comanche13 Posted December 8, 2008 Posted December 8, 2008 my part time light won't turn off even when i take it back to 2wd and i put it in reverse forward doesent matter the light stays on once in a while it turns off. any idea?
bigd44889 Posted December 8, 2008 Posted December 8, 2008 mine does that every winter i think it the vacume disko not disengaging or just the switch not working for the light u can drive it that way u won't hurt it drove mine all last winter that way
Pete M Posted December 8, 2008 Posted December 8, 2008 A lot of guy's lights have minds of their own. Most years are set off by a vacuum switch in the engine bay over on the passenger side somewhere that is prone to sticking in one position or the other. It's a fairly pointless light that can be on when in 2wd or off when in 4wd. Unless something is broken in the t-case or the shifter linkage is misaligned, when you shift into 2wd, you will be in 2wd. :thumbsup:
BLHTAZ Posted December 8, 2008 Posted December 8, 2008 If you have a 231 t-csae, the vacuum switch that screws in it with the 4 hoses connected it probably sticking. It is a fairly common problem and can sometimes be fixed by just tapping on it a bit to make it release, but sometimes it is stuck and needs to be replaced like mine was.
chunks6067 Posted December 9, 2008 Posted December 9, 2008 when mine was staying on it turned out to be the vacuum switch on the tcase was sticking.. was keeping the axle disco locked went to the local parts store and found it to be in the 'help' section .mine still sticks sometimes but a simple love tap on the switch disengages it
comanche13 Posted December 9, 2008 Author Posted December 9, 2008 i think its just the light cause i tink when i put the lever in 2wd it goes into 2wd anouther question is who has took there vacuum line out and stuck a manual one in there is it worth the 200 bucks??
Motion Offroad Posted December 9, 2008 Posted December 9, 2008 For $200 you can convert your D30 to a 1 piece shaft on the pass side and do away with the CAD, and be much better off (in my opinion). As far as the light goes, it's the blue vacuum line that controls the light. It may be cracked somewhere, or simply undone. I'd track the blue line from the TC upto the cab and see if you can find the issue.
Pete M Posted December 9, 2008 Posted December 9, 2008 If you want to run big tires, then you need to upgrade your shafts because otherwise you're stuck with the puny 260 U-joints. Find some axle shafts from a late model XJ or TJ and kill two birds with one stone (297 shafts and kiss that CAD goodbye forever). :thumbsup:
comanche13 Posted December 10, 2008 Author Posted December 10, 2008 whats CAD mean? so when you mean make it into one piece shaft what do you mean by that? like can i put warn locking hubs in? explain to me?
ComancheKid45 Posted December 10, 2008 Posted December 10, 2008 CAD is Central Axle Disconnect....as for the hub question well I'm clueless on that 1
Pete M Posted December 10, 2008 Posted December 10, 2008 Hubs are completely different than the CAD. The CAD is the big bulge on the passenger side of the diff. On that side is a 2 piece axle shaft. Inside the CAD is a collar that slides over to hold the 2 pieces together, giving you in a sense, a 1 piece shaft like most other Jeeps.
comanche13 Posted December 10, 2008 Author Posted December 10, 2008 so what the hell is cad good for? if i stick the tranny in 4wd it enguages but if i put different axle shafts in it it'll be normal and i can get rid of that stupid vacuum thing all together? can i then put a arb locker in the front?
comanche13 Posted December 10, 2008 Author Posted December 10, 2008 also can i make hubs for the comanche or is it a huge job not really worth it?
BLHTAZ Posted December 10, 2008 Posted December 10, 2008 The CAD is no good. Either shim it or replace the right side shaft with a one piece. also can i make hubs for the comanche or is it a huge job not really worth it?There are conversion kits made for the D30, but you will spend easily over $1000 to do it. Just do a selectable locker as you are talking about and you will be good :thumbsup:
comanche13 Posted December 10, 2008 Author Posted December 10, 2008 when i put the 1997 or up axles in it do i need to take all that vacuum thing out? do i just stick a plate over it instead and plug the vacuum line or what do i need to do?
BLHTAZ Posted December 10, 2008 Posted December 10, 2008 Here is a write up on doing the one piece conversion... http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/yjd30co ... vert-1.htm It does require disassembly of the axle including taking the differential out. That write up gives part numbers for the new seals that you will need as well as the block off plate for the CAD hole. I am pretty sure that Randy's Ring & Pinion sells a conversion kit as well with the seals & block off plate...you provide the axle shaft.
Pete M Posted December 10, 2008 Posted December 10, 2008 Yes, if you convert to a solid axleshaft, you won't need those vcacuum lines any more. MAke sure you cap that last prt where the vacuum originates. And definitely make sure you install the proper seals. Forgot about that. :doh:
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