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Posted

Has anyone seen someone who has converted the rear suspension to a coil suspension. I am wondering if this is an idea that would work better than stock suspension.

Posted

The biggest problem is you need to 4 link the rear to run coils. Requires the removal of the gas tank if you do the typical setup.

 

Rumor has it though that Motion is working on a bolt-on rear coil setup for the MJ's. :chillin:

Posted

Don't necessarily need a 4 link setup. Theoretically, a 3 link will work just as well, and older (60s. early 70s) Chevy pickups I believe ran a 2 link with coils in the rear.

 

In my opinion, it makes more sense to swap to leafs in front instead of coils in the rear. I'm thinking a leaf conversion on the front suspension could solve all DW problems the stock coil setup has.

 

Then again, a properly done coil rear suspension could articulate a lot more than leafs.

Posted

Then again, a properly done coil rear suspension could articulate a lot more than leafs.

 

And provide less flex steer, proper AS (more traction), a better roll centre (more stability) and NO axle wrap.

 

Build it right and it will work better... Build it wrong and it'll be a pile.

Posted

In my opinion, it makes more sense to swap to leafs in front instead of coils in the rear. I'm thinking a leaf conversion on the front suspension could solve all DW problems the stock coil setup has.

 

I'll stick to coils and longarms, Never ever had death wobble.

Posted

In my opinion, it makes more sense to swap to leafs in front instead of coils in the rear. I'm thinking a leaf conversion on the front suspension could solve all DW problems the stock coil setup has.

 

I'll stick to coils and longarms, Never ever had death wobble.

 

The moment you go to long arms, you don't have a stock setup any more.

Posted

Has anybody replaced their rear shocks with coilovers? and kept the leafs? I read it can help if the leafs are old and warn out.

Posted

It could help, as could air adjustable shocks, but do you really trust the shock mounts to be weight carrying?

 

I just replaced my old broken 132,000 mile 87 springs with old unbroken 104,000 mile 88 springs and gained almost 3" of lift. Or rather, eliminated 3" of sag.

Posted
It could help, as could air adjustable shocks, but do you really trust the shock mounts to be weight carrying?

 

I just replaced my old broken 132,000 mile 87 springs with old unbroken 104,000 mile 88 springs and gained almost 3" of lift. Or rather, eliminated 3" of sag.

 

3" just by putting better stock springs in. I guess the old ones were pretty shot. When I do my lift I will be getting the hell creek 4.5" MJ packs.

Posted

In my opinion, it makes more sense to swap to leafs in front instead of coils in the rear. I'm thinking a leaf conversion on the front suspension could solve all DW problems the stock coil setup has.

 

I'll stick to coils and longarms, Never ever had death wobble.

 

The moment you go to long arms, you don't have a stock setup any more.

 

For the actual amount of work a front leaf conversion is, a guy could build some radius arms. I'm not big on radius arms, but they're better than front leafs. And a front leaf setup can deathwobble too. If you don't believe me, go talk to some YJ/SJ/CJ owners, a lot of them will complain of 'less than ideal' driving characteristics.

 

And the front (stock) parallel 4-link can easily be stopped from deathwobbling. You just have to make sure everything is in proper working order - it's not like they wobbled from the factory.

Posted

In my opinion, it makes more sense to swap to leafs in front instead of coils in the rear. I'm thinking a leaf conversion on the front suspension could solve all DW problems the stock coil setup has.

 

I'll stick to coils and longarms, Never ever had death wobble.

 

The moment you go to long arms, you don't have a stock setup any more.

 

For the actual amount of work a front leaf conversion is, a guy could build some radius arms. I'm not big on radius arms, but they're better than front leafs. And a front leaf setup can deathwobble too. If you don't believe me, go talk to some YJ/SJ/CJ owners, a lot of them will complain of 'less than ideal' driving characteristics.

 

And the front (stock) parallel 4-link can easily be stopped from deathwobbling. You just have to make sure everything is in proper working order - it's not like they wobbled from the factory.

 

I own a CJ trust me front leaves will DW. Hell anything will DW if its not put together properly or is worn out. I however can drive my CJ 75mph down the interstate and have no problem whatsoever, how you might ask? Keep it in good repair and don't half @$$ the build. When it comes down to it for ride flex I would go with coils anyday of the week. For simplicity of building I would choose leafs. Its all a matter of personal prefrence its hard to say one is better than the other cause it isn't. They both have their own unique advantages.

Posted

TJ on 42's, leaf-sprung front, outboarded hangers. It still gets death wobble. Much easier to fit the leafs than the 4 link Clayton's that was in the original plan.

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

Those front shackles will be fodder. And with leafs the problem is often the steering. I know, you can go high steer and solve some of those problems. But you can often still have issues with the pitman arm/DRE contacting the TR, or a leaf spring...

 

If you can fit leafs, you can fit a 3-link with acceptable geometry. At least, much better than the leaf springs. Oh, and a leaf sprung front will always have some bumpsteer at high speeds (unless you run full hydro or a panhard bar). Sometimes it's nice to be able to go fast through the bumps.

 

And with those outboarded springs, can the steering travel to full lock? I'd say I doubt it, but 60's don't turn very sharp normally.

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