About how much should it cost...

[Pete M]

...to have someone move the perches on this 9"? My new-to-me axle is set up for a YJ and I need them moved over. I've become very frustrated with removing the first one and am prepared to pay to have both the removal and re-attachment done by someone else. :mad:

 

Or if anyone has any tips for perch removal?

[DirtyComanche]

Don't own a good grinder? I have a nice dewalt 5", and if I put a high quality wheel in it I can cut through that stuff like butter. Maybe 15 minutes to remove them and clean everything up so you wouldn't know.

 

 

Otherwise I have no idea what it'd cost. With a torch it could be done in a couple minutes, probably under the minimum charge for a machine/welding shop.

[Pete M]

I should probably mention that they are aftermarket perches and taller and longer than most. That's the big reason I've been struggling. The grinder just doesn't quite get to all of it. Neither does the circular saw. :headpop:

 

Likely I'll just keep fighting with it until I hurt myself somehow. :roll:

[MiNi Beast]

are you using the bigger thiner cut off wheel? The thinner the better.

 

Wheres the pic of this trouble some axle perch?> :redX:

[A-man930]

Mine didn't take much to get off, just a couple of wheels and some patience. I've had good luck with DeWalt wheels

[Pete M]

My thin wheels are actually a smaller diameter than the grinding wheels. :roll: Looks like tomorrow I'll be running to Lowes and see what they have.

[tjbliley]

Try a good quality sawzall blade as well.

[TNT]

...to have someone move the perches on this 9"? My new-to-me axle is set up for a YJ and I need them moved over. I've become very frustrated with removing the first one and am prepared to pay to have both the removal and re-attachment done by someone else. :mad:

 

Or if anyone has any tips for perch removal?

 

I just torch them off, put the new ones on, tack them down, pull the axle and burn them home.

 

I do like to add a truss on the top and backside of a 9" axle. I will be starting mine very soon.

 

I also will cut the bottom for ground clearance and weld some 1/4" plate in to plate the hole that was cut for clearance.I I'll also add a 2.5" wide x 1/4" steel strap that runs from the rear truss under the housing just past the area that was clearanced to help protect the housing from wear caused by sliding across rocks. A fill and drain plug is a great addition also.

 

Kinda like this one.

 

This is a nice linked one.

[Tracker]

My thin wheels are actually a smaller diameter than the grinding wheels. :roll: Looks like tomorrow I'll be running to Lowes and see what they have.

I just paid $6.99 for a 10 pack of 4.5" extra-thin cutting wheels from HF Tools. They seem to be no better or worse than the more pricey ones at Lowes and Home Depot.

[Pete M]

Good point. I'll swing by HF first.

 

I've been hesitant to use the sawzall. Something in the back of my head tells me that weld material is generally harder than the base metal. I have no idea if that's true or where that came from. Yes? No?

 

I do have plans for a brace (not cause I need it, just cause I already have a 2x6 tube of steel sitting around doing nothing). 8) But that isn't necessary for the Badlands so it's on the long term to-do list.

[DirtyComanche]

Good point. I'll swing by HF first.

 

I've been hesitant to use the sawzall. Something in the back of my head tells me that weld material is generally harder than the base metal. I have no idea if that's true or where that came from. Yes? No?

 

Not with mild steel. Which is the case here. But I don't like sawzalls for that type of thing personally. Although, I have used them for it before.

 

And I shy away from cheap disks and such. We have a place here called 'princess auto' which is pretty much the same as HF, and the flap disks from there are lethal. They explode during use.