woah, wait a minute. Explorer leaves are a direct replacement? or do you have to use the MJ main leaf? And some explorers only have like two leaves IIRC. which packs are you refering to? read: how many leaves in the explorer packs? I want to SOA my rear and run 3.5" coils, so this might solve my delima. Would explorers be less lift than 2wd MJ springs? (which is what I have) I have built lots of bastard packs before, just had no idea where to start w/ this MJ.

haha...thanks. They actually are Jeep Icon wheels, which were offered on 2000-01 XJ limited's and limited Libertys around that time. I just made some AEV look-a-likes out of them...

thanks man. Yeah I'm real happy with how they turned out. The swap tapped the jeep fund out, wish I had the funds for a Hell Creek kit. My future plans are for this bumper: http://www.rockhard4x4parts.com/XJ-frontbumper.html some Solid diff covers, a lunch box for the rear, and the lift. Bumper = $450 shipped Solid covers = $150 shipped Loc-right = $280 shipped HC lift = $675 shipped IR trackbar = $210 shipped total = $1765 (Whew!) might be a minute. haha. none of those are bad prices alone, but add it all up, and it hurts.

I just did an XJ dana 44 swap under my MJ. The XJ ebrake cables are too long to make work with the MJ hook up under the bed. Will the ebrake cables from my old dana 35 work in the Dana 44 drums? The truck and 35 are 1991 the 44 axle is an 87. thanks -Justin

Ended up like this: Ax-15 from 96 XJ Np231 from 96 XJ Dana 30 front from 97 XJ (3:55 open) Dana 44 rear from 87 XJ (3:54 open) I am tossing around the idea of a lunch box SS brake lines and new brakes all around 96 XJ Brake booster/master and proportional valve 2000 XJ limited Icon wheels w. custom paint job and wheel centers 245/75/16 Goodyear MT/R's Haha...needs a little lift now. No rubbing with normal driving, but I'm sure it will offroad. Not sure If I want to go ahead and toss a budget boost at it or hold off till I can afford a full 3" lift...

Well here it is, post 4wd swap:

excuse me...based on what??? toyota frames are actually rated at 1 ton payload capacity. what is terrible about a fully boxed mandrel bent frame?

as most have said...its really not worth the work. BUT. If I wanted to take it on, and was dead set on using a production frame, I would go with an 83-94 toyota PU frame. They are both 1/4 ton trucks and the toy frame is fully boxed and tough as hell. the 79-85 had factory solid axles, but depending on the axles you want to use, you'd most likely end up with custom mounts anyway. The IFS trucks can be easily converted to solid axle and the frames are a little beefier in the front if you wanted to go v8. I personally would go with an 85 toy frame. the stock SA frame will allow you to build it lower and have more up travel as there is a higher frame "hump" in the front. Its only nuts and bolts man...do it!

yeah used the spacer and foam... i kept them in the same order as I took them off. The little rubber boot that goes over the plunger was not in the best of shape I suspect there is some air leaking around there when you push the pedal...I am jst trying to decide if it is actually effecting the function of the booster...I have always thought that if your booster was not working right or failing that the pedal would get harder, (like non power brakes). Worst case I'll just get a new booster.

just finished this swap this week. We used the prop valve off a 95 XJ (non-ABS) and a 96 master and booster. I ended up buying a new master from the parts store and used the JY booster. We also used the existing line that ran to the rear T and eliminated the T and LSPV, so that its a straight line to the axle. We used SS braided line down to the axle in the rear. I am happy with how it turned out, but have a few concerns/questions. Th brakes are much more predictable and plenty strong now, but the pedal is much softer and i hear a wooshing sound when pushing the brakes. I assume the pedal is softer b/c of the extra mechanical advantage I now have due to the dual diaphragm booster...but is that right? And should I be concerned about hearing that suction/wooshing coming from the booster? It only happens when i push the pedal.

was it ever decided if longer shocks were in order?

could you find a hole-to-hole measurement on the shackles? rule of thumb is for every 2" longer shackle you can expect an 1" of lift... If the chevy style shackles work...there are some nice ones offered by ORD (Offroad Design) and DIY4X. I would like to know on the hole-to-hole measurement for the daystar's b/c I might go the same route for now. Here are a few links: http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?route=p ... uct_id=113 http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/hdREARshackles.htm