4.#L Stroker build #1

[stonehands]

A lot of guys have done a lot of things for a stroker. Looking for oppinions and facts.

 

What combination of the 4.0L engine line will give the most reliable gains in HP and TQ?

Stock items:(from any year-make)

Block=

Head=

Intake=

Injectors=

Headers=

Ignition control=(unless a buyout is needed)

Crank=(258)right

Con. Rods=(258)right

Anything missing?

Buyout items:

Cam=

Anything missng?

 

This is for a 1987 Comanche Metric Ton 4x4 auto.

Must be as bolt in as possible. If not please list mods needed.

Blueprinting and balancing is an after thought.

 

I was thinking of a Megaquirt in this any comments appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Stonehands

[Geonovast]

While you can probably get some good info on here, you may also want to check out http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/

[87Warrior]

When I was looking at doing the same thing, I found this:

4.0 Block

Mid 90's 4.0 Head

99+ 4.0 Intake

The 21 (or is it 24) lb mustang injectors

Ignition, pre 2000 4.0, with adjustable fuel pressure regulator

Header.... probably 2 piece later model 4.0 for reduced cracking

Pre 1987 258 Crank, Had more weights providing more torque

258 rods

I had a hard time finding pistons for my 4.0 rebuild, went through Jeep

*edit* Cam was going to be the Mopar performance cam

 

I never got to build it, just did a rebuild. Next time though....

[Geonovast]

Summit racing has stock and overbore pistons for the 4.0

[jpnjim]

I never built one, but here's my opinion:

 

A lot of guys have done a lot of things for a stroker. Looking for oppinions and facts.

 

What combination of the 4.0L engine line will give the most reliable gains in HP and TQ?

Stock items:(from any year-make)

Block= 87-90 Renix supposed to be stronger, 96+ has HVN improvements & girdle

Head= 1991-1995 my 1st choice 1996-1999 2nd choice, 99.5+'s may have cracking issues

Intake= WJ style (2000.5+?)

Injectors= depends on how you build it/cam

Headers= stock is good, Borla knock off probably better, you also have the duel out cast iron option, tho I've never seen any HP comparisons

Ignition control=(unless a buyout is needed) Renix if you want the knock sensor, 91-95 if you want simplicity, Megasquirt if you want to build your own

Crank=(258)right there's atleast 3 versions: heavyweight/light weight/lightweight w/ factory serpentine belt. I put a serpentine type aside for simplicity, but many like the strength of the heavyweight

Con. Rods=(258)right I like 4.0L rods better (stronger/lighter), but require custom pistons

Anything missing? Pistons/quench/compression ratio

Buyout items:

Cam= Depends on FI type & use

Anything missng? bored TB

 

This is for a 1987 Comanche Metric Ton 4x4 auto.

Must be as bolt in as possible. If not please list mods needed.

Blueprinting and balancing is an after thought.

 

I was thinking of a Megaquirt in this any comments appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Stonehands

[dakal]

megasquit is work but totally tunable

[james750]

Are you doing just a stroker, or are you boring out the block as well? Just a big bore will give you about the same results as just a stroker kit would, so both boring out the motor and stroking it would definitely be the best for torque and HP gain because you would get the most displacement out of the engine.

[HOrnbrod]

Here's a good place to start:

 

http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/stroker.html

[Darren]

Good link. Thanks Don.