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OK after i installed my RK trackbar my steering wheel is turned to the right when the wheels are pointing straight foward...since the pitman arm is notched i can just pull the pitman arm off and move it so is there any other type of adjustment i can make to re-correct my steering wheel...its driving me up a wall :wall:

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No...that sleeve is made for adjusting the steering wheel. It will have not effect on the alignment :cheers:

 

If you turn the one on the centerlink (going from wheel to wheel) you will change the toe setting and cause trouble with driveabililty.

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No...that sleeve is made for adjusting the steering wheel. It will have not effect on the alignment :cheers:

 

If you turn the one on the centerlink (going from wheel to wheel) you will change the toe setting and cause trouble with driveabililty.

 

that doesnt seem right to me....maybe I'm just not seeing it....if i adjust the sleeve on the draglink(which runs from the pitman arm to the pass. knuckle) how is that not going to move my tire out and mess with my alignment....the steering doesnt have a true wheel to wheel centerlink...I'm confused on what your describing

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No...that sleeve is made for adjusting the steering wheel. It will have not effect on the alignment :cheers:

 

If you turn the one on the centerlink (going from wheel to wheel) you will change the toe setting and cause trouble with driveabililty.

 

that doesnt seem right to me....maybe I'm just not seeing it....if i adjust the sleeve on the draglink(which runs from the pitman arm to the pass. knuckle) how is that not going to move my tire out and mess with my alignment....the steering doesnt have a true wheel to wheel centerlink...I'm confused on what your describing

Well its like turning your wheels,,, your toe don't change when you turn the wheel... pitman arm > drag link > adjuster on drag link > pushes/pulls right knuckle > right knuckle pushes/ pulls left side the same amount.

 

Get it? Got it? Good....

 

 

 

 

lol I've been waiting to say that... :nuts:

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Thx for the help everyone...that worked perfectly :cheers:

 

When I got my rig, it had been lifted ~4 inches, and the steering wheel was 180 degrees off. I actualy like it that way, but I didn't like the fact that the turning radius was affected. After readjusting, I thought of pulling the wheel and putting it back "desert style" but I've heard that pulling a Comanche wheel is a big PITA. Basically, I'm just too lazy.

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Thx for the help everyone...that worked perfectly :cheers:

 

When I got my rig, it had been lifted ~4 inches, and the steering wheel was 180 degrees off. I actualy like it that way, but I didn't like the fact that the turning radius was affected. After readjusting, I thought of pulling the wheel and putting it back "desert style" but I've heard that pulling a Comanche wheel is a big PITA. Basically, I'm just too lazy.

 

Actually it's quite easy Jim with any standard steering wheel puller. And since our columns are GM Saginaw, we can select from 100s of pre-airbag steeering wheels that were found on various GM cars and trucks throughout the years. I've had a Z28 "rope" wheel for awhile and now I have a Buick Turbo Regal wheel on it, both with JeeP centercaps. I don't care for the regulation Jeep wheels. :cheers:

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Thx for the help everyone...that worked perfectly :cheers:

 

When I got my rig, it had been lifted ~4 inches, and the steering wheel was 180 degrees off. I actualy like it that way, but I didn't like the fact that the turning radius was affected. After readjusting, I thought of pulling the wheel and putting it back "desert style" but I've heard that pulling a Comanche wheel is a big PITA. Basically, I'm just too lazy.

 

Actually it's quite easy Jim with any standard steering wheel puller. And since our columns are GM Saginaw, we can select from 100s of pre-airbag steeering wheels that were found on various GM cars and trucks throughout the years. I've had a Z28 "rope" wheel for awhile and now I have a Buick Turbo Regal wheel on it, both with JeeP centercaps. I don't care for the regulation Jeep wheels. :cheers:

Hummmm.. :idea: I've always liked the Blazer steering wheels... Whats that Buick wheel look like??

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of course, you have to realize that adjusting the drag-link will lengthen or shorten it, slightly changing the angle of the tie-rod as a result.

 

so yes, it WILL affect your alignment. go ask anyplace that aligns trucks for a living.

 

 

want to fix your steering wheel center? remove the steering shaft from the steering box and turn it accordingly. you can also do this at the firewall.

 

BUT to do it you must disconnect and drop your column and pull it out about 2".

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Hummmm.. :idea: I've always liked the Blazer steering wheels... Whats that Buick wheel look like??

 

I think I've posted this before JT? Since these pics I've blackened out the JeeP logo and circle engraving. This wheel looks almost like the leather Jeep wheel only a bit stouter.

 

 

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fixed my steering wheel and my alignment is still 100% dead on as it was b4 i adjusted it image_209027.gif :clapping:

 

It should be if all you adjusted was the drag link. :D Here's the alignment procedure from the FSM. Notice adjusting the drag link to center the steering wheel is the last step because it does not affect the toe:

 

1. Center front wheels straight ahead and lock steering wheel in centered position. Measure toe and compare to specifications. See ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS.

2. Loosen tie rod adjustment sleeve clamp bolts. See Fig. 3 . Rotate sleeve to adjust toe to specification. See ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS . After adjustment, position clamp bolts so threaded ends face rearward and are angled upward. Tighten sleeve clamp to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS .

3. If necessary, steering wheel can be centered by adjusting the drag link adjustment sleeve. When adjustment is complete, position sleeve as described earlier and tighten to specifications. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS.

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of course, you have to realize that adjusting the drag-link will lengthen or shorten it, slightly changing the angle of the tie-rod as a result.

 

so yes, it WILL affect your alignment. go ask anyplace that aligns trucks for a living.

 

 

want to fix your steering wheel center? remove the steering shaft from the steering box and turn it accordingly. you can also do this at the firewall.

 

BUT to do it you must disconnect and drop your column and pull it out about 2".

 

:huh???: :huh???: :huh???: :huh???:

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of course, you have to realize that adjusting the drag-link will lengthen or shorten it, slightly changing the angle of the tie-rod as a result.

 

so yes, it WILL affect your alignment. go ask anyplace that aligns trucks for a living.

 

 

want to fix your steering wheel center? remove the steering shaft from the steering box and turn it accordingly. you can also do this at the firewall.

 

BUT to do it you must disconnect and drop your column and pull it out about 2".

 

:huh???: :huh???: :huh???: :huh???:

 

just another way to do it. if you read it it does make sense.

 

adjusting the drag-link to pitman arm length DOES change your alignment by fractions of an inch.

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When is the last time you pulled a shaft off of a gear box? They are 99.99999% of the time keyed in some way, (double spline, or usually a flat.)

 

Also, gear boxes have what they call and over center adjustment. The turning torque is slightly higher when the box is centered. If you adjust your wheel any method than what was stated above, you will mess this up.

 

 

Think about this. If your toe is set, your truck is sitting wheels down, and you turn the drag link sleeve. What is more likely to move, the tires or the steering wheel?

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When is the last time you pulled a shaft off of a gear box? They are 99.99999% of the time keyed in some way, (double spline, or usually a flat.)

 

Also, gear boxes have what they call and over center adjustment. The turning torque is slightly higher when the box is centered. If you adjust your wheel any method than what was stated above, you will mess this up.

 

 

Think about this. If your toe is set, your truck is sitting wheels down, and you turn the drag link sleeve. What is more likely to move, the tires or the steering wheel?

 

I have thought about this. I am right. it will affect alignment.

 

last time I redid the shaft...last friday, one last thursday, and I've done about 7 others. the oldest style steering shafts are keyed flat on one side of the steering box's input shaft, so you can only install one way. as you get newer (89 or so) they are not keyed...they go in 360 degrees.

 

 

the proper way to adjust, a combination of methods. it is required to re-align the wheels when centering the steering wheel, if you want to have it be accurate.

otherwise, as you turn OUT the drag-link, making it longer, you change the slope of the angle from point A (pitman) to point C (knuckle) and where the interesection is on the drag-link (point B) will push the left wheel out a bit. this will toe you out.

likewise, if you turn IN the drag-link, shortening the distance between A and C, you create a sharper slope and it will pull the left wheel in and toe you in more.

 

you must do a combination of tie-rod and drag-link adjustment to get yourself alignment correct, and if you don't have full turns left to right with the wheel meeting in the center, you must adjust the steering column by disconnecting it from the steering box AFTER having centered the steering box at equal turns left to right and vice-versa.

 

if you can't follow that, you probably didn't do to well in geometry.

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the proper way to adjust, a combination of methods. it is required to re-align the wheels when centering the steering wheel, if you want to have it be accurate.

otherwise, as you turn OUT the drag-link, making it longer, you change the slope of the angle from point A (pitman) to point C (knuckle) and where the interesection is on the drag-link (point B) will push the left wheel out a bit. this will toe you out.

likewise, if you turn IN the drag-link, shortening the distance between A and C, you create a sharper slope and it will pull the left wheel in and toe you in more.

This is NOT the correct way to do an alignment. The previous statement that the steering box is tighter over-center is correct, and moving the pitman arm on the shaft sets the box so it isn't on-center internally when the wheels are going straight ahead.

 

You ARE correct that if the drag link needs a large adjustment, it can result in an incremental (tiny) change in toe-in. Usually the change is so small that it can't even be measured, or if it shows up it's not worth readjusting the toe to take it out. But, centering the steering wheel SHOULD be done with the adjusting sleeve on the draglink, not by moving the pitman arm. The toe-in should then be re-checked, and corrected IF necessary.

 

Do not attempt to align by removing the pitman arm from the steering box.

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You ARE correct that if the drag link needs a large adjustment, it can result in an incremental (tiny) change in toe-in. Usually the change is so small that it can't even be measured, or if it shows up it's not worth readjusting the toe to take it out. But, centering the steering wheel SHOULD be done with the adjusting sleeve on the draglink, not by moving the pitman arm. The toe-in should then be re-checked, and corrected IF necessary.

 

Do not attempt to align by removing the pitman arm from the steering box.

 

:agree: Verified this recently when I installed an adj. trackbar to center my front axel. After the install, the steering wheel was right off center by about 45 degrees. Brought it to a friend who has an alignment shop. The toe was spot-on on the computer as it was before the trackbar install, and I verified it with equal measurements w. a tape measure between the rear and front sides of the tires just for my own amusement. We then adjusted the drag link to center the steering wheel, took about two complete turns, then re-checked the toe. The computer showed no change in the toe; the tape showed a 1/16" change (eyeball cal is relative :D ). No toe correction was necessary, I trusted the computer more. Maybe after three turns or more of the drag link SLIGHT toe adjustment might be necessary, but it would be neglible. Yeah Eagle, do not attempt to align by removing the pitman arm from the steering box.

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After I installed my currie tracbar, it threw the alignment WAY off as well as the steering wheel center (because I had to center the axle under the truck as the shorter stock tracbar made it off-center by about an inch). When I took it in for alignment I just asked them to straiten the wheel.

 

EDIT: Hornbrod you are posting something similar at the same time. :rotf: but mine adj tracbar did throw off the tow. :dunno:

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