ncgamedog

do you have Death wobble issues? looks like there is very little caster...could just be the pic tho

the one we just got was for a 1973 cj-5 with a 304ci engine

ok...yeah my new tranny and tcase are from a 96 (23 spline) Will that affect the speedo quill though?

awesome thanks a ton you guys!!!

yes, but I don't have an "old" transfer case...my truck was originally a 2wd (two wheel drive) ax-15...It's now being converted to 4wd (four wheel drive) using a 96 AX-15 and 231.

awesome thanks...I have decided to stay with the 96 T-case. I need to find out what its gonna take to make my speedo work again. The plug on the t-case is like a 3 pin plug and the wire running up the firewall and into the main harness has a two pin female plug on it that was for the speedo on the 2wd tranny....what do I need to get or do to make this work? thanks -J

which would you rather have?? Rusty's for $280/ set OR Rough Country for $350/set

Nice build! I'm a MET student at UNCC, i'd like to check that beast out sometime...you ever around Smith?

Ok some of you know the deal on my rig, but if not here is the quick run down. Got a 91 MJ, its got a 96 AX-15 and 231 going in as we speak, as well as a 97 d30 front an 87 xj 44 rear. I have an opportunity to pick up the 231 from the same XJ that the front axle came from. It has a HD SYE already installed. Is there any compatibility issues to look out for, as far as T-case shifter linkage, trans compatibility, Speed-odometer compatibility, ect?? I should mention that the donor 97 XJ has an AW4...which is what the case was mounted to originally. thanks -J

I think thats what we'll look at...I went back through my little crash course thread and you had mentioned that before, but then someone said that was only when going from renix to AX-15 and my engine is Def not a renix...But hey, thats probably what it is...you know jeep,nothing is set in stone. haha. Any thing else it could be??

Ok so I am swapping the trannys in my MJ. I am going from a 2wd Ax-15 to a later 4wd AX-15. The truck is a 1991 2wd, internal slave. The new tranny is an AX-15 4wd from a 1996 Cherokee XJ. I was under the impression that I would need to swap the pilot bearing in my engine to the later one...Well, we got the pilot bearing for a 96 and the OD is too small to fit tightly in the crank! The old bearing mic's to 1.050in and the new one is 1.000in on the OD. The ID's are right. What in the world do I do? I want to be able to keep the external slave if I can. I've got to figure this out by 2mw b/c its in my buddy's shop and need to go back together. thanks guys -Justin

Not to contradict, but better read this: http://www.amsoil.com/articlespr/2007/a ... asics.aspx I have been doing some digging on this subject and it looks like the bottom line is you need a GL-3 (if you can find it) or GL-4 compliant GEAR LUBE. They lack the sulfur additives that GL-5 gear oils have, which is what protects your brass syncros. The GL-5 adds sulfur for the added shear protection and high pressures found in hypoid (ring and pinion) gears. The engine oils DO have nearly the same viscosity (SUS not kinematic) as these types of gear lubes but not the additives that will withstand the pressures experienced in a gear on gear situation like in your tranny. There is a property of fluids called "bulk modulus", which is simply the compressibility of a fluid. In general practice, fluids are considered non-compressible (why hydraulics work), but in extreme pressures they can be. Haha, taking a fluids/hydraulics class in school right now.

any one?

i need some help guys! i am out here getting ready to pull this booster and master and this 96 has ABS...does this make a difference for the XJ prop valve? I plan to use the XJ prop valve too. i want to make sure before i waste my time. thanks! so will a booster,master, and prop valve from a 96 XJ with ABS work right for this swap?

boy, I don't blame you there. My lines still look like new though, I prefer to replace them but looks like a pain to get at them behind the gas tank. If they still work I may just try to reuse one.

Yes. about to start on the swap this week. I was looking at the lines under my truck and it looks like there are 2 lines from the combo valve running to the rear of the truck, one hits a T and jumps over to the soft line/hose, the other runs to the prop valve. I think I will either try to use the XJ prop valve or just eliminate one of the lines and plug off the port on the MJ combo valve. Does the XJ prop valve also have 2 outlets for the rear brakes? I don't see why I can't use one of the existing rear lines running back to the rear pluged into the XJ valve...any input?

How about the Rock Krawler products? I found a used set of their adjustable uppers for cheap?

what brake hose do you use if going from XJ44 to MJ? I would like to go ahead and replace the hard lines on the 44 while I have it out, but I'm not sure if the MJ brake hose will be the same...

Have you seen this truck? Aesthetically speaking, I believe the contrast of the tube bumpers compliment and quite possibly enhances the MJ box, thus creating the perfect balance of vehicular art. :clapping: haha...got to say I love the rear! Not too wild about the smitty front tho...but hey its a classic.

sounds like just cut the old ends off and add new one and re-flare the lines on maybe some short extensions on the existing lines? NAPA has unions for brake lines i'm pretty sure...

cool! So no worries with the push rod adjustment or anything? Any brake line mods? Sounds like no, but just want to double check. thanks

The parts XJ I have is a 96 that I'm robbing the AX-15/231 from. As I understand it, the 96 has a dual diaphragm booster. Would this be a bolt on mod for my 91' MJ ? It seems like my rear brakes w/ the 35 arent doing a whole lot and would enjoy some better braking. Right now its just stock and the brakes are pretty poor. The pedal is plenty firm and has a short throw, it feels fine, just takes alot of effort to get it slowed down in a hurry. I read somewhere that I can adjust the rear prop valve by lengthing the rod to apply a little more rear bias, but I figured while I'm swapping parts over it would be a good time to upgrade since I already have the parts. That is if its an easy swap, I don't have a lot of wiggle room in my budget for extra small stuff beyond what its going to cost me to get the 4wd swap up and running. thanks again guys -Justin

Thanks fellas...I believe I will take a chance on them. the tubes don't appear to be leaking and the bearings don't really sound or feel bad by just turning the axle by hand. Could you heat the new stuff in the oven to get them to drop on? Doubt I'll do it anyway but just in case... I think I will just concentrate on the brake parts and call it good.

Picked up an XJ 44 for my MJ over the weekend. thinking I want to replace the bearings at the end of the tubes and brakes as a precautionary measure before I install. How do you replace the bearings? Are they pressed onto the shaft? or into the end of the tube? If on the axle, whats the best method for getting them off? I hate to have to pay someone b/c the parts are cheap. I checked on wheel cylinders, shoes, maxi pack (springs and hardware), bearings and seals and it was less than $50 for both sides. thanks -J

only thing is, their site says for 4",6", and 8"...would it be too long? RE says 3.5+ which I heard their stuff runs tall too.