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I was eyeballing my truck this afternoon, and noticed the drivers side tire sticks out of the wheelwell a good 1/2"-3/4" more than the passengers side; a result of the lift I'm sure. Don't knoiw why I have not noticed this before. I'm going to disconnect my stock track bar at the axle tomorrow, jump up and down a few times to center the axle, and see if I have room to drill another hole in the axle bracket. Never have done this before. My question is will I have any trouble lining up the holes to reconnect the track bar if there's not enough room for a new hole?

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As far as getting the trackbar to where it needs to be I've always just turned the steering wheel a bit and it will shift the "body". Works very well; especially if you have a 2nd person.

 

I don't like to re-drill a hole for the trackbar. I've seen way to many mounts crack as the result of doing so. Typically what happens is they crack between the 2 holes, than elongating the holes and causing more issues than it was worth. Only fix than is to weld a new mount on.

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As far as getting the trackbar to where it needs to be I've always just turned the steering wheel a bit and it will shift the "body". Works very well; especially if you have a 2nd person.

 

I don't like to re-drill a hole for the trackbar. I've seen way to many mounts crack as the result of doing so. Typically what happens is they crack between the 2 holes, than elongating the holes and causing more issues than it was worth. Only fix than is to weld a new mount on.

 

Thanks for the reply Motion. What about a track bar relocation bracket then? My lift is just a tad over 3". Would the bracket bring me closer to center?

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We don't like TB drop brackets on the axle end. Here is why;

 

1) They typically are junk and bend. The majority if them use small hardware. Your also putting more stress on the factory mount.

 

2) It drops your trackbar. What happens the majority of the time is this messes up your trackbar vs. draglink angle. You want the draglink and the trackbar to be parallel to each other. Adding a drop bracket makes them so they are not; thus causing bumpsteer.

 

3) If you wheel your rig they tend to get cought on rocks and are easily ripped off being that they hang down. The factory location isn't the best, but it's better than a bracket hanging down another 3+ inches.

 

If you do anything with the mount you'd want to raise it with the way that the factory steering setup is designed.

 

Honestly I'd recommend to just buy a new adjustable one. They are not that awful expensive for one's in your lift height range. I think it will save you a headache down the road and it will keep your steering feeling like it currently does.

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Lot's of good input from Motion Offroad - thanks. I will go with an adj. bar, and have settled on either Motion's or the Teraflex bar. Both will work fine for my modest lift. I like the Teraflex since it has an adjustable sleeve and one end does not have to be removed. Since my rig never sees anything but the pavement, I think wither one will be fine. Opinions?

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Don,

 

Replied to your PM. :cheers:

 

 

Not trying to be a "salesman", but the major thing I do not like about the TF bar is that the TRE is not replaceable on it. To replace the TRE you have to replace half of the entire tracbar. The TRE is built into the bar (see pic).

 

TBAF_ball%20joint.jpg

 

Also a TB that is not 1 solid peice is more prone to breaking. I know your not offroading your MJ so it's not a major concern.

 

Just something to consider. ;)

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I have had the Tera-flex unit and will recomend against it for the very reason Motion pointed out. I had it fail and it cost me big dollars for the replacement piece only to have it fail again. I like TF products... just not this product.

 

You didn't mention it but I'll throw it out there... also stay away from RUSTY'S and Skyjacker's bars too.

 

I recomend JKS products track-bar. I use it and have for years NO PROBLEMS!! Its TOP quality, from a well respected, established company that will stand behind there products.

 

CW

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I have had the Tera-flex unit and will recomend against it for the very reason Motion pointed out. I had it fail and it cost me big dollars for the replacement piece only to have it fail again. I like TF products... just not this product.

 

You didn't mention it but I'll throw it out there... also stay away from RUSTY'S and Skyjacker's bars too.

 

I recomend JKS products track-bar. I use it and have for years NO PROBLEMS!! Its TOP quality, from a well respected, established company that will stand behind there products. CW

 

Yeah CW, I like TeraFlex stuff too. Have used their disk brake kits, shackles, and other products with zero problems. Please keep in mind that my MJ never sees any offroad; the most stressful things she sees is makin' speed runs on the back roads to the next county for beer runs or smokig' some ricer at a light. All I'm looking to do is move my front axle back to center about 1/2" to the right. JKS makes good stuff, that's for sure. But I don't really think I need it.

 

My reasoning is that the tie rod and the drag link use the adjustment sleeve, so why not the track bar? And the TF unit is thicker than the stock stuff too. The only OEM parts I have left on my steering/suspension/drivetrain is the drag link, track bar, and the regeared D35. I suspect the D35 axles will go pretty soon :D , at that time I'll go to a D44 and swap tha disks over using new backing plates, or build a Super D35. I'm sure both the Motion and TF adjustable track bars will both be more than enough for my needs, but I can get the TF a whole lot cheaper. Hopefully Adam can chime in and contradict this? :cheers:

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I really don't like the design of the TF unit. I'd be hesitant to run a trackbar that has that sleave on it. Personally I'd rather run a 1 peice unit.

 

I'd also chose a heim joint end any day over a TRE. I'm not crazy about the way the TF unit you can't even replace the TRE.

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In my opinion Heim joints have no place on the street. Been there done that. They simply don't last and get very noisy once worn a bit. Plus the hole safety minded single shear argument.

Truth be told, I don't think they are even D.O.T. so if one fails and it is determined to have been a mitigating factor in the accident and there is a law suit.. kiss your arse good-bye.

 

Off road ONLY with minimal mileage, Heims are in there element. Durable and noise isn't a factor. MAJOR angle ability with out binding. It has many pluses.

 

TRE's are proven time and time again.

 

Of coarse a one piece TB is better and likely stronger. But its just not practical. Very few have the the ability or expertise to fab up mounts or a custom length TB.

 

BUT, since you have opened the door to options.. The WJ style is THE WAY to go. Just like my Kevin's TB.. (Built by JKS)

 

CW

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When i installed my trailmaster 4" kit in 2001 i drilled a new hole 3/4 inch from the factory tb (per lift kit instructions) hole and never had a problem with breaking or elongating the hole and in 2002 i installed the ProComp adj. track bar and have been runing it ever since with out any issues up until a few months ago when i fabed up a new tb mount and modified the original ProComp track bar to fit .

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In my opinion Heim joints have no place on the street. Been there done that. They simply don't last and get very noisy once worn a bit. Plus the hole safety minded single shear argument.

Truth be told, I don't think they are even D.O.T. so if one fails and it is determined to have been a mitigating factor in the accident and there is a law suit.. kiss your arse good-bye.

To get a DOT certificate takes a lot of money (yes a lot!). Many companies won't even bother with the DOT as it's so expensive and not worth their trouble. (same with TUV in Europe). It's easy to put "offroad only" on all there product material so they don't have any liability. Insurance is crazy anymore and anyone will sue anybody to make a buck. So by saying "offroad only" companies have no issues with any of this. I delt with this when I worked for Lingenfelter and we were trying to get our products 50 state legal; DOT and dealing with the stupid smog crap they have will leave a company broke.

 

That does not mean however that all heim joints are not DOT safe. I know that some QA1 joints are DOT approved for instance.

 

A quality heim will not wear out and become noisy. The static load ratings of a heim are crazy, your not going to find that out of a TRE. Honestly I'd feel safer on the street with a heim than a TRE anyday.

 

TRE's are proven time and time again.

 

If you call this "proven" than no thanks...

 

photo1tx9.jpg

 

TRE's only can bend so far, than they are put in a leverage situation and will break. You don't have this issue with heim joints. I've seen more issues with TRE's used on the end of trackbars than I've ever seen with heim joints. Actually I don't think I've ever seen a heim break like the above picture when used on a trackbar.

 

Of coarse a one piece TB is better and likely stronger. But its just not practical. Very few have the the ability or expertise to fab up mounts or a custom length TB.

 

How is a 1 piece unit that goes to either a heim or TRE not practical? The majority of the aftermarket trackbars out on the market today are build this way. TF is one of the only one's that I know that peices 2 parts together and uses the adjuster sleave.

 

 

 

 

To each their own, but I don't agree. 8)

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I really don't like the design of the TF unit. I'd be hesitant to run a trackbar that has that sleave on it. Personally I'd rather run a 1 peice unit.

We ALL run drag links with adjusting sleeves. What's the difference?

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I really don't like the design of the TF unit. I'd be hesitant to run a trackbar that has that sleave on it. Personally I'd rather run a 1 peice unit.

We ALL run drag links with adjusting sleeves. What's the difference?

Last I checked a draglink was part of the steering and not put in major leverage situations like a trackbar is.

 

The major leverage on the steering setup is the tie rod, not the draglink.

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TRE's only can bend so far, than they are put in a leverage situation and will break. You don't have this issue with heim joints. I've seen more issues with TRE's used on the end of trackbars than I've ever seen with heim joints. Actually I don't think I've ever seen a heim break like the above picture when used on a trackbar.

Of course you have this issue with heim joints. Most heim joints have the same range of movement as a TRE, or less. Whatever their range is, once they reach the limit the "collar" is solidly bound up against the bolt and something has to break -- just like a TRE that exceeds the limits of its range.

 

Now, if you're talking about connecting the upper end heim to a totally different frame bracket so the direction of movement is different than that of a TRE, that's a different story. But if that's what you have in mind, the additional range of rotation is created by changing the axis of the bolt, not by any inherent superiority of the heim over a TRE.

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for what its worth my buddy ran a teraflex tracbar on his xj and it only lasted maybe a year before the non replaceable tre was shot. i spent the extra cash and went with a jks, have had no problems thus far and would buy another one but i don't think i will ever have to.

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Eagle,

Time has proven my/our argument time and time again. I attempted to convey that in my post. Wonder how it is to go thru life with blinders on. If heims worked so well, and where legal or superior to TRE's you would see them in factory applications.

 

Lead,

Yours is an apples to oranges argument.

 

Fact remains they are not recognised as road legal (DOT approved) with in the world as it is today. There for there use as well as the repercussions of that use, is entirely the users responsibility.

 

I personally have had three different manufactures Heims FAIL to the point of rattles, unwanted movement and NOISE. All failed prematurely to what the factory TRE or conventional bushing did before and after. Did they still function with the noise. Yes, but I was not willing to put up with the noise and vibration the caused.

 

Like you said we disagree on this one. As long as any one reading this dig a bit and reads up and makes an informed, not an opinionated decision. I have accomplished my intention. Far to many "knowledgeable" authors spout off about things they have never even worked with or even seen first hand. But read about from some other schmuck and post it up as gospel for other unknowing readers to take as fact.

 

CW

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I have 2 questions:

 

Arent there trac bars that have a bushing at the frame end similar to the axle end? What is everyones opinions on them(Assuming you replace the bracket too)?

 

Would the heim work better if you got a new bracket so that the bolt went thru the heim front to back instead of bottom to top?

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This is all good stuff and very informative. To me the very best and strongest track bar is a solid one piece unit like the OEM bar w. no heim or TRE joint, cut to length to match your lift. But I only need a TB about 3/8" to 1/2" longer than the stoac bar, so my options are limited. Most TBs are too long for my application, 3" and above, and I can not drill a new mounting hole at the axle bracket because the holes would be too close. So my choices are the Motion heim joint TB, the Tera TRE/adj sleeve TB, or a solid custom. Since I can not find a solid custom TB 1/2" longer than my stock, and I'm not at all sure the extended use of a heim joint on the street, I'm leaning more toward the Tera bar, mainly because I stay on the street and think it will be fine for my application.

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Arent there trac bars that have a bushing at the frame end similar to the axle end? What is everyones opinions on them(Assuming you replace the bracket too)?

 

I would think bushings on each end of the track bar would allow too much side to side movement. Bushings are generally used on the axle end to help eliminate noise. I know of a few who are going to solid mounts on each end of the track bar to eliminate all play.

 

Would the heim work better if you got a new bracket so that the bolt went thru the heim front to back instead of bottom to top?

 

Yes, this is by far a superior design with a couple of benefits. You get additional range of motion at this joint without binding. You also end up with a double shear mount which captures the joint on both sides and provides a much more solid mount. The track bar receives incredible stress during turning and suspension travel which I feel the stock TRE design barely handles adequately.

 

Willy

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Don,

 

What is the overall length you need? This may be another option that includes a heavy duty mount and bushing ends on both ends. I'd have to measure it but it may work...

 

motionhdtrackbar.jpg

 

motionhdtrackbar_1.jpg

 

As close as I can tell when measuring w. a level and outside tire distance to the same point on the spring perch on both sides, my axle has shifted to the left 3/8" to 1/2".

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As close as I can tell when measuring w. a level and outside tire distance to the same point on the spring perch on both sides, my axle has shifted to the left 3/8" to 1/2".

Measure from mounting bolt on the axle end to the mounting hole on the TRE end for me (giving me an overall length).

 

If you like the above design I can have one custom made to work with what you need.

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Measure from mounting bolt on the axle end to the mounting hole on the TRE end for me (giving me an overall length).

 

If you like the above design I can have one custom made to work with what you need.

 

The measurement from the cntr of the axle mounting bolt to the cntr of the zerk on the frame end is 31-3/16".

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