jpdocdave Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 so i'm gonna pick up that big ton in a month or so. i got some questions about lifts. i've lifted countless xj's and wranglers. but not mj's. can i just spring over the rear? the d shaft is longer, so i'm sure you can go higher without as many vibe problems. do mj's need sye kits? how tall can you go without changing the d shaft? same for the front i guess. if i spring over the back, how much do i need to lift the front to make it level? thanks for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroader461 Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 all of your questions were just answered a few topics down from this one :cheers: searching nets results: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14003 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 A SYE is not needed on a Comanche, longer drive shaft may or may not be needed. I know it is not needed at 4.5". To match 6.5" lift with 4wd rear springs you'd need ~6.5" lift up front. If using 2wd rear springs you'd need ~5.5" up front to match. Lifting the front is exactly the same as on a Cherokee. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpdocdave Posted January 12, 2009 Author Share Posted January 12, 2009 thanks guys, does the rear change with the metric ton package? it has an extra leaf i believe, how much will that change the rear w/ spring over? 6 1/2 up front still be level? so sounds like i don't need to change the rear d shaft, what about the front? second question, which auto trans is in a 90 4.0, w/ a column shift. is it the aw4? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 Front shaft should be fine. Yes, it's the AW-4. Shop us a picture of your leafs. Some guys have thought they had a big ton, but it turned out that the previous owner shoved some random AAL in there. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpdocdave Posted January 12, 2009 Author Share Posted January 12, 2009 good, i love the aw4 trans, bullet proof. here's the pics of the rear end. i asked a bunch of questions to see if someone put the stickers and crap on the truck, or if it is the big ton. it has 5 leafs and a d44 rear end, what do you guys think? and thanks again for all the help http://www.winkflash.com/photo/imagew2. ... 432180&z=0 http://www.winkflash.com/photo/imagew2. ... 432316&z=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 Looks genuine to me. Someone has definitely been messing with it though as the arm on the rear load sensing valve is completely out of place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpdocdave Posted January 12, 2009 Author Share Posted January 12, 2009 Looks genuine to me. Someone has definitely been messing with it though as the arm on the rear load sensing valve is completely out of place. oohh, please explain. the thing is all stock, and its been owned by a now 80 yr old man since new. is this a proportioning valve for the brakes, or what? it has had some poorly engineered fixes though. he had new bumpers put on, and the bedsides and fenders painted, but not the tailgate and doors :nuts: mechanically sound, and many new parts though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 I think this should make it easier than trying to explain it in words on here... :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpdocdave Posted January 12, 2009 Author Share Posted January 12, 2009 thanks for illustrating, i really appreciate it. any input as to if i soa the rear end, with that extra leaf how tall the front needs to be to level it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 thanks for illustrating, i really appreciate it. any input as to if i soa the rear end, with that extra leaf how tall the front needs to be to level it? You will need 6.5" for the front to match the SOA using those leaf springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpdocdave Posted January 12, 2009 Author Share Posted January 12, 2009 thanks for illustrating, i really appreciate it. any input as to if i soa the rear end, with that extra leaf how tall the front needs to be to level it? You will need 6.5" for the front to match the SOA using those leaf springs. so there's no difference being a big ton truck? the reason i ask is everyone said 6.5 without it being a big ton, so 6.5 is still gonna make the big ton level? the truck doesn't really sit very hi, so maybe thats true, just makin sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 6.5" is an approximation. You bed will be roughly 6.5" higher than it currently sits, but that's relative to how it is now. If you somehow added a 6.5" puck to the front, then the truck will sit level (assuming it sits level now). But you'll be adding brand new coils to the front. And they are likely to lift the rated amount, but that doesn't mean they will necessarily match your current leafs, which may have sagged a little over the years like mine. Personally, I'd go with a 4.5" to 5.5" lift kit, and if the rear end sits too high, I'd either add a little pick to the front, or throw some crap in the bed like a truck is supposed to have. Bottom line, it's hard to predict how your truck will turn out when using 20 year old leafs. Oh, and the metric/big/heavy ton package sits about the same height as a regular 4wd MJ. But it will better resists settling after you add the big spare tires, gear etc. Also should resist spring-wrap better. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpdocdave Posted January 12, 2009 Author Share Posted January 12, 2009 6.5" is an approximation. You bed will be roughly 6.5" higher than it currently sits, but that's relative to how it is now. If you somehow added a 6.5" puck to the front, then the truck will sit level (assuming it sits level now). But you'll be adding brand new coils to the front. And they are likely to lift the rated amount, but that doesn't mean they will necessarily match your current leafs, which may have sagged a little over the years like mine. Personally, I'd go with a 4.5" to 5.5" lift kit, and if the rear end sits too high, I'd either add a little pick to the front, or throw some crap in the bed like a truck is supposed to have. Bottom line, it's hard to predict how your truck will turn out when using 20 year old leafs. Oh, and the metric/big/heavy ton package sits about the same height as a regular 4wd MJ. But it will better resists settling after you add the big spare tires, gear etc. Also should resist spring-wrap better. :thumbsup: perfect, thanks a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComancheKid45 Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 Alright well just outta curiosity i decided to finally look at my rear proportioning valve and it seems someone has messed with it before.....the arm in sitting straight pointing up and wired tight (mechanics wire) around the bracket. Would this cause the rear tires to lock easyer and produce somewhat poor braking? I can easly adjust it but its defently not pointing to the right like the pic shows and its been in that posistion for along time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigd44889 Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 yep that will cause brack prob. that needs fixed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 Pointing up is full brake power to the rear. Only good if you have like 1000 pounds of sand in the back. Neutral position for an empty bed is horizontal toward the center of the truck (right if you're looking from behind). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComancheKid45 Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 Alright well here is what i found at 1st glance (thi is taken fron lying underneath it)......it was kinda cool locking up the rear wheels only on my slick driveway and pullin 180s but i knew it wasnt suppossed 2 do that....lol, idk how long its acctually been like this 2, it had 2 of been this way for a good while And here's my fix.....i have no idea where the bar went that connects to the axle so zipties will have 2 work for now...ill keep an eye on it, it should be fine. its pointing to the right as mentioned Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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