New lift, new problems...

[ocskipper]

I put V8 ZJ coils and a 2" spacer into the 2.5L manche last night and got over 3 inches of lift! :clapping: I am assuming it will settle a bit but I am extremely happy with it. Thanks Johnnyc! Anyway, I had a few question to get this thing dialed in.

 

I am going to put the 16" Rubicon whells w/ 30" all terrains. It is slower than a dog with the 2.5L and a 4 speed manual (D35) in the rear but it runs strong and I don't want to ditch it. Is there anything I can do to compensate for the bigger tires without going to a D44 ($$$ :fs1:) and if it is recommended to upgrade the axle, what gearing?

 

My sway bar is rubbing the coil on my passenger side. Doesnt seem to be a big issue but is there an easy fix? Also, is it a worthwhile job to replace all my bushings and ball joints for improved ride and performance? Tie rods?

 

There is about 4-5" of play in my steering wheel that i want to eliminate. I am hoping a good alignment after the new tires will help, but where to i go to solve this? Track bar?

 

Thanks,

 

-Skip :USAflag:

[Pete M]

Just so I understand this correctly, you added 3" of lift to the front, but haven't done anything else? :hmm:

The short list:

-longer sway bar links

-longer track bar

-longer brake lines

-longer lower control arms

-axles with 4.10 gears

-get an alignment

 

 

Only brand new springs settle. Those have long since broken in. :thumbsup:

[ocskipper]

Any recomendations on the control arms, sway bar link and track bar? My front break lines are fine and i didnt touch the back.

[MrSimon]

Any recomendations on the control arms, sway bar link and track bar?

 

All depends on your budget and how you plan to use the truck. (Boy, if I only had a dollar for everytime somebody posted that same response .....).

 

If you are on a budget, search around on this and other Jeep sites for used adjustable control arms, adjustable track bar, and sway bar links (if you plan to wheel it, get sway bar discos). That stuff shows up all the time and isn't too expensive.

 

Just switching from a D35 to D44 won't make a bit of difference in power ... its the gear ratio that makes the difference. Find out what you have now and move up two steps - that should compensate for the little engine and bigger tires.

 

For the slopy steering ... just get underneath and start wiggling stuff looking for slop. Check all four tie rod ends first and go from there.

[Darren]

He already has 4:10's. You need to regear if you want your "power" back. for 30/31's on a 4-banger I'd run 4.88's. And I'd never run a tire larger than 31 on a 4-banger.

[HOrnbrod]

My sway bar is rubbing the coil on my passenger side. Doesnt seem to be a big issue but is there an easy fix? Thanks,

-Skip :USAflag:

 

Quick fix for the sway bar end links: If you're still using your stock 88 sway bar and links, get a set of 1992 or newer XJ/MJ sway bar end links. They are about 2" longer and will move the bar up enough so it won't rub on the coils.

[Eagle]

He already has 4:10's.

Not with a 2.5L and a 4-speed tranny ...

 

3.55 gears were standard.

[ocskipper]

I am pretty sure Eagle is correct. I can get the tab number if needed though. Is it worth re-gearing the D35? Thanks for the heads up on the 92+ sway bar end links, i will give that a try. I went out and looked at the truck again...other than the track bar, bushings, and sway bar rub i think i am fine. The control arm is level and the truck is tracking straight.

[Pete M]

Read my signature. :D A better option is to find a Dana 35, Dana 44, XJ 8.25 or Explorer 8.8 with 4.10 gears already in them. :thumbsup:

Is your front tire centered in the wheel well?

[cracker]

Read my signature. :D

 

Agreed.

 

The Dana 35 is made of butter and cheese. Pretty much came from the factory with herpes. :ack:

[johnnyc]

You're more than welcome for the coils and spacers. They were just taking up garage space.

 

Is the truck sitting level from front to back? It looked pretty level before you lifted the front.

 

There was a Dana 44 on a Metric Ton MJ out at the junkyard on Millikan Ave. in Ontario. Probably won't have the gears you want though.

 

And I have some swaybar links off my 92, if you want them.

[maddzz1]

The play in your steering wheel is probally from your trac bar. Try pulling the cotter pin and tightening down the castle nut (the one in the bracket at the frame end). Mine kept coming loose cause the hole had in the bracket was no longer round. I replaced the bracket and trac bar (altho you may only need to replace the bracket)yesterday and it feels like a new truck

[ocskipper]

You're more than welcome for the coils and spacers. They were just taking up garage space.

 

Is the truck sitting level from front to back? It looked pretty level before you lifted the front.

 

There was a Dana 44 on a Metric Ton MJ out at the junkyard on Millikan Ave. in Ontario. Probably won't have the gears you want though.

 

And I have some swaybar links off my 92, if you want them.

 

The truck is about an inch higher in the front but my control arms seem to be pretty level. :dunno:

 

I am going to hit some junkyard this weekend looking for an axel and some other misc. parts, I will put this one on my list. Thanks. :thumbsup:

 

pm sent on the sway bar brackets. Thanks Johnny! :cheers:

 

-Skip

:USAflag:

[ocskipper]

The play in your steering wheel is probally from your trac bar. Try pulling the cotter pin and tightening down the castle nut (the one in the bracket at the frame end). Mine kept coming loose cause the hole had in the bracket was no longer round. I replaced the bracket and trac bar (altho you may only need to replace the bracket)yesterday and it feels like a new truck

 

Good call! :thumbsup: The castle nut on the top of the trac bar was finger loose! :shake: I wrenched it down and boy did it make a difference. The trucks steering is about 50% tighter, but now it is pulling left and screeming for an alignment...that will come this weekend after new wheels and tires. What trac bar and brackets did you use?

 

-Skip

:USAflag:

[ocskipper]

He already has 4:10's. You need to regear if you want your "power" back. for 30/31's on a 4-banger I'd run 4.88's.

 

Not with a 2.5L and a 4-speed tranny ...3.55 gears were standard.

 

:huh???: So I have a D35 or a D30 in the rear? ...and with 3.55 correct?

 

So any of the axles Pete mentioned with either 4.10 or 4.88 is optimal for 30/31's on a 4 banger?

[Pete M]

Dana 30s are front axles. Dana 35s (for jeeps) are rear axles.

 

4.10s are better because you can find axles in junkyards that already contain the gears (aka: it can be way cheaper than regearing).

 

4.88s are better because they will give your little engine even more leverage over those big tires (but regearing 2 axles is expensive).

[ocskipper]

So I will need to replace both front and rear axels? How do I determine if the axels I'm looking at have the correct gearing?

[Pete M]

The gearing in your axles must match (+-1%) in order to use 4wd without breaking something. I say +-1% because different axles will vary in ring/pinion gear size and that can affect tooth count. For example, the Dana 30 is 4.10:1 and the Dana 35 is actually 4.11:1.

 

How to find a 4.10 axle:

 

-It is the most common ratio associated with 2.5L/manual transmission MJ/XJs. This is no guarantee though, and the ratio should be verified.

-There's a metal tag that comes from the factory attached to a bolt on the diff cover. If it's still there and it's still legible, it'll have either the ratio (4 10) or the tooth counts (41 10) which divided will give the ratio 4.10:1

 

if the tag is missing, then the following procedure can be used (and probably should be used anyways):

-brace one of the axle shafts still. then rotate the other axle shaft around twice. While you're doing that, watch the pinion closely and count how many times it rotates around. If it rotates around 3 and a half times, it's a 3.55 ratio. If it rotates around just over 4 times, it's a 4.10. If the axle has a limited slip inside and both axles rotate together, then only rotate the axle shafts around one time.

 

Another option is to remove off the differential cover. The ratio (or the tooth count) should be stamped somewhere on the outside of the ring gear. Be prepared to make a big mess if you pop the cover off.