Guest Posted July 29, 2006 Share Posted July 29, 2006 This is my first Jeep and definately not my last. I recently purchased this MJ for $500, its in relatively good condition. Needs a floor but the drivetrain and frame are in great shape. Its a red SporTruck model. manual steering which is being converted to power within the month, its got the 2.5L 4cyl with the AX-4 4speed. Its a great little 2wd truck and will be a Work In Progress for a month atleast before it gets plated. Going to be a great little truck. I will have a few pictures coming soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenosha Warrior Posted July 29, 2006 Share Posted July 29, 2006 Oops, I forgot to log in before posting. Dumb move. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted July 30, 2006 Share Posted July 30, 2006 welcome mandercheese! you plannin a 4wheel conversion for the beast? cause if so this is the place to look, i can think of at least 3 club members who have done or are doing it we need some pics man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 30, 2006 Share Posted July 30, 2006 Hah, mine looks exactly like the one in your avatar! Pics as soon as I get around to registering for photo-hosting. Its going to stay 2wd as I need a daily driver that is cheap on insurance (I'm 17) The name Commander Cheese is just a slight play on Comanche. Coman= Commander, Che= Cheese. My username comes from my name (Rob) and the fact that I am a die-hard MOPAR fan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 all that matters for insurance is what the VIN says, theyre not gonna crawl under it and look ;) (I'm 17 as well, and boy do i love the loww insurance on this thing) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 My insurance (State Farm) and I had a big go-round when I converted mine. They go by the VIN, not by what's actually under the rig :nuts: IT's both good and bad, tho......good is that the premium is cheaper, but bad if I ever file a claim to get anything replaced driveline-wise. I doubt they'd honor it, but I had them put a letter I wrote in my file saying the truck is 4WD but they refuse to insure it as such because of the VIN. But, considering it's an almost 20 yr old vehicle, I'll take my chances :D Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenosha Warrior Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 Finally figured out ImageShack! Here's a quick look-see at my '89 MJ. It is a bone-stock, no-option truck. Just heat, the radio is shot, bench seat. 2.5L straight 4 and the AX-4 4speed manual. Only 2wd but when I get another $#!&mobile for a DD, Ill dump some cash into my 'manche and maker'er 4x4, a few inches taller and a whole lot beefier with the H.O Straight-6. Anyone ever done slant-6 conversions? I have a 1968 Mopar Slant-6 at my disposal, and might be able to track down the 4speed it has. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 I believe there might be some clearance issue with the slant six, but they could be overcame with a lil modding.. I think that would be a great swap there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 When he says 'modding' he means cut the unibody and inner fenders off flush with the front of the cab, and make new frame rails in the front, and bend up some tube to hang the sheetmetal from. While you're at it, he strongly advises chopping the rear off, and again adding more tube, and a full exo cage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted August 2, 2006 Share Posted August 2, 2006 When he says 'modding' he means cut the unibody and inner fenders off flush with the front of the cab, and make new frame rails in the front, and bend up some tube to hang the sheetmetal from. While you're at it, he strongly advises chopping the rear off, and again adding more tube, and a full exo cage. :rotfl2: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted August 2, 2006 Share Posted August 2, 2006 Thats just too funny :cheers: but you read my mind :wrench: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenosha Warrior Posted August 2, 2006 Share Posted August 2, 2006 ugh, this thing is driving me off the wall :) Ive gotten it down to a rough $500 to get it roadworthy. Hopefully it will be on the road by September, if not, I'm going to have a fun time biking to work in the snow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 ugh, this thing is driving me off the wall :)Ive gotten it down to a rough $500 to get it roadworthy. Hopefully it will be on the road by September, if not, I'm going to have a fun time biking to work in the snow. I "roughly" had mine figured to $950. $4000 later... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenosha Warrior Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 Mechanic just over from my house says that to have new calipers, rotors, drums, pads/shoes and the split flex line replaced it would come to just over $700. I'm doing it all myself, so its just parts I'll have to pay. And if its half finished by september, Ill toss some old plates on it, drive it to school and finish it up there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 I too have to replace all of the front brake parts (even though I have 2 complete axles to choose from), but I find it much less painful than when I replace other parts. All new brakes are an infinitely good thing. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 I did all new brakes on mine when I did the axle swap, it's cheap. I bet I've got $200 in brakes and that includes new hardlines on the rear axle and a new rubber line in the rear. New Calipers, pads, rotors up front New wheel cylinders, shoes and hardware out back. my drums were good so I reused those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenosha Warrior Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 Drums are trashed, wheel cylinder is in tip-top shape, hardware is ok, front end needs rotors, calipers, pads and the rubber lines in the front. its in really good cond't for sitting in a garage for 6 months. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenosha Warrior Posted September 2, 2006 Share Posted September 2, 2006 $900 total for the truck and parts so far. Sheet metal is ready for the floor. Just need to run the brake lines and throw the floor in. Soon to attack the steering box that is trashed. Maybe some tie-rod ends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenosha Warrior Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 Stuff Still to do: Steering linkage and joints. Floor brake lines e-brake. Things Done: Sheet metal cutouts for the floor Brake assemblies replaced Reverse lights working Still needs small stuff like oil and some antifreeze. Its coming along, slowly but surely. I'm extatic that my reverse lights are working! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GirsMJ86 Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 my insurance is really cheap (around here) for mine. mine is an 86 4x4 and i am only 19. the price is $60 and it is with drive. they seemed to be the cheapest for basic ins for these things. they were even cheaper for my 2wd elim. might be something to look into. Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenosha Warrior Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 We have brakes! Finally all the fooling around with the rear end is complete. Its down on the ground, no more jackstands. Now to complete the steering and floor :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenosha Warrior Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 Woo!, it needs ball joints.... I found a donor MJ though. A guy my dad works with has one, I6, '88 LWB. I am going to get a good look at it, its been in an accident. I'm going to yank the PS pump, hoses, lines and box from it, if its accutally worth salvaging, I'm going to swap in my old 'Armstrong' steering and get another MJ to myself ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 Woo!, it needs ball joints.... I found a donor MJ though. A guy my dad works with has one, I6, '88 LWB. I am going to get a good look at it, its been in an accident. I'm going to yank the PS pump, hoses, lines and box from it, if its accutally worth salvaging, I'm going to swap in my old 'Armstrong' steering and get another MJ to myself ! Dual MJs! You're on the path to MJ success. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenosha Warrior Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 Woo!, it needs ball joints.... I found a donor MJ though. A guy my dad works with has one, I6, '88 LWB. I am going to get a good look at it, its been in an accident. I'm going to yank the PS pump, hoses, lines and box from it, if its accutally worth salvaging, I'm going to swap in my old 'Armstrong' steering and get another MJ to myself ! Dual MJs! You're on the path to MJ success. And at 17 too. I'm hoping the LWB is in decent shape, I'm really hoping. I may do a bit of work and sell the sucker and put some more new parts on my little red MJ. if its not, Parts Truck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hot Rod Jeep Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 Dual MJs! You're on the path to MJ success. Not to be confused with "dualing" MJ's. :D 8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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