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Rattlecan "Deluxe Package"


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If the paint molecules don't like each other then the same thing that happened to CW's truck will happen.. If anybody wants to do that they should make a test panel to see if everything will work out together. I pain in the arse but not as bad of a pain if you shoot it and the whole thing bubbles up...

Yeah a test panel is just a square of sheet metal primed,sanded,based, and cleared; just like what you would do your truck.

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Outa curiosity on Sunday I'll sand down an old panel, primer it with rattle can, and spray base with rattle can & let it dry. I' ll shoot half with clear coat after 4 hours & the other half after 12 hours & see what happens. I'd do it tonight or tomorrow but I gotta get outa here in the AM for Portland and will be back Sat sometime. Then I'll throw it in the MJ's bed until when-ever & see what mother nature does to it. Pics will be posted.

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Well I got the panel painted, as you can see below, however, when it came time to apply the clear coat I discovered my 1/2 gal of clear on the shelf had WALKED. I think it went about 50 miles up the road to my son's house. So much for that experiment. So I called my automotive painting son-in-law and asked him about using rattle can paint. He says he has tryed cleared over rattle can. But it had to be layed on within a 30-60 minute time frame (drying) after the paint was applied & it had to have the hardener in it. It always faded early and never lasted more than 10-12 months before peeling & other problems showed up do to non compatability (as you mentioned) of the chemicals in the products. Image Not Found

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I just rattle-canned my hood vents, four coats base, flash dry 1/2 hour between coats, let dry overnight, then three coats clear, again 1/2 hour between coats. The finish came out great, no milking or bubbles, although I'm not real happy with the color match. I made sure the clear coat was sprayed on a low humidity day.

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I just rattle-canned my hood vents, four coats base, flash dry 1/2 hour between coats, let dry overnight, then three coats clear, again 1/2 hour between coats. The finish came out great, no milking or bubbles, although I'm not real happy with the color match. I made sure the clear coat was sprayed on a low humidity day.

And this was rattle can clear, right? DupliColor?

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I have a can of 2-part clear I picked up at the paint store. It has a valve you "pop" on the bottom that mixes the hardener for you then you just spray it. It was pretty expensive at 20 bucks a can but it is somewhere around 25 oz of fluid. Havent used it yet. The bad thing about it is it only has a shelf life of about 8 or 10 hours, but thats pretty good for clear... It was made by SEM I believe.

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Single stage LIMCO with a gallon of paint, gallon of reducer, and a quart of hardener will run about $150.

 

I was able to fully repaint 4 cherokees with 1 gallon of LIMCO black.

 

 

This was a hood repainted with LIMCO single stage paint. The pint of paint cost $15 and was enough to spray the hood twice(damm kids egged it after 6 days!)

 

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That's impressive!

 

What's the ratio of reducer to paint? If you bought a gallon of each, am I way off base assuming you mixed it roughly 50/50?

 

I forget what the limco product sheet specifies, most people end up custom mixing their own for what works best for them and their equipment.

 

generally I think I mix about a 4:4:1 or a 5:4:1.

 

Alot of that depends on the temperature, viscousity of the paint.....etc etc

 

Spraying high fill primer is very different than spraying single stage non metallic paint.

 

Likewise there are some low VOC paints out there that still spray very nicely......but are just different, and take some getting used to.

 

I mostly work with the limco single stage acrylic enamel, since I have just about used up all my hardener for that the next time I get paint I will get go with the urethane, it is supposed to smell much better and not be nearly as sticky(shoes etc sticking to the ground in the garage when you spray)

 

To be fair this is what the hood looked like before buffing(no wetsand on this one, just buff)

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  • 2 weeks later...
Ok, since we are talking cheap/affordable/budget paints jobs and the like, I have another thought and/or question. Has anybody attempted to use a Wagner or similar powersprayer?

Man you don't want to use one of the lil power sprayers... They SUCK!! Now I have this industrial type of painter that you plug in and run a tube into your paint container then it has a40 ft hose and gun that you spray from. It works really good.. Those lil power sprayers are good for nothing.. They spit globs, load up all the time, and vibrate your hand off, oh and talk about overspray,, shiiiiiit you'll be covered from head to boots.. don't ever buy one.

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using spray can then getting a shop to clear over it is like putting make up and a skirt on your grandma and thinkin its hot. only problem with that is spray can is lacquer based were as clear is urethane based.if you keep everything urethane based, you usually have less problems in the end. and when u start running out of aerosol itll spit and sputter and show up in the paint job. single stage is definatly the way to go if you want shiny on the cheep, but if you don't have the gun/compressor/place to spray it, its pointless.

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Ok, since we are talking cheap/affordable/budget paints jobs and the like, I have another thought and/or question. Has anybody attempted to use a Wagner or similar powersprayer?

 

don't use it for a car man.....

 

You can get a decent gun kit at Costco for $100, comes with several guns and nozzles, if I didn't already have a nice kit I would get one.

 

Of course, you need an air compressor to go with it, but if you don't have one I'm betting you can borrow one.

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