stonehands

There is no power in the circuit until i put it there. I disconnect and put 12v from battery at one end and meter to ground at other end. I am only going from end of wire to end of wire. not connected to sending units. I am not a literary master so pardon my poor explanation.

i put battery power to one end and meter to ground the other. The fire wall connection was pulled apart. So power to pin at fire wall engine side connection then meter to ground at sending unit wire connector. 12v Then power to pin at fire wall cab side and meter to ground at cluster connector. 6v Does that help. just checking wires for breaks or shorts. When i checked the whole circuit i got 6v. This prompted me to check each side of the firewall connections to find the side $#!& went south. Cab side.

For fuel gauge: Voltage read on pin B (tan wire) at plug to ground (blaok wire) Took out fuel pump-sending unit. It works but, doesn't move needle off empty until about halfway up. Once all the way up gauge reads full. Half of the float travel does nothing for the gauge. Continuity check with meter verifies reading of gauge. 0 to 90 ohms for full travel but, very little at bottom 1/4 of movement then starts to go up faster after that. must be in the winding on the slide is off. For oil gauge: Didn't get to mess with it last night. Wire checking was from sending unit to firewall engine side (12v). Then from firewall to cluster connector (6v).must be something under the dash.

I believe it was out of an 89 - 90. I adjusted the tack and it works now. There is a wheel on the back and top of the tach (top left looking at the back). I drilled a hole in the top of the cluster back. Centered about 1/2" in from back edge an just clearing the closest bulb socket on the back just to the left of the gauge. I can get a pick in an turn it. turned all the way clock wise. I will do the following: (report back when complete) -Additional ground to dash -Pick up a oil pressure tester and check with it. -Test oil pressure sending unit and compare to above still not sure why i only get 6V to oil pressure sending unit. Getting 12v to fuel level sending unit. no breaks or shorts in blue wire from sending unit to C101. C101 to cluster connector is where i get the drop. Cruiser54 do you have calibration info for fuel sending unit. I found my windings in the slide had a break so i took one off an old fuel pump/sending unit and replaced it. I get readings as i move the float but with 8 gallons in tank it is on E with low fuel light. Float may not be adjust correctly. That thin copper prong that slides up and down the windings got bent. I straightened it but may not be where it is suppose to be.

yes reading 6v to sending unit. Can a bad ground to dash for the gauge cluster cause this?

So i unplug wire from oil pressure sensor. I then put a meter on it to ground with key on. It reads 6v. Is that correct? I get 12v at the Gauge Cluster plug that feeds the cluster.

I read another article that said the gauges output 5v. Is that correct?

it was out of an XJ 4.0 not tach adjustment.

Hello all, Installed a new used gauge cluster. 1986 Comanche 2.5 5 speed manual. put the one with larger numbers and fat needles in. replaces water temp and oil pressure switches with new sending unites. removed fuel pump and checked the sending unit in it. 0-90 ohms. All gauges move but do not read correctly. Oil shows 75 psi running cold. Fuel shows empty with low fuel light on with 7 gallons in tank. Tack reads about 400 rpm at idle (i think it should be 7-800 ish) Never ran car long enough to check temp. If i but all sending unit wires at sending unit to ground all gauges go to zero with key on. unplug all sending units with key on gauges go to 100. (using 0 to 100 for ref.) I get 12v to cluster via white with black line. Only seeing about 6-7 volts at sending units. Is this the bad ground under dash issue or something else? Thanks for reading my dribble.

That's perfect. I was about 80% correct on my run. Thanks! What manual is that? Where can i get one?

Hello, Lost all my disassemble pics and tryin to put new harness in. I have a 1986 Comanche but pics from another similar year Comanche or Cherokee would help. Pics of how the wiring is run behind dash. Around steering column to HVAC box. Thanx

Anyone know of a reversed pitman arm steering box i can use on my comanche LS conversion. I put in a full rad and now have to move the steering box toward the driver putting the pitman arm to tie rod over the axle. putting a pitman arm facing the front bumper will solve my problem. i just don't know what junkyard box to get since the box will need to be reversed rotation of the pitman arm or i will turn left when turning steering wheel right! LOL Any thoughts appreciated?

Thank you both. Will be working on it this weekend.

I noticed both the temp and oil switches are single wire. Will the sensors be single wire as well? Thank you for your input.

Anyone done a dummy gauge cluster to a full gauge cluster swap? I have an 86 Comanche with the 2.5L Standard trans and want to do the cluster swap. I have a full gauge cluster in but not all the gauge work correctly. What needs changed out and how do you go about it? Oil Pressure Voltage Fuel Temp. My Tach is working believe it or not.

I started to do the steering column bracket when i noticed there might be a steering wheel location change and wanted to see if i was going to lose room before i did. If i leave the 87 column i will do a custom metal dash.

Thanks guys, especially for the diagram Dzimm. Going less room will have to be reevaluated now. A custom dash with the old steering wheel? Cardboard template dash here I come.

Anyone do a steering/dash swap that can help me out? I need to know if there is more room when you put in a 97+ steering column and dash. My 6'-4" son doesn't fit so well in my 1987 Comanche. I want to pass the truck down to him.

A lot of guys have done a lot of things for a stroker. Looking for oppinions and facts. What combination of the 4.0L engine line will give the most reliable gains in HP and TQ? Stock items:(from any year-make) Block= Head= Intake= Injectors= Headers= Ignition control=(unless a buyout is needed) Crank=(258)right Con. Rods=(258)right Anything missing? Buyout items: Cam= Anything missng? This is for a 1987 Comanche Metric Ton 4x4 auto. Must be as bolt in as possible. If not please list mods needed. Blueprinting and balancing is an after thought. I was thinking of a Megaquirt in this any comments appreciated. Thanks, Stonehands

I have come a long way with this truck since I first posted its many problems. Down to just one now. The #%$& thing has a miss at all rpms. New wires, plugs, cap, rotor. Checked all sensors except the one on the bellhousing. Crank Position I think. Can not change timing on this engin. I do hear lifters a little as engin picks up rpms. Don't know what If any sound should be made. No vacuum leaks as far as I can tell. Checked everything. Has 17 what ever designation it should be of vacuum. Tighten manifold bolts. Spark pattern using timing light on each plug one at a time shows consistant flash pattern no noticable breaks in flashes. Don't know if poor injecting can cause this or not.Have not tested fuel pressure. Checked sensors to specs in book except one listed above. All look good via the multi-meter. Checked compression on 4 inner cylinders. If leak between cylinder would have shown for cylinder closest to outers. Did not check outter due to space constraints. Could be leaking at exh. valve. No backfiring. Did backfire when electronic boxes on drop panel in dash were not connected. When reving engin. Does not when all is connected. Cruise control does not work.Don't know if this can cause a miss. Don't know jack about cruise on this thing. Found vacuum ball in bumper pulled out and mounted in space where old coolant bottle use to sit by blower motor. Made sure all vacuum lines to it were good and no leaks. Replace close loop with open. Mabey something there I didn't do that I should have? Well there you have it. What I have done so far trying to find the problem. My suspisions are Injectors/pressur,valve/lifter, or crank sensor. What do any of you think. Tired of typing now-chow.

Checked timing again around 19 deg BTDC. Any thoughts?

Checked timing again around 19 deg BTDC. Any thoughts?

Anyone interested in a Fuel injection project. Non Jeep related. This will be a motorcycle carb to injection conversion. I need help with the electronics of it. This is to proto on my KTM 530 EXC-R. These bikes have been having major problems with jetting. Mine is too. So want to creat a conversion kit to FI. PM me on interest and any know how on FI - especially with bikes.

Just found a leak in my cruze control vacuum line. Looked at this before and didn't find any thing. Now I know why. the leak was a brittle section in the line that goes down thru the headlight area. Ccuze control test later. Took her out after the leak fix. Actually found it when I moved it to the engine compartment from front bumber. kept hearing air flow in one side of ball. It has two sides one for heater controls and one for cruze. I digress. Stomped on gas at dead stop in rain. Launced me forward but didn't break loose. This thing gets good traction I guess. Power braked it and the tires lit up. Will be testing it out later for up hill power. Will also check timing again after vacuum leak fix. Still a slight miss. Asuming it is injector issue now since timing light shows no break in light pattern on all plugs (new plugs byt he way). Thanks for the help so far guys making some progress here. On the gearing issue since that has been milled around. What gears should be in my Metric Ton version. It has the D44 rear end as I posted originally.

Wow 2-8 BTDC. Mine is over 12. Just found a leak in my cruze control vacuum line. Looked at this before and didn't find any thing. Now I know why. the leak was a brittle section in the line that goes down thru the headlight area. Vacuum test to come. Took her out after the leak fix. Actually found it when I moved it to the engine compartment from front bumber. kept hearing air flow in one side of ball. It has two sides one for heater controls and one for cruze. I digress. Stomped on gas at dead stop in rain. Launced me forward but didn't break loose. This thing gets good traction I guess. Power braked it and the tires lit up. Will be testing it out later for up hill power later. Will also check timing again after vacuum leak fix. Still a slight miss. Asuming it is injector issue now. Later on that. Thanks for the help so far guys making some progress here.