HKB3 Posted November 2, 2008 Share Posted November 2, 2008 I have searched/google`d/yahoo`d ect can`t find an answer. For those of you that have swapped in a AX-15 in place of the pukegoat BA-10/5, will the BA-10/5 dust plate(1/8" piece of aluminum that goes between the bell housing & the block) work with the AX-15? or do I need one form the AX-15.TIA I scored a 96 AX-15 & 231 for $200 from the pull it yourself yard today, I did not get the aluminum plate :doh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 2, 2008 Share Posted November 2, 2008 I don't remember getting a plate with the AX-15 that went into my 88. So I guess the Peugeot one worked. :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejndssn Posted November 2, 2008 Share Posted November 2, 2008 I've kept mine in the switch with no problems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HKB3 Posted November 3, 2008 Author Share Posted November 3, 2008 Thanks, still gathering parts(new clutch,flywheel,rear main seal,slip yoke eliminator, ect) I will have a write up & pics for the DIY section. I'm off work between Christmas & New Years so I will probably do the swap then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted November 3, 2008 Share Posted November 3, 2008 Do your research on the pilot bushing. All the other stuff is pretty basic, but I have seen that little bushing hold up the whole job and be quite a battle for several people doing this same thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HKB3 Posted November 3, 2008 Author Share Posted November 3, 2008 Do your research on the pilot bushing. All the other stuff is pretty basic, but I have seen that little bushing hold up the whole job and be quite a battle for several people doing this same thing. already got that covered, 1973 CJ with a 304/3speed pilot bearing is supposed to do the trick :thumbsup:, I will be doing the swap at a friends transmission shop so if that doesn`t fit I`ll have options :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 Make sure the crank pilot hole is the size you think it is. Jeep changed the size @'91. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 Do your research on the pilot bushing. All the other stuff is pretty basic, but I have seen that little bushing hold up the whole job and be quite a battle for several people doing this same thing. already got that covered, 1973 CJ with a 304/3speed pilot bearing is supposed to do the trick :thumbsup:, I will be doing the swap at a friends transmission shop so if that doesn`t fit I`ll have options :D Excellent... :D Be sure to get pics to share with us in the "Project" forum. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Sam Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 I have searched/google`d/yahoo`d ect can`t find an answer. For those of you that have swapped in a AX-15 in place of the pukegoat BA-10/5, will the BA-10/5 dust plate(1/8" piece of aluminum that goes between the bell housing & the block) work with the AX-15? or do I need one form the AX-15.TIA I scored a 96 AX-15 & 231 for $200 from the pull it yourself yard today, I did not get the aluminum plate :doh: While you still have the chance go back and pull the master cylinder/slave cylinder setup, pedal assembly, and dual diaphragm booster and newer master cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HKB3 Posted November 10, 2008 Author Share Posted November 10, 2008 I have searched/google`d/yahoo`d ect can`t find an answer. For those of you that have swapped in a AX-15 in place of the pukegoat BA-10/5, will the BA-10/5 dust plate(1/8" piece of aluminum that goes between the bell housing & the block) work with the AX-15? or do I need one form the AX-15.TIA I scored a 96 AX-15 & 231 for $200 from the pull it yourself yard today, I did not get the aluminum plate :doh: While you still have the chance go back and pull the master cylinder/slave cylinder setup, pedal assembly, and dual diaphragm booster and newer master cylinder. Already got the slave/master cylinder, Why would I need the pedal assembly? l`m not worried about upgrading the brakes till later on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 brake light switch changed, in short.... You can modify the "old" style to work with the new booster pushrod, but speaking from personal experience it's easy to screw up. The "new" style is a contact switch that mounts in a bracket in the pedal assembly, and all you have to do is splice two wires. Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 Already got the slave/master cylinder, Why would I need the pedal assembly? l`m not worried about upgrading the brakes till later on I would snatch up the booster (with the thin aluminum plate that goes between it and the fire wall), reservoir, and prop valve. Then you'll have them for later. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now