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long arms (y-link)...i need a pep talk


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so i'm going to start building my longarms (y-link style) for the 87 over the next few weeks...need to build the mounts, then figure out all of the angles and such.

 

i have one HUGE problem though...i'm extremely nervous about cutting the factory LCA brackets out. so much so, that I really don't want to do it...i'd rather find a way to not cut them out and just block off the control arm hole.

 

has this been done? those of you with long arms (y-link), what do you think?

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You probably won't be able to do it without clearance issues. I think. The bracketry for the MJ LCA pockets is huge. Maybe with a little trimming you could get things to fit, but for mock up only. Once you flex I bet you'll have mad contact issues. Unless you run some funky bent links or w/e.

 

I'd buck 'em off. No going back. Commit yourself 100%. Although, you could always rebuild them if need be...

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Mine are whacked right outta there and I didnt reinforce them back up at all. I asked on here before I cut them out and nobody said it needed to be done. However, when I cut them out, I only cut out the parts of the bracket that hung down, everything that was flat to the bottom of the frame stayed on and I welded the seams shut on them. So far, I've had no issues with them not being reinforced. If you look at it from a Statics point of veiw, now that there is no load applied from the stock LCA in that area, I can't see how they would do much, if anything anyway... :popcorn:

 

Oh, I was in the same boat you are about not wanting to cut them out. I always had that thought about taking the lift out of the truck and whatnot. Truth is that you'll enjoy the ride MUCH MUCH more and in the long run they are well worth it. Now that they are gone, I don't miss them for one second for SO many reasons. ;)

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best mod you will ever make to your mj. its such a better ride on and off road. use a torch or plasma cutter though. those control arm mounts are a pain in the a%*!!

 

plasma cutter of course :D

 

won't be for a few weeks...gotta figure out a few measurements and such first. and i need to build a crossmember that will allow me to drop the trans...

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check out www.ironrockoffroad.com they there long arms are what your talking about. plus they are about cheaper than you can build them.

No offense to you if you run them but they are probably the worst designed longarm kit on the market for the XJ/MJ.

 

If your going to run a y-link setup the upper control arms need to be able to move so during the suspension cycle you maintain a good pinion angle.

 

The mounts look questionable as well.

 

And lastly, the bend in the arms on those is the wrong way. You want high clearance, not low clearance. I've seen photo's of the kit mounted up and the clearance issues is something to be desired.

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I built my own set-up and even the cross member. I run 36's and have no clearence issues. I bought my tabs from a local shop, but they also sell them in ebay. Mild-2-Wild Customs. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

I did fixed lowers and adjustable uppers.

 

JB

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check out www.ironrockoffroad.com they there long arms are what your talking about. plus they are about cheaper than you can build them.

No offense to you if you run them but they are probably the worst designed longarm kit on the market for the XJ/MJ.

 

If your going to run a y-link setup the upper control arms need to be able to move so during the suspension cycle you maintain a good pinion angle.

 

The mounts look questionable as well.

 

And lastly, the bend in the arms on those is the wrong way. You want high clearance, not low clearance. I've seen photo's of the kit mounted up and the clearance issues is something to be desired.

 

 

I need to speak.

 

I hate off the shelf pre-built components. They're always junk. Anyways, quickly looking, this kit does not appear to be more or less junk than most of the others avaliable. Yes, those arms do appear to be bent the wrong way. My only guess is so you don't have to notch the coil bucket to allow for mad 'coil falling out' droop. Or perhaps they want to allow the LP (2000+ or whatever) some driveshaft protection, but I doubt it. The mounts would probably work fine, but I wouldn't say forever (but nothing is). They probably go in some retarded ground-clearance killing place anyways.

 

But what the heck do you mean by the upper control arm needing to be able to move? That kit doesn't have an upper control arm, which is how it is fundamentally different than most, if not ALL, the other crappy kits I've seen. What people call Y-links (TNT managed to get us to say that), is a radius arm setup. This kit is a WRISTED radius arm setup. With radius arm setups you technically DON'T have upper links, even if they do happen to be a seperate part than the lower links. The reason you don't technically have upper and lower links is because there is NO MOVEMENT BETWEEN THEM. So they are technically one link. A lot of the kits stick a poly bushing or such between the lower link and the theoretical upper link to allow for some slop. This is needed (but still stupid) if you're running regular radius arms, as since both arms are totally capable of controlling caster, to prevent the inherent bind from breaking something (spinning axle tubes, tearing off a bracket, wrecking a link, etc). With this kit, they do away with that BS by running a regular link (unable to control caster) on one side, and a radius arm on the other side (controls caster). They don't need a poly bushing or other BS as that would be VERY detrimental in this case. The term 'wristed' comes from how the regular link can move more like a human wrist.

 

Anybody understand me? Probably not. Ohwell.

 

Moving on...

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I understand you.. and agree. Basically look at a late 70's ford.. and it is a very similar setup.

 

Yup. Same idea. Little different execution. Those guys will wrist their radius arms too - they hack one mount apart or something :nuts: I've never looked into it because it does not interest or concern me.

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I gopt ready to do on the xj I did the ford radias arm conversion on... till I drove the thing.. and it rode like crap... so I started to part it out :nuts:

 

 

 

Back to the mounts... I say drill the spot welds and remove it in a way where you can put them back on

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