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Cheap speakers


maddzz1
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I have to remove all my molding/trim to redo my headliner and put in my 97+ whether stripping. While I have it out I want to replace the 5 1/4 factory speakers with something decent. Anyone know of a good set of replacments for around $30.

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5 1/4" in the doors, 4x6 in the rear, and there is a place on the knee panel of the dash that holds tweeters if you want to go all out

 

Is there wiring already run for the knee panel speakers?

 

I just spliced into the door speakers wire.

 

I think the dash are just for 4 inch speakers, there is no point in aiming tweeters at your knees.

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5 1/4" in the doors, 4x6 in the rear, and there is a place on the knee panel of the dash that holds tweeters if you want to go all out

 

Is there wiring already run for the knee panel speakers?

 

I just spliced into the door speakers wire.

 

I think the dash are just for 4 inch speakers, there is no point in aiming tweeters at your knees.

 

Yeah, as LostIssues said, high frequencies are directional, so the fact they face downward you lose a lot of the effect. The PO had a pair in my truck and you can "hear" the super highs, but it's not the same as it would be if mounted up high. Best bet in that spot if you wanted to do it is a full range speaker to complement your other speakers. You CAN splice them as Mini has done, but as Hornbrod pointed out, check your ohm rating on your deck and your speakers. You should be ok as most speakers are rated for 4-8ohms and most decks run at 4 ohms, so if you paralleled two pairs of 8ohm speakers your ohm load should be ok.

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You CAN splice them as Mini has done, but as Hornbrod pointed out, check your ohm rating on your deck and your speakers. You should be ok as most speakers are rated for 4-8ohms and most decks run at 4 ohms, so if you paralleled two pairs of 8ohm speakers your ohm load should be ok.

 

True Wahoo. When you splice two speakers in parallel, like adding a L and R pair of tweeters to an existing pair of front speakers, you lower the resistance (impedence) the head "sees" at the output. The OEM speakers are rated at 4 ohms/ea, and the L & R channels are looking for a 4 ohm impedence, so the output is balanced. If you spliced another 4 ohm speaker to a channel, the impedence would be 2 ohms. A 2 ohms impedence would cause excess heat and eventual damage to the head final output. The formula for parallel resistance is:

 

1 / R = 1 / R1 + 1 / R2 so by plugging in two 4-ohm resistors connected in parallel: 1 / R = 1 / 4 + 1 / 4 so R=2 ohms.

 

But if you wired in an 8 ohm tweeter in parallel with an existing 8 ohm speaker, the impedence would be: 1 / R = 1 / 8 + 1 / 8 so R= 4 ohms.

 

Bottom line: You never want the impedence on any channel lower than 4 ohms. The "fix" when adding speakers to a channel is to only parallel speakers rated at least double the impedence of the head channel output.

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