HOrnbrod Posted August 23, 2008 Share Posted August 23, 2008 I have 90% of the cab done and I have used 6 1/2 cans. Mostly one coat. Going to decide on second coat once I finish. So far I don't think I'll need one. Also contimplating a clear coat... Any thoughts?CW Yeah, clear coat will do that on a high humidity day w/o adding retarder. 'Course, that's hard to do with a rattle can. :eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfpackjeeper Posted August 23, 2008 Share Posted August 23, 2008 I have 90% of the cab done and I have used 6 1/2 cans. Mostly one coat. Going to decide on second coat once I finish. So far I don't think I'll need one. Also contimplating a clear coat... Any thoughts?CW Yeah, clear coat will do that on a high humidity day w/o adding retarder. 'Course, that's hard to do with a rattle can. :eek: yea, def need the retardant Dad did a test about 2 years ago: He took some of the 5 or 6 colors of house paint that we had left and put them in a sprayer and sprayed 5 sections of a 6gal metal bucket, did it in neat even sections. Before he sprayed them he prepped and primered the bucket. Mind you that he did this with eggshell and satin paints. Then he took the good clear that we had just done his car with and he sprayed the bucket. Let it dry then set it out in the backyard where it would get plenty of sun. That was 2 years ago, and it is still out there on top of the wood pile. The paint still looks brand new. He painted another bucket with just the paint. It eventually faded. I think it took a month or so to start, but it went very rapidly after that. done right the clear makes a world of difference, but humidity will kill you. If it does not crinkle, then it will fog up if done wrong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted August 23, 2008 Share Posted August 23, 2008 I decided to wait the longer than 24 and shoot it. I sprayed the DS fender and door first night so its closer to 36 hours.. LONG time over the 24 recommended right... CW Dude... I thought you were using auto paint!!! That sucks,,, Looks like crowsfeet from not using the same paint system. I had that happen to me one time in Ga after spraying a sealer over the original paint. But you said you used the same paint system. I thought you only used retarder in lacquer.. I've only sprayed urethane, and the only thing I've used with that is either a fast or slow hardener depending on temp and humidity.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted August 23, 2008 Share Posted August 23, 2008 Dude... I thought you were using auto paint!!! That sucks,,, Looks like crowsfeet from not using the same paint system. I had that happen to me one time in Ga after spraying a sealer over the original paint. But you said you used the same paint system. I thought you only used retarder in lacquer.. I've only sprayed urethane, and the only thing I've used with that is either a fast or slow hardener depending on temp and humidity.... I've always used polyurethane clearcoat, and the retarder (retardant ?) comes in an eye dropper; # of drops per humidity. But I always go a couple of drops more than recommended - 'Bama you know........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted August 23, 2008 Share Posted August 23, 2008 Dude... I thought you were using auto paint!!! That sucks,,, Looks like crowsfeet from not using the same paint system. I had that happen to me one time in Ga after spraying a sealer over the original paint. But you said you used the same paint system. I thought you only used retarder in lacquer.. I've only sprayed urethane, and the only thing I've used with that is either a fast or slow hardener depending on temp and humidity.... I've always used polyurethane clearcoat, and the retarder (retardant ?) comes in an eye dropper; # of drops per humidity. But I always go a couple of drops more than recommended - 'Bama you know........ same thing isnt it? I mean urethane and polyurethane.. Its humid here in NC I'm sure its not as bad as it is there in the Crimson Tide area... I've never really had to deal with retarders. Just Urethane>hardener, I only use ppg ommi, and their 2k stuff, sometimes napa crossstar stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW Posted August 23, 2008 Share Posted August 23, 2008 Dangit CW! I wish I would of seen this prior to you trying the clear it. Everyone asks me about my paint and what I thought about trying to clear it. I've NEVER had luck with the clear-in-a-can stuff. I always either get the cracking or the fogging as a result. Everyone who talks to me about the paint job on the MJ I always tell them to NOT even try to clear it unless your shooting it with real gun and are using a real clear with the retrarder. I didn't even attempt to do it on my MJ as I knew the results would be poor. Anyways, glad you are happy with the end results. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted August 24, 2008 Share Posted August 24, 2008 Yea, thats what I am hearing now... :roll: OH well.. I am gonna give it at least a week maybe two and let it get hard tthen fix the problems and finish the jambs. Any problems with yours fading or dulling with time and exposure? CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted August 24, 2008 Share Posted August 24, 2008 Dangit CW! I wish I would of seen this prior to you trying the clear it. Everyone asks me about my paint and what I thought about trying to clear it. I've NEVER had luck with the clear-in-a-can stuff. I always either get the cracking or the fogging as a result. Everyone who talks to me about the paint job on the MJ I always tell them to NOT even try to clear it unless your shooting it with real gun and are using a real clear with the retrarder. I didn't even attempt to do it on my MJ as I knew the results would be poor. Anyways, glad you are happy with the end results. :D Has anyone ever tried using rattle can clear over the OLD paint? The Colorado Red on my '88 is all burned out, with lots of white around the edges and flat in the middle of large panels like the hood and roof. That's because the clearcoat has burned off. But I notice that the red looks nice and shiny red when it rains. I've been thinking about just giving it a light sanding and shooting it with clear. What are my chances it might come out better than it now rather than worse? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW Posted August 25, 2008 Share Posted August 25, 2008 Any problems with yours fading or dulling with time and exposure? Can't say it's noticeable if it has. It's sat outside for the last 8+ months with no shade and still looks about as good as the day after I finished painting it. Still holding up great, even after several trail runs and rubbing the body against rocks etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted August 25, 2008 Share Posted August 25, 2008 EAGLE, I briefly thought about that as well. I wasnt a big fan of my dark blue color. Unsure, but it sure seemed like it would work!! Give it a try and let us know!! Your turn to be the Guinea pig!! CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted August 25, 2008 Share Posted August 25, 2008 Has anyone ever tried using rattle can clear over the OLD paint? The Colorado Red on my '88 is all burned out, with lots of white around the edges and flat in the middle of large panels like the hood and roof. That's because the clearcoat has burned off. But I notice that the red looks nice and shiny red when it rains. I've been thinking about just giving it a light sanding and shooting it with clear. What are my chances it might come out better than it now rather than worse? I've tried this with small parts that have faded out using rattle can clear coat after prepping. Usually it brightens things up quite a bit, but as there are few days here w. tolerable humidity, it sometimes fogs up. Sometimes it clears up over time, sometimes it does not. With small parts I put them in the oven for a couple of hours baking at 100*. (The wife loves it when I do this) :D Also to get rid of the fogging effect, I've used a heat gun sparingly at a distance back and forth across the affected areas which usually works. But I'm sure using clear coat over faded paint will not make it look worse. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted October 2, 2008 Share Posted October 2, 2008 If you buy cans, buy one of these too. Resurrecting and old theads... Are those re-usable, or 1 per can kind of deal? I'm thinking about painting my TJ hard top and thought that might help... Wade Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89eliminator Posted October 2, 2008 Share Posted October 2, 2008 those are reusable. just clean the tips when you change colors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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