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Operation: 33DD


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Like most of you I suffer from Sick Old Truck Syndrome (SOTS) and the only cure is to find an old rig and bring it back ;)6

 

I picked up my 88 mj yesterday, it has over 210000 km (around 130000 miles), 4l 4x4 with 5.5 inch rough country lift, or so the seller claims as the rough country site lists 4.5 and 6.5 inch lifts, at any rate its lifted. The pukeguts tranny it does shift smoothly so I am in no rush to replace that, unless an ax15 falls in my lap for really cheap.

 

The immediate needs are, rip out the carpet, new windshield, exhaust from catback, quick tune up/brake job, gas tank straps and maybe new shocks in the back.

 

I already got a set of power leather seats from an xj last summer, they were free so I took them to use as garage seats, but now it looks like they are going to end up in the truck.

 

I would like to have a daily driver running on 33 inch tires, but dd33 doesn't have the same appeal as 33dd ;)

 

I was waffling between and xj and an mj and the posts/projects I saw on comanche club convinced me that mj was the way to go. If I am lucky I can get it on the road, legally, in a couple of week and then go from there. My wife thinks I'm crazy, I know I'm crazy.

 

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http://picasaweb.google.com/canajien/ComanchePt1#

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Doesnt look like a bad one to start with so long as you didnt buy it for too much $$$. Welcome to the site!!!!

 

If your plans go through and you do end up putting 33" tires on it, you might consider swapping out rear axles. Dana 35's arent much good for anything over stock configurations. Too many of us here know that from finding it out the hard way...:thumbsup:

 

Any Questions - just ask and you usually get an answer. Again - Welcome!

 

Oh - one more thing - your grille is on upside down :clapping:

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Welcome to the site. Can't wait to follow your build.

 

I'm not sure the speedometer is original, though, as I didn't think 180km/h / 110mph speedometers were an option on MJs. ( XJ only?).

 

Either way, seems like you know what you're doing. Good luck!

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it was the best deal I could find, for these reasons: it was fairly close to home (less than two hours), it didn't have as much rust as the others I had seen, and it was the only 4x4 available, and it was cheaper than all the others I had seen

 

up front I am thinking of a late 90's xj axle with the bigger u-joints and a 4.1 gear, if not then I will at least try to swap out to the bigger axle shafts

 

in the rear I will probably go with an exploder 8.8 with the 4.1 gear, that way I can get some rear discs at the same time and use some spacers to move the wheel's out to match the front

 

as for the grille, its going to end up on the floor as it will be getting replaced with a newer header panel/grille

 

the passenger rocker is rusted so I am thinking of replacing both sides with a piece of 2x4 3/16ths steel, it should beef it up a little bit as

 

the whole deal cost me less than $400, after unloading the extra parts it came with, I think that works out to about $320 US

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Welcome to the site. Can't wait to follow your build.

 

I'm not sure the speedometer is original, though, as I didn't think 180km/h / 110mph speedometers were an option on MJs. ( XJ only?).

 

Either way, seems like you know what you're doing. Good luck!

 

interesting to know that, this sort of stuff is why I like this site

 

the cluster doesn't have a tach in it, so I am hoping to swap it out for one that does include the tach later

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nice find. you will need to cut out the rusted through section of frame, and get inside the frame to clean it out somehow, then plate it in the rear...that's a nasty hole and is just a precursor to the arse end falling off.

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nice find. you will need to cut out the rusted through section of frame, and get inside the frame to clean it out somehow, then plate it in the rear...that's a nasty hole and is just a precursor to the arse end falling off.

 

Got plenty of 2x4 for that. I'm going to cut the cancer out and spray the inside with rust bullet before patching it and fish plating the patch. If I get a temp permit next week then its off to the body shop for a windshield and if I am lazy I may just let the muffler shop do the exhaust.

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I spent an hour going over everything today and the only item that doesn't work is the horn, holy crap, I think I lucked out with this one!!! I haven't taken out the carpet yet, but it makes a solid sound when I tap it with a hammer from below, still expecting it to be ugly once the carpet is ripped out though.

 

I'll check the fuse and relay for the horn later this week, for now I ordered the parts to finish the lift, the p.p.o. only did the front, and the p.o. didn't get the parts from him to finish it, the rear is still stock. I also managed to find a centre console for only $50 ($40 US today) which I will pick up on Friday. I guess I will be tearing into the interior this weekend!

 

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http://picasaweb.google.com/canajien/ComanchePt2#

 

if anyone knows how to modify if for a manual transmission then let me know. I'm guessing I can just remove the plate that goes around the auto shifter and fix the shift boot for the stick in it

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  • 2 weeks later...

finally started to make some progress, it was worse than I originally suspected, as I was cleaning things up to begin welding it became aparrant that the frame was a lot thinner than I suspected, so there are lots of patches everywhere.

 

I used 3/16 2x4 cut and shaped with an angle grinder to patch around the cab mount, 3/16 angle for the frame rail in front of the cab mount and a 3/16 plate to tie the two sides together

 

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outside near the cab mount

 

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under the passenger side on the outside

 

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underneath the frame

 

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inside near the cab mount

 

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under the passenger side on the inside

 

http://picasaweb.google.ca/canajien/ComanchePt3#

 

it's a bit rough, but that was the first time I have ever repaired a frame, and its a pain when you are laying on your back, maybe I should look into a lift for the garage ;)

 

at any rate it should do the trick for now, I just sprayed some primer to keep it from rusting until tomorrow when I will strip the primer and hit it with a coat of rust bullet, I will also run a bead of seam sealer along the gaps and then give it a spray of undercoating until the summer. At some point during the summer I will hopefully be able to just plate the both sides of the rail and the bottom from the spring mount forward, if I don't have a plasma cutter by then I guess I will just take some cardboard templates to the steel shop and see how much they will charge cut some up for me, but I plan to have a plasma by then.

 

I still have the area over the rear passenger side wheel, and while I was under there I noticed that the frame was rotting near the fuel filter, hopefully the weather will co-operate this week and I can get it all patched up by next weekend.

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Great progress - keep it up. :cheers:

 

I have got to say you have the best build title. Bumped Wrenches Gone Wild down to second place. I might be the only sick one on here, but I never read it as Operation: Daily Driver :nuts: . Catches me off guard to often image_209027.gif

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  • 2 weeks later...
I have got to say you have the best build title. Bumped Wrenches Gone Wild down to second place. I might be the only sick one on here, but I never read it as Operation: Daily Driver :nuts: . Catches me off guard to often image_209027.gif

 

sick minds think alike!!

 

more progress to report:

 

today I cleaned the surface rust off the gas tank and gave it 3 coats of rust inhibitor spray from princess auto (pa is the hoser version of harbour freight and the only problem people up here seem to have with it is that they will be out of stock on some parts, they never have enough grade 8 hardware when I am there and they never have a leather welding jacket in my size either), now the tank is shiny and black, its not like new but it's better than it was so it should be good for a few more years now

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got driver side frame rail under the cab done last weekend, it is now patched and plated, but I haven't cleaned it up like the passenger side, ran out of primer

 

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and today, in between coats of paint on the gas tank I started to repair the frame over the rear passenger wheel

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the bump stops were gone on both sides, so I am going to have to think about what I want to do for that, I may end up mount a couple of bump stops on the axle and the reinforcing the frame where the bump stops meet, but I haven't made my mind up on that yet

 

http://picasaweb.google.ca/canajien/ComanchePt4#

 

if all goes well I can get the rear drivers side frame done also and then get it cleaned up, put on a coat of rust bullet and put the bed back on

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  • 4 weeks later...

Since I last updated:

 


  • -completed patching and plating the frame, gave it a coat of rust bullet and 2 coats of black anti rust paint
    -replaced the gasket in the oil pan, 95% of the leak is gone, it looks like the rest is coming from the rear main seal, damnit
    -replaced the bed, unfortunately it looks like I am going to need to add a couple of washers to the rear, the rear wasn't bolted down when I got it and I just used a couple of washers that were the same thickness as the ones that were on the front section, I may just remove the front ones and double up the rear instead
    -added longer shackles to the rear leaves and cut two coils out of the front springs, it looks a lot better now, and the scary body roll when cornering has mostly disappeared
    -replaced all the hard brake line from under the cab to the rear axle, installed the longer 95 dakota rear brake hose, replaced the hard lines on the rear axle and installed new wheel cylinders
    -started working on getting it ready for windshield replacement, took care of the clip posts by grinding them off and started to work on the rust spots above the windshield, I cleaned out all of the rust and gave it a coat of rust bullet, I will probably sand it and use another couple of coats to fill in the low spots a bit more before applying bondo, but there is one hole to patch

 

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http://picasaweb.google.ca/canajien/ComanchePt5#

 

this weekend I am off to pick up a d30 from a 95 cherokee with 3.55 gears for the front, and a chryco 8.5 with 3.55 for the rear, along with a previously enjoyed windshield that is crack and chip free

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Nice MJ. I contemplated it, saw it on Kijiji.

 

Question, are you ditching the bench? I'm looking for one and I've got factory MJ buckets WITH proper brackets to trade?

 

I am ditching the bench, I hope to get it out in the next two weeks, but I have to warn you that the sliders do not work properly and there is some rust damage. If you are still interested in it I will try to get some pics of the brackets for you and I will be careful when removing it. The passenger side is pretty good, but the driver side bracket is a bit like swiss cheese.

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I've been shopping:

 

95 XJ Doors with power windows and locks, I made sure to get the cross wiring harness to tie between the doors, but there were no keys, I guess I will figure that one out later

IMG00031-20090427-1836.jpg

relatively rust free, which can't be said for my current doors

 

Dana 30 with 3.55 gears of a 95XJ with abs & Chryco 8.25 (3.55 gears as well) from a 92XJ

IMG00032-20090427-1836.jpg

these are a upgrade over my factory D30/D35 combo with 3.07 gears, these axles were cheaper than just getting a new ring and pinion for only one of the axles I have now

 

AX15 from a 95 YJ

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rebuilt last summer and he threw in the transfer case, clutch, flywheel and pedals, the pukeguts tranny I have now is running pretty smooth but we all know it will blow up eventually, and when it does, I already have a replacement

 

http://picasaweb.google.ca/canajien/ComanchePt6#

 

I have now broken the $1k barrier (about 800 in USD) along with a replacement rocker and two new floor pans, and aside from a couple of quarts of tremclad, some herculiner, a new head unit/stereo and a new windshield I don't have any plans for any other new/old parts unless necessary, half the fun has been searching and bargaining for the goodies, the other half is putting it all together and making it work

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Nice MJ. I contemplated it, saw it on Kijiji.

 

Question, are you ditching the bench? I'm looking for one and I've got factory MJ buckets WITH proper brackets to trade?

 

I am ditching the bench, I hope to get it out in the next two weeks, but I have to warn you that the sliders do not work properly and there is some rust damage. If you are still interested in it I will try to get some pics of the brackets for you and I will be careful when removing it. The passenger side is pretty good, but the driver side bracket is a bit like swiss cheese.

 

Rust issues are nothing new, I'll take it. The last MJ I had, the bench was adjustable via hammer :rotfl2:

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then I will be careful about removing it, let me know when you are going to be near Toronto, I'm without a vehicle until I finish this truck so I can't really come out to meet you with it

 

Not an issue either, have a trans to grab in Milton and a friend down on Lakeshore Blvd West. Probably a couple weeks 'afore I make it up. Still a few kinks to work out on my own MJ

 

Awesome though, thank you.

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The good news:

IMG00001-20090502-1448.jpg

I put the wheels and tires that were for my wrongler on to the truck, the 29 x 10.5 trxs tires with powdercoated factory wheels look much better than the cruddy 26.5 x 9 no name winter tires on the dirty old stock wheels, they also give a better ride

 

I also fixed my tail light problem viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16135

 

the bad news:

it still stalls when I hit the brakes, and I am not sure why, it doesn't behave that way everyday, I guess I will have to start checking all the sensors/connections viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16351

 

there is a buzzing sound from the steering wheel when I hit the horn button, but no horn sound, I hope its just a short somewhere

 

fuel gauge does not work after cluster swap viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16363

 

I guess I am going to need to give up on finding a tailgate in better shape than what I have now, so I will have to start by putting a new handle on it, I've seen that the S10 handle is a direct swap, so aside from fixing the rust it should be easy

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  • 1 month later...

Finally got the time to take out the bench seat and tear out the carpet, and much to no one's surprise the floors are rotted:

 

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driver side (it's like paper)

 

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the passenger side is a bit better

 

good thing I have some new floorpans coming on Friday

 

However, its not all bad news, look what I got for free:

 

IMG00018-20090617-1055.jpg

89 eliminator, 2wd

the engine doesn't leak at all, but there is no interior, and the floors are about as bad as what I already have, but the "frame" is still solid

 

the bed is in better shape than the black one so I am going to swap it over, yank the engine and tranny (its a pukeguts but it still shifts smooth), take everything else I need out of it to put on the black one and give the left overs away, all I hope to be left with is the cab and "frame"

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IMG00018-20090617-1055.jpg

89 eliminator, 2wd

the engine doesn't leak at all, but there is no interior, and the floors are about as bad as what I already have, but the "frame" is still solid

 

the bed is in better shape than the black one so I am going to swap it over, yank the engine and tranny (its a pukeguts but it still shifts smooth), take everything else I need out of it to put on the black one and give the left overs away, all I hope to be left with is the cab and "frame"

Do I spy an across the bed toolbox? Is it metal? I "might" be interested....

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IMG00018-20090617-1055.jpg

89 eliminator, 2wd

the engine doesn't leak at all, but there is no interior, and the floors are about as bad as what I already have, but the "frame" is still solid

 

the bed is in better shape than the black one so I am going to swap it over, yank the engine and tranny (its a pukeguts but it still shifts smooth), take everything else I need out of it to put on the black one and give the left overs away, all I hope to be left with is the cab and "frame"

Do I spy an across the bed toolbox? Is it metal? I "might" be interested....

 

you do see an across the bed toolbox, but its plastic, it is free, but it is in toronto

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IMG00018-20090617-1055.jpg

89 eliminator, 2wd

the engine doesn't leak at all, but there is no interior, and the floors are about as bad as what I already have, but the "frame" is still solid

 

the bed is in better shape than the black one so I am going to swap it over, yank the engine and tranny (its a pukeguts but it still shifts smooth), take everything else I need out of it to put on the black one and give the left overs away, all I hope to be left with is the cab and "frame"

Do I spy an across the bed toolbox? Is it metal? I "might" be interested....

 

you do see an across the bed toolbox, but its plastic, it is free, but it is in toronto

Well that is why I put the "might" in there. I will pass on a plastic one that far away. Thanks anyways.

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  • 2 months later...

I am still plodding away despite the fact I may have to sell it...

 

The axle swap is about 75% done, I just need to redo the brakes and brake lines, but all of the hard work getting the old axles out and putting the "newer" ones in has been completed.

 

I also found a local guy who builds leaf springs for large trucks. He built two new main leafs for me (I broke one of the main leafs taking out the old axle), and now that they are in with the newer axle sitting on them it looks like I will get another inch or two of lift in the rear, and it only cost me $160, much cheaper than getting junkyard leafs. Not quite new but better than used.

 

Once the brakes are done I will get to work on replacing the floors.

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