Automan2164 Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 ...As Comanche Club President... Easy Darren, this leads down a bad road... :roll: Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driverdave Posted July 11, 2009 Author Share Posted July 11, 2009 wow man i have never seen so much rust in my life. did you have this thing parked in the ocean? Really? That's constructive criticism. It's not my truck and for some reason that comment bothers me. As Comanche Club President, I would like to apologize to you, driverdave, for the comments that were made by oregonman. Neither you or your MJ deserved it. Keep working at it, you are doing a great job! :thumbsup: It's all cool, I have said that to a few friends I thought the old owner used the ocean as a parking space. Now if he called it a piece of s*!t I would be offended, goblazers_6 Thank for the positive comments this is my first try at body work and my last lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooSteeler Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 ...As Comanche Club President... Easy Darren, this leads down a bad road... :roll: Rob L. Yeah, Ben (multipurposemj) might get pissed you claimed HIS claimed title. :rotfl2: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driverdave Posted July 12, 2009 Author Share Posted July 12, 2009 went to take drivers side door off and ran into all the bolts were stripped, I don't feel like getting into grinding the bolt heads off so the door is staying on when I prime/ under coat/ rhino line every thing. What do you guys/gals think should I paint the rhino liner black or body color? Right now it's primed but easy enough to tape and paint black again. Rhino liner runs along the bottom from front to rear plus to the top crease on the bed ( I have pic posted before and after primer). Color options so far are orange line or white line, I am trying to look at as many colors as I can I am using Auto Color Library, but the samples are small.....http://www.tcpglobal.com/autocolorlibrary/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driverdave Posted July 13, 2009 Author Share Posted July 13, 2009 I scored a very nice Binks HVLP gun yesterday for free, online price is around $450.00, I will be deciding on final color in the next couple days and going to try to make it come out good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driverdave Posted July 13, 2009 Author Share Posted July 13, 2009 It's fully primed now, going to rhino coat the pass fender and prime that, I ordered a case of undercoating today so when that comes in I'm hitting the inside of the fenders then putting it back together then next weekend i'm going to attempt to paint white on my test fender and see how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oregonman Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 ;' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oregonman Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 wow man i have never seen so much rust in my life. did you have this thing parked in the ocean? Really? That's constructive criticism. It's not my truck and for some reason that comment bothers me. As Comanche Club President, I would like to apologize to you, driverdave, for the comments that were made by oregonman. Neither you or your MJ deserved it. Keep working at it, you are doing a great job! :thumbsup: :doh: and i want to clear up i was talking about the axles and the coils. not the paint or interior or body work or anything else . only the front end :cheers: sorry driverdave . your mj is cool .. don't mean to insult you but i have never seen that much rust in my life. . but thinking back my truck does not have much rust because i had rear and front main seals leaking on my front axle but fixed those..... and your stereo system looks kick @ s s i like the bass tubes that is a good idea i have truck boxes and they take all the room behind the seat . but if you don't want to see that i would just buy a spray can of glossy black and some heavy duty sand paper or grinder.... make it look like this Or 10x better .... :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driverdave Posted July 14, 2009 Author Share Posted July 14, 2009 wow man i have never seen so much rust in my life. did you have this thing parked in the ocean? Really? That's constructive criticism. It's not my truck and for some reason that comment bothers me. As Comanche Club President, I would like to apologize to you, driverdave, for the comments that were made by oregonman. Neither you or your MJ deserved it. Keep working at it, you are doing a great job! :thumbsup: :doh: and i want to clear up i was talking about the axles and the coils. not the paint or interior or body work or anything else . only the front end :cheers: sorry driverdave . your mj is cool .. don't mean to insult you but i have never seen that much rust in my life. . but thinking back my truck does not have much rust because i had rear and front main seals leaking on my front axle but fixed those..... and your stereo system looks kick @ s s i like the bass tubes that is a good idea i have truck boxes and they take all the room behind the seat . but if you don't want to see that i would just buy a spray can of glossy black and some heavy duty sand paper or grinder.... make it look like this Or 10x better .... :cheers: Don't worry I wasn't insulted by your comment, I have told friends it looks like it was parked in the ocean also, in fact I posted that comment on another jeep forum. If you saw the bed that looked like it went swimming also, the cab and nose were pretty much rust/rot free just full of parking lot dings, I mainly bought it because it has 86k miles on it. As for the stereo I have a set of 12" subs made a box to fit but like you said it takes up every inch of room, the base tubes are 6 1/2" with byilt in 100 watt amp each, I had 1 hooked up for a while and it sounded pretty good with 2 I should have a nice back massager lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 custom weight reduction :thumbsup:i like how you made it look like rust damage,youve got a sleeper :banana: that is a good idea with the 6.5" tubes,my brother has one sitting in his garage. i may have to get it from him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driverdave Posted July 14, 2009 Author Share Posted July 14, 2009 custom weight reduction :thumbsup:i like how you made it look like rust damage,youve got a sleeper :banana: that is a good idea with the 6.5" tubes,my brother has one sitting in his garage. i may have to get it from him. Weight reduction :rotf: , I took off 3 lbs or rot and added 50 lbs of bondo :grrrr: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 custom weight reduction :thumbsup:i like how you made it look like rust damage,youve got a sleeper :banana: that is a good idea with the 6.5" tubes,my brother has one sitting in his garage. i may have to get it from him. Weight reduction :rotf: , I took off 3 lbs or rot and added 50 lbs of bondo :grrrr: don't call it bondo, it's premium lightwieght body filler :thumbsup: that makes it an upgrade over metal. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driverdave Posted July 14, 2009 Author Share Posted July 14, 2009 I bought a rear bumper today figured I would remove the old one and realized the bracket it mounts to isnt worth scrap so I need to replace them., the bolts are so rusty 2 stripped the head from the looks I can't dirll it out I could grind the heads off but then how do i drill and tap the bolt holes again so I figure I might as well remove the bed, I can't see (might be in the rust some where :mad: any bolts so if some could post a pic or let me know i appreciate it. I am holding off on painting it until I replace the rear axle which hopefully will be in a couple weeks. With the bed off I'm going to replace.. brake lines (master back) axle suspension (shackles, leafs and what every else) ( using all poly bushings) drive shaft u-joints fuel tan fuel pump fuel lines grind/sand frame prime frame under coat every thing i can either convert to rear disc or get 8.8 with disc So for now body work is just about done, a little more primer and I'm putting the body back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbert001 Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 coming along nicely bud! Don't rush the paint! Prep it right, and she'll be turning heads for years to come! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driverdave Posted July 15, 2009 Author Share Posted July 15, 2009 Considering how much rust in on the under carriage I did not brake any bolts, sliced my finger open and spare tire carrier hit me in the nose and cut the bridge so that enough bodily harm for the day. I just need to find a couple more people to help lift the bed off and push the rig forward. I found the bed mounts 4 are rotted pretty bad so they need to be replaced,Frame rot which I know I can have welded, brake lines now peeing out fluid at a good pace. once the bed comes off I will post pics, damn my face is sore lol. I am glad now I decided to take the bed off, some of the work will be much easier standing up and doing it vs laying on the ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driverdave Posted July 16, 2009 Author Share Posted July 16, 2009 I was told be some people to make sure when I paint the mj to put it together first then paint the truck, I watch Chip Foose's guy do his paint jobs and when he paints for the most part he sprays the hood, doors, fenders all off the car and sprays that way. Chip's paint jobs are a lot more complicated than mine will be. Guess I'm asking which way should I paint it, its apart right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbert001 Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 I was told be some people to make sure when I paint the mj to put it together first then paint the truck, I watch Chip Foose's guy do his paint jobs and when he paints for the most part he sprays the hood, doors, fenders all off the car and sprays that way. Chip's paint jobs are a lot more complicated than mine will be.Guess I'm asking which way should I paint it, its apart right now. If you are going with a solid color, (white, black, solid red, white, blue etc.), you can paint it apart. If you use a metallic, or a pearl, you want to spray it together. (The base will lay differently if you are crossing the edges at different angles/times.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driverdave Posted July 18, 2009 Author Share Posted July 18, 2009 I am going with a solid paint my xj is metalic pearl looks good but I don't want that for the mj. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driverdave Posted July 18, 2009 Author Share Posted July 18, 2009 Got the bed off today and flipped over, I do not see any thing that is not either rusted or rotted, brake lines in the rear leak fuel lines are junk, mounts are junk, so I'm going to start cleaning the frame tomorrow, any suggestions? I don't have a sand blaster just air/power tools and elbow grease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oregonman Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 do you have aftermarket muffler flowmaster ... . i wonder if it would be worth the 50-80 bucks at a local shop for some better sound Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driverdave Posted July 19, 2009 Author Share Posted July 19, 2009 The exhaust is a flow master muffler with after market cat 2 1/4 pipe, I like the sound its pretty quiet at idol but hit the gas it bellows a bit. If you have to replace yous exhaust I would get a flow master, cheap and sounds good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driverdave Posted July 24, 2009 Author Share Posted July 24, 2009 Bought new brake line today, I paid the extra and picked up Copper nickle alloy line instead of steel I got a 25' roll for $40 bucks thats half price because I am real good friends with the owners, i'm going to run it this weekend if I get the frame sanded and primed. While the bed is off and upside down I'm going to fiberglass the inside of the fenders (since they were rotted bad extra protection) then I'm going to rhino line the bed. Not sure if in undercoating or rhino lining the frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driverdave Posted July 26, 2009 Author Share Posted July 26, 2009 I grinded/sanded the top part of the frame yesterday and put some rust preventer stuff on for now, I am trying to decide still if I should undercoat or rhino line the frame. Before After Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87ComancheLB Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 I would use Por-15 for something like that, good for 30 years so they say that's what I'm using to do the whole underside or maybe try rust bullet. http://www.por15.com/ http://www.rustbullet.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driverdave Posted July 29, 2009 Author Share Posted July 29, 2009 I would use Por-15 for something like that, good for 30 years so they say that's what I'm using to do the whole underside or maybe try rust bullet.http://www.por15.com/ http://www.rustbullet.com/ It's expensive but seems worth it. I undercoated the back of the front fenders, tomorrow i'm going to fiberglass the inside of the bed body maybe priming it still have to sand a bit more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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