ncgamedog

do you like the rough country, or do you have one you recommend?

Oh yeah, I am def running their rear springs. I have a friend here that is a rough country dealer and want to see what his price is on the front stuff first. It may not really save me alot going through him, in which case I'll just get it all from them. The rear springs alone would be like $400 shipped. I talked to a real cool guy at rough country tonight. And after talking to him, here is what I'm thinking: 3" coils 4-shocks adjustable lowers stock uppers stock track bar stock modded sway bar links hell creek rears so, essentially the 3" kit w/ the adjustable lowers added on (only $75 upgrade over fixed) I might see if hell creek can just add the adjustable lowers to their kit.

well thats what I was thinking too, at first. But after you add in better steering for the more lift, SYE, re-gear front and rear, and for 5" I am not going to run short arms, so there is the cost of long arms or custom 3-4 link... I have built enough rigs to know, its always a slippery slope. I just have to draw the line somewhere. It also gets back to the fact that I don't want this for a hardcore wheeler. If I was building it for that my choice would not be a uni-body platform to start with... I just want a decent performing, reliable, comfortable camping/dd/mild wheeler. I just sold this to put some money in the bank:

well, for me... This is my DD and I want it to ride good and flex decent, But I sure don't want to spend 2k. I'm thinking: $179= rough country adjustable lowers $150ish= adjustable track bar $100= 3" fronts $400= Hell creek 3" rears (w/ shipping) $100= brake lines ???= SB disco,s $300-500= used 31's $150= 3:55 d30 I still need. ________________________ $1379 minimum and thats not including the discos and other misc dude that sucks for a 3" lift.

I agree that tube bumpers don't match the jeeps as well as say toyotas. There is just alot of exposed area under the grill to fill in on these. Plus the body lines lend themselves to a square look.

I would like to add to this by asking: How nessisary are adjustable control arms for 3"? I would like to do uppers and lowers but can't see sinking $1000 into a 3" lift...I do want a nice ride and a quality end result though, just don't want to waste money if its not needed. Hope this isnt a hyjack...just trying to help us both out.

yeah, Its just really tough to make a plate style bumper look nice (i.e. worth money) with out the proper tooling, especially on a mass production scale. That is why the ones that do look well are fairly expensive. you need a CNC laser cutter and press break that is capable of at least 1/4 plate. A good design software able to produce G/M code would be helpful too. I think, If your looking to market an effective and economic bumper, the round tube design is much more achievable for a small shop. Not only does it offer advantages in weight savings, but can be just as strong if made properly. All you need here is a decent manual, mandrel bender, welder, and a good eye for aesthetics. And just for me, as a consumer, I have no interest in hanging 150lbs of plate steel off the front of a uni-body (sheet metal). I'm not attacking your idea, just being honest. I think you made a very nice DIY, home-made, one-off bumper for yourself.

A static load and an impact or repeated load are two totally different things. Rule of thumb is a saftey factor of 6 is given for ductile materials (i.e. mild steel) under static load and double that for impact. I would consider the D rings to see impact loads. Tow strap and jerk. I see folks using this design often, but for me I want 0.5" plate running all the way through the bumper and tied to the frame, welded on both sides with a 3/4" hole drilled through it to mount clevis type d rings to. looks like a great bumper for personal use but, I personally don't see much marketability there.

havent actually checked specifically, but I would say good judging by the rest of the truck and overall underbelly cleanliness.

Not sure...should I? I would prefer to simplify it if I can w/o causing ill effects. The toyotas have a LSPV too and we usually just ditch them w/ no noticeable difference whatsoever. Just not sure how critical the jeep one is to proper braking.

I actually agree. I thought it would kind of give the safari look if coupled w/ an ARB bumper, but after seeing it on that truck I don't think it will look good on mine. Too complicated or something...

here it is! http://www.softopper.com/Softopper_Mode ... 3%20inches

I found an 8.8 disk to go in my 91' MJ...Are there any master cylinder mods I have to do to make it work right? or any other important mods I should know before I buy. Just need to calculate my total cost for the swap to be sure its a good deal. thanks -JUstin

Looking for something like a canbak but cheaper. are there any options?

Here is a little story: My grandfather has been an old school car dealer since he came back from WWII (before they were slimy). He started his own dealership selling Ramblers called "Stike's Rambler" he later began selling jeeps in the 60's and eventually became "Dixie Jeep". He remembers almost every car he sold and eveyone's name who bought it, amazing. A buddy of mine has had two old jeeps that he originally sold new. One was a super nice J-10 survivor and the other his current 88 XJ. We found the original bill of sale in the glove box of that J-10 with my Granddad's signature on it. We drove it over for him to see it and he remebered it! He said " I sold that Jeep in 19XX to (insert name) for $xxxx, that's a good ole truck!" Most of his customers were return customers and when they needed a new one they came right back to him to trade. He gave uncanny customer service and has even flat towed a trade in back form Colorado behind a 67' Cadillac for a customer :shake: Just stuff that would never happen today. When I was about 10-12 I found some old dealership tags in a closet and have been holding them ever since. They date to the mid 70's. So the point of all this is to say, I love the fact that this jeep is just like it would have been sitting in his showroom back in the day when I was a kid running around the lot playing in all the CJ's. My first car was a 97 XJ in 1997 and I had a J-10 on 38 sx's when I was 16, but have not owned a jeep since. So given all that I just had to do this:

yeah, got two years left on my mech engineering degree...going back to finish at 28 yeah I did it only cause I had to know, I felt real trashy afterwards...but what the hell. Not something I will be making a habit of doing.

I used to work in cleveland at freightliner...lived in salisbury while working there at salisbury village over on jake...

haha...someone put like a hellwig aftermarket swaybar in the rear of mine. did a good job though, but it helps with the wheel hop. I may take it off soon, if so its yours. I just had to see yesterday and, even w/ 3.07's, it burned'em up through 2nd and chirped 3rd...

thanks man! Yeah I don't plan to wheel it hard, mainly looking to have just a mild wheeler/ camping vehicle. I try to stay out of the mud holes, just rocks, creeks, and trails. ;) I like the color of the wheels, but I sort of think I would rather have some AEV or rubicon wheels in charcoal.

thanks for all the nice comments guys! I love this little jeep! Its sooooo quick. I am not sure on the seats...they are manual and a little firm but they give nice support. I want to think they might be bestop, or something out of quadratec. I almost hate to even do the 4x4 conversion or even lift it. But I probably will :D

link to build thread...viewtopic.php?f=7&t=18430

Well this is the cleanset MJ I have ever seen (in person) so I had to buy it. I love the little truck and its a real rocket ship...haha. Here are the specs: 12-90 1991 MJ 2wd (for now), Ax-15, d35, new HO crate engine, ac, ps, manual locks and windows, 3 piece slider, new paint, spray in bed liner, best top seats, xj console, TJ wheels ( I think). I got a parts 96 xj with it for all the 4wd stuff. My plans are to swap in the xj ax-15/231 and front axle ( HP d30 non-disco) for now. And be on the look out for some mildly built axles, hopefully 4.10. Once I have the axles I will most likely go with a Hell Creek all spring 3" lift and 31x10.50 tires. After college (2 more yrs) I will do a SYE, rubi or dynatrac D44 front, maybe rock-trac 241, custom triangulated 4 link or 3 link front (actually cheaper than LA's) and jump to stock springs SOA in the rear, w/ 4.5" front coils, and finally 33x 10.50 km2's. Ok here's the pics: (still not very good)

Nah. I could, but never have and don't have a dial indicator. I understand the process just not enough practice to feel comfortable. Def a skill I need to learn, sure would save me some money.

shoot, unitl I am ready to lift it I may just leave the stock 2wd 35 since I won't be gaining any gearing going to the 8.25 I have. That way I won't have to deal w/ perches and mess. When i'm ready to lift I'll just go d44 or 8.8...