One question on replacing the rear main seal...

[robfg67]

Just a little history...

 

I replaced the 3 O-rings on the oil filter housing, valve cover gasket, CCV valve and air intake ventilation hoses that run to air box and she still leaks (a small amount of oil), so by processes of elimination the rear main seal is next.

 

So my question is this... I plan on using the 1-piece Fel-Pro oil pan gasket for re-installation of the oil pan. Does RTV need to be placed on the entire surface of the gasket? Both sides?

 

Thanks

[Pete M]

I don't think it's necessary, but I added a very thin layer and essentially glued the gasket to the pan to help hold the gasket steady during installation of the pan. It's an old habit left over from using the multi-piece cork gaskets.

[ejndssn]

I don't think it's necessary, but I added a very thin layer and essentially glued the gasket to the pan to help hold the gasket steady during installation of the pan. It's an old habit left over from using the multi-piece cork gaskets.

your showin your age Pete :laughin: that was all we had to work with back then

[robfg67]

Thanks Pete-I'll put a skim coat of RTV on the pan side only!

[KYMJ]

I just did this-twice. The instructions say to use silicone sparingly where the timing cover meets the block. And....I wound up with a worse oil leak than the RMS. So the next gasket I ran a bead of silicone all the way around the top of the gasket where it meets the block. Overkill, yes, but I didn't want to do it again. I didn't glue the gasket to the pan, but I used dntal floss to "tie" it to the pan. You don't want to knock that sucker loose, I found silicone to be a poor "glue". No more oil leaks.

[PIKE]

I replaced the 3 O-rings on the oil filter housing, valve cover gasket, CCV valve and air intake ventilation hoses that run to air box and she still leaks (a small amount of oil), so by processes of elimination the rear main seal is next

 

don't forget the gasket for the distributor. :cheers: