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Where does the water come from (Update...Now Windshield!)


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Ya know.........I've been following your water woes for a long time, never thinking it could be the windshield leaking :doh:

 

Very common.........if the windshield was not installed properly.

 

To pull the metal molding off, you'll need one of these tools, you should be able to pick up one at an auto parts store.

 

http://www.crlaurence.com/productimages ... _14133.gif

 

A little better tool for this would be this one (the one I have :D )

 

http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showl ... elID=21151

 

You work the tool under the molding to "un-hook" the plastic clips......that look like this-

 

http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showl ... delID=3780

 

If you do this right.......you can re-use the clips to re-attach the metal molding ;)

 

I would use urethane sealant, which is what is used for setting the windshield in the first place, and you can get this at an auto parts store -

 

http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showl ... elID=19838

 

That would be better than silicone sealant :brows: And make sure you get it as a "Primer-less" type.

 

Run a good bead across the top of the windshield/body and then down the sides.

 

Don't glob it on, or all over, it will ooze out in time, and you'll have trouble getting the molding back on, just a nice clean bead, and tool it if you need to.

 

Now......this has got to fix your problem :headpop:

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Ya know.........I've been following your water woes for a long time, never thinking it could be the windshield leaking :doh:

 

Very common.........if the windshield was not installed properly.

 

To pull the metal molding off, you'll need one of these tools, you should be able to pick up one at an auto parts store.

 

http://www.crlaurence.com/productimages ... _14133.gif

 

A little better tool for this would be this one (the one I have :D )

 

http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showl ... elID=21151

 

You work the tool under the molding to "un-hook" the plastic clips......that look like this-

 

http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showl ... delID=3780

 

If you do this right.......you can re-use the clips to re-attach the metal molding ;)

 

I would use urethane sealant, which is what is used for setting the windshield in the first place, and you can get this at an auto parts store -

 

http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showl ... elID=19838

 

That would be better than silicone sealant :brows: And make sure you get it as a "Primer-less" type.

 

Run a good bead across the top of the windshield/body and then down the sides.

 

Don't glob it on, or all over, it will ooze out in time, and you'll have trouble getting the molding back on, just a nice clean bead, and tool it if you need to.

 

Now......this has got to fix your problem :headpop:

 

Thanks Wildman...I actually watched it flow from the heater box and from up behind the fuse box, so I knew if was comeing in there... I didn't know about the windshield one until today...

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Yep.......never thought about the windshield seal :headpop:

 

Once you pull the molding off, you'll be able to see if the urethane is real lean in there, and some times you'll see the edge of the windshield turn cloudy white, that's were the water is working it way into the plastic laminate sheet.

 

Just don't glob the urethane in there, and also, clean it real good before you add any new sealant, like wash it out, and then wipe it down with some paint thinner, and let it evaporate before you add the new sealant.

 

Man, I hope this solve your water problem........I mean your only up to 9 pages on this :roll:

 

We need the cyber space for other things :razz:

 

 

:teehee:

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Personally, I would just have the windshield replaced so that 1) You can do something about the rust in the windshield channel that is there due to it leaking. 2) Have a professional with all the right tools do it and warranty his work from leaks. 3) Have the newer rubber seal put on and get rid of the molding.

Just my 2 cents but with all the trouble you've had, I'd hate to see you waste time putting RTV on it just to see it leak someplace else. Cut the Cancer out and move on.

 

:cheers:

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Personally, I would just have the windshield replaced so that 1) You can do something about the rust in the windshield channel that is there due to it leaking. 2) Have a professional with all the right tools do it and warranty his work from leaks. 3) Have the newer rubber seal put on and get rid of the molding.

Just my 2 cents but with all the trouble you've had, I'd hate to see you waste time putting RTV on it just to see it leak someplace else. Cut the Cancer out and move on.

 

:cheers:

 

Well, I just need a big @$$ crack in it so i could get my insurance to replace it.... What's a new windshield costs if I'm paying out of pocket?

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A new windshield installed around here is $160-$170.

 

Don't know about the CA prices......but might be worth calling a glass shop and pricing it :dunno:

 

And, the one glass shop I know........If I say it's cracked, he'll agree, and let the insurance pay for it, but like my commercial policy........I need to pay the first $100 on it anyways :fs1:

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Wade, You can do it on your home owners insurance. Just say one of the kids hit it with a rock while it was parked in the driveway. My mother did this when one of my kids broke hers. Might want to double check tho, before the kids start throwing.

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Wade, You can do it on your home owners insurance. Just say one of the kids hit it with a rock while it was parked in the driveway. My mother did this when one of my kids broke hers. Might want to double check tho, before the kids start throwing.

 

I know I have zero deduct on WS replaces on my TJ and my Tahoe, but I don't think I added it to my MJ... I was thinking it was $250 deduct otherwise (and I wanted to go as cheap as i could for the MJ...) might be fishy if I swapped to Zero deduct and a few days later tried to open a claim for replacement.

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Wade, You can do it on your home owners insurance. Just say one of the kids hit it with a rock while it was parked in the driveway. My mother did this when one of my kids broke hers. Might want to double check tho, before the kids start throwing.

 

I know I have zero deduct on WS replaces on my TJ and my Tahoe, but I don't think I added it to my MJ... I was thinking it was $250 deduct otherwise (and I wanted to go as cheap as i could for the MJ...) might be fishy if I swapped to Zero deduct and a few days later tried to open a claim for replacement.

 

Yeah, that might look a little funny

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It rained pretty good for a good while over night last night...NOT A DRIP inside the rig, 100% dry on both sides... I laid a couple paper towels under the dash and about where I saw the drip from the windshield yesterday. So I'll probably still get the hose out once it's not so rainy and make sure, but I might not have to goto the trouble of insurance fraud to replace my windshield...yes it probably needs to go eventually, and I can call for the best installed price. I'd like to get my interior reinstalled at some point (the growling of the tranny and knocking of the engine are so much more noticeable with no carpet, seats, console, etc! 8)

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Another wetness update (or lack of)...

 

We got about 2" of rain last night...sideways, wind, up, down and every direction (a pretty good storm)...

 

Went to look in the MJ this AM... Not a DRIP inside... I still has some paper towels laid out PERFECTLY dry... I'm so happy that I can finally reinstall my interior!!!

 

Wade

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  • 1 month later...
Thanks, I'll take a look... I have to go buy some baby powder too... you'd think with kids I'd have some...but I guess not...

 

It this the part you are talking about?

http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/cgi-bi ... d=Yes&nh=3

 

43358882.jpg

 

Hello - long time no post! Warm weather is back, and it's time to finally get my MJ sealed and carpet put back in!

 

Does anyone have a photo of exactly where that part goes?

 

Also, I think I've whipped all my leaks except for two. One is the vent window on the driver side. Are new vent window seals still available, or should I try a home-made remedy? (I have one in mind) I even see where pollen pretended to be baby powder and ran in to the top edge of the driver door panel!

 

My second leak has me a little perplexed. After two rains, I opened the door, and right where the red arrow points, I had water standing - maybe the area of two quarters side by side - with the water trickling down where the inner trim/seal has a part in it.

 

I looked under the door edge, and even with baby powder's help, I can't tell where the water came from. Has anyone had it pool in this same spot? All I know to do is gently hose the door down with it open to see if water is going through the door and coming out right where the bottom edge of the door panel meets the door.

 

IMG_3405cr-rs.jpg

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Well, I drug out more baby powder and got the hose out.

 

On both driver and passenger side, water is going through the door and coming out where the bottom edge of the door panel meets the door. Is this an issue with the window trim/seal on the outside, or is this an issue with something inside the door where water should be diverted to drain only out of the drain holes? All drain holes have water coming out, so it doesn't appear to be a blockage causing the water to back flow.

 

How difficult is it to remove the door panels and reinstall them without them becoming rattle traps? I wonder if I can make silicone dams in there to direct water to the drain holes only?

 

Note: For the passenger side, I got this from running water on the open door carefully just hosing the windows.

 

passenger side:

IMG_7685cr-rs.jpg

 

On the driver side, with the door open, I only got water coming in the vent window. After the door was closed, I got the water to come out from between the door panel and door like the passenger side did with it open.

 

driver side:

IMG_7686cr-rs.jpg

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