james750 Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 What do I have to do to remove my front drivers side shock? I was told that I have to remove my MC to get to the stud. Is this true, or is there another way to get to it with an open end or stubby socket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigd44889 Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 my mj has a 2.5 i had plenty of room to get a box end wrench on it and vice grips on top of shaft but 20 year old nut would not come loose nut spliter worked real well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
project88mj Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 on my 4.0 i thnk we used a normal wrench Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chicofuentes0224 Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 Didn't touch the MC. Do remember using an impact gun with a mess of extensions that pivoted though. (Sorry, can't remember the official name for those things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 I remove the air box for easy access and use a ratcheting wrench. Use your hand to keep the shock itself from turning, or a pipe wrench if it's really rusted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeepcoma Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 I was able to do it with just normal tools. I put vice grips on the shock housing to keep it from spinning (the grips rotated until contact with the fender well, then held it in place) and used an open end offset wrench. It was a pain because I only had enough space to turn the thing about 60* then I had to flip the wrench to change the angle and rotate another 60* and repeat ad nauseum. Would have been much quicker with a stubby wrench or a ratcheting wrench, but I had to do it the long boring way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSimon Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 Pull the washer fluid resevoir (three small bolts I believe - don't need to empty it or remove hoses - just undo the bolts and set it aside) and you'll see this: Shouldn't have any trouble from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 I generally put a box end wrench on the nut, then reach under the fender and turn the shock. If your shocks don't have a metal dust cover on top, though, that's not a viable approach. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 The top of the shock, just above the nut has two sides flattened down so you can get an adjustable wrench on it. That's what I did, and it works well enough to at least break it loose. Or if all else fails, since new shocks usually come with new nuts, use the splitter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james750 Posted March 30, 2009 Author Share Posted March 30, 2009 cool, It shouldn't be too bad then, I will be installing these as soon as I get my new UCA's installed, but to do that I need to get bigger jackstands (the unforeseen side of lifting the truck) and Ill put coil spacers in at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaquaro Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 The top of the shock, just above the nut has two sides flattened down so you can get an adjustable wrench on it. That's what I did, and it works well enough to at least break it loose. Or if all else fails, since new shocks usually come with new nuts, use the splitter. :idea: Snap On has a socket made for this very purpose...a little penetrating oil first and this socket , comes off easy as can be . :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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