Search the Community

Parts required from donor XJ: Overhead console (OHC) Sunvisors & clips (optional) OHC wiring harness (runs along passenger A-pillar) OHC mounting bracket & screw (only front most bracket required) Temperature sensor (located behind front bumper, in front of "frame") ________ After scoring a couple of pre97 XJ overhead consoles (OHC) from the parts yard, I decided that one could be modified to work in the cab of an MJ. Figuring this project had been done before, I spent hours reading through threads on here and NAXJA. Some of the info and even FSM wiring diagrams didnt match what I had, and theres even different versions of the OHCs to make it even more confusing. So I started this thread to compile my notes and document my process. This is a long one so grab a beer and take a seat. To start, I believe the pre97 XJ OHC was offered from 90-96. There are updated 97-01 OHCs that require OBD II to utilize all the extra computer features such as "average gas mileage" and "miles to empty". My documentation will deal with the older pre97 models. OHC IDENTIFICATION There are (at least) 2 different styles, and I do not know what year the break between them is. I had a 92 XJ Laredo years ago that had a "newer" style OHC for what its worth. The differences are the wiring for the lights. The "older" style OHC has 4 black wires that run from the front dome lights to the rear dome lights. The "newer" style OHC has 3 colored wires between the dome lights: black, yellow, and gray. The older style OHC is wired so that the rear dome lights would come on when the doors to the XJ were open, NOT the front lights. The newer style OHC has both front and rear dome lights come on with the doors open. Why does this matter? Because the OHC is too long to fit inside the cab of the MJ without being cut down, which means you have to get rid of the rear dome lights. If you have the older style OHC you will have to either rewire or swap the dome light fixtures if you want them to come on with the doors open. The newer style OHC you can simply cut the wiring to the rear domes and be done with it. Other minor differences between the 2 styles are that the older style has black covers over the bulb wiring, and removal of the covers shows a circuit board instead of the colored wires of the newer style OHC. Pics for reference, newer style on the left, older style on the right. For simplicity purposes I chose to use the newer style OHC for my install. WIRING HARNESS Let's switch gears for a moment and talk about the wiring harness for the OHC. In order to successfully do this swap you'll want to have the wiring harness that runs along the passenger side A-pillar. There are quick disconnects at the kick panel and the wiring extends all the way to the roof and to the sunvisors. Also be sure to snag the temperature sensor behind the bumper. Theres a couple different styles of sensors but mine looks like this: If you're planning on adding an OHC then swapping over to sunvisors with lighted vanity mirrors is an easy upgrade. From what I've seen the pigtails for the sunvisors are a single pink wire with a single thin, black connector, and never changed throughout all years of XJs. I have a nice set from a 98 XJ I am using, complete with airbag warnings. Whatever. Since I wired up 97 XJ power doors on my MJ, I wasnt going to make any attempt to wire up the keyless entry sensor/module, not to mention I didnt really want to open that can of worms. So I cut off the pigtails for the harness, which had black, green, tan, wires and a pink one on the OHC/keyless sensor end. The pink wire is spliced into the larger pink wire that powers the vanity mirrors so it has constant 12V power. I decided to crimp on an insulated quick disconnect to it in case I need easy access to power from the roof in the future. I'm thinking maybe wiring switches in the OHC eventually... WIRING DIAGRAM Here's where it gets confusing. There were (at least) 2 styles of wiring harnesses with completely different colored wires. I have seen several early 90s FSMs state the wiring for the harness is as follows: Pink A - dome lamps (12v?) Pink B - reading lamps (what's the difference?) Black/blue - temperature sensor Violet/green - temperature sensor Orange/black - illumination (connects to the dimmer) Blue/red - head lamps on (dims the display when the headlamps are on) Black/blue - compass ground White/pink - 12V Some individuals have stated they had a yellow wire that went to the doorjamb switch ground to activate the dome lights. My wiring harness was different. here's how I wired mine: CONNECTOR 1 Pink - constant 12V Black - ground Black/white - ground to doorjamb switch. The existing wire to the doorjamb switch was the same color, I simply spliced into it CONNECTOR 2 Orange/green - temp sensor Pink/blue - temp sensor Black/orange - ground White/black - ignition on 12V Orange/black - illumination. I left this unplugged. Blue - left unplugged. May be for headlights on If you did it right you should be able to plug in your OHC and sunvisors and have power.

So when I bought this 86' MJ with a 4.0l 5 spd had on Tachometer, I switch instrument cluster but TACH still not working, looking at the engine, I see the distributor is not the original, so, apparently this was changed thus it was not wire to the cluster (this is my conclusion) my question is, is there a wire diagram an one can share and/or, any one know how to connect it?

Does anybody know where I can get a wiring harness from

Sent mail to Painless Wiring and they stated simply that they have nothing for this vehicle and cannot help. Seemed curt and left me with the impression that they'd be uninterested in pursuing any custom work. I'd gotten the impression that they were a better comany than that but there it is. My firewall fuse boxes are intact. But insulation on wiring under the bonnet is dry and cracking on a lot of wires and I don't trust it. I'd as soon have an entire new harness firewall forward AND the interior harness as well firewall in. I'm NOT opposed to building them myself but sourcing the connectors would likely be a tremendous task as there are many variations. The other thing would be finding the plug housings themselves. I'd much rather pay someone else for the harnesses professionally prepared but if I can source the components, I CAN do it myself. Any vendors for these?

Looking to buy a wiring harness. As complete as I can get it. I have a 1989 Comanche pioneer, 4.0 renix, manual trans. Please let me know what you have. Thanks. Located in central nj. I will pay shipping if I have to.

Hey guys sorry if this is already a topic, I can't find it if it is. But I'm doing the 97+ front clip swap on my 89 Comanche and not sure what to do about the header panel wiring harness. Should I use the older one so it plugs in to the plug on the driver side or do I use the newer style harness? If I have to use the newer style harness how would I change the plug to fit the one on my jeep?

I have a 1989 MJ long bed 4.0 2wd with a 5 speed soon to be 4wd. I was at the junk yard checking out 2 MJ trucks for parts (tail lights where gone of course) and one of them is a 91 or 92 because it has the injection module by the air cleaner and has the open cooling radiator system. It looks just like my 1995 XJ under the hood. I'm thinking of doing a fuel injection swap with wiring harness and all sensors throttle body etc. Couple of questions. Will I get more HP out of my 89 4.0? Are the injectors in the junk yard truck the 4 port ones that are talked about running smooth and get better mileage? Do I need to get the entire wiring harness out of the truck or just from the firewall block forward? I didn't see a fuel pump resistor in the junk yard truck does that mean I need to switch fuel pumps also? I seem to remember there might not be a return line from the fuel rail. I forgot to look at the junk yard truck. If there is only one line going to the fuel rail then I assume it means that I need the fuel pump for sure. And if that's the case should I just go ahead and get the tank. Seems like I read that the fuel pump mounts might be different. The junk yard truck is 4.0 2wd 4 speed manual. Comments?

Hello all! I posted a ways back about a new comanche I was lucky enough to find. Right now there is one extremely daunting task that I am debating turning over to a mechanic, but I wanted to stop by here first to see what you guys thought, because I trust this forum way more than most of the mechanics that would be giving me quotes. For instance, I spoke with one on the phone today that stopped me and said "I already know what the problem is. You don't have to say anything more. You need an entirely new wiring harness and need to re-wire everything. Going to run you about $2,400 and anyone that says they'll do it for cheap is going to ruin your car". So, obviously I'm doing everything I can to not pay someone $2,400 because that sounds insanely ridiculous, but my issue is that if I dive into this wiring situation alone, I'm afraid my Comanche may not be able to be revived. There are far too many wires in this car and not that much information on the process from beginning to end. So! Below are lots of pictures of my current wiring set up as well as a detailed description of the problems I'm experiencing. I will be as thorough as possible in hopes someone can guide me in the right direction. I'm not opposed to fixing it, as long as there is something i can reference. But if you guys think this kind of situation is better in the hands of a professional, I'm willing to turn this one job over to a mechanic, but would prefer to know what it is that needs to be fixed so I don't have people telling me it's going to be $2,400... List of problems: -Crossed wires cause the car to not start or turn off every once in a while. After messing with the wires, it will restart. This seems to be occurring around the main positive/negative battery wires. -No turn signals. They worked once, haven't worked since. -A/C turns on half the time, half the time it doesn't -Horn works 25% of the time, 75% it does not work -Windshield wipers are on and off, but seem to be working more consistently now -Some kind of wire crossing caused my last battery to drain extremely quickly -oil gauge does not work Annnd I think that's mostly it. A lot of on and off stuff. Just want to get everything consistently working. Any thoughts on best solutions are welcome, cheapest options exceptionally welcome! https://imageshack.com/i/ip089f27j https://imageshack.com/i/f0e06cb5j https://imageshack.com/i/hla6bc5dj https://imageshack.com/i/p5e193b2j https://imageshack.com/i/ez529218j https://imageshack.com/i/p446cd16j https://imageshack.com/i/km221dbdj https://imageshack.com/i/f0ceea38j

I've currently have a standard (ax-15) in my truck and when i pulled the engine to do a stroker i decided to "clean up" the engine bay harness, well now that i have it all torn apart i havent the slightest idea how to goes back together. Soooo I will be going to the junkyard to pull another harness, approx $25. I want to know if i can use a harness from an auto. I know the throttle body will have two plugs, and there will be extra plugs for the TCU and what goes to the Transmission itself but other than that i can't see what else would prevent me from doing this. The reason why i want to use the harness from an auto instead of another stick is that i plan on swapping to an auto in the near future, so this would be perfect planning ahead, just snag the harness and TCU and when i am ready i will have everything i need, wiring wise, to swap in an AW4. Savvy? :D Ftpiercecracker1