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Long time listener, first time caller! Ive got a lot to explain, so ill get right to the point: 87 Comanche HO Swap Ran after swap fine for a month Problem: A short in the dash powerside wiring (the small orange/black wire) caused a no start problem The dash light wiring has been repaired Symptoms: No spark from coil No injector pulse Fuel pump primes but not running during cranking Intermittent Voltage gauge operation Tachometer not working Diagnostics: CPS is newish and tests at 235 ohms and puts out .5v ac current during cranking 5v at tps and map TPS tests puts out 0.8v MAP tests good O2 tests at roughly 400 ohms Both temp sensors test good Replaced coil, ICM, coil lead 12v and good ground at ICM 3 prong plug Ground at ICM 2 prong plug (not sure if this is supposed to be, the wire is yellow) 12v to coil from ICM Opened up ECU, looks good and all testable components tested good The four relays behind the battery all test good, same with the relay on the drivers side engine bay Cleaned C101 connector (was filled with goopy sticky black stuff) Cleaned plug going to fuse box 9 filled with same stuff) Checked the CPS resistance at ECU pins D1 and C1, came back same as at CPS Checked all fuses and fusable links Cleaned ground strap and connections at the starter relay I thought I had no power at ECU but I think I am testing the wrong connectors (D10 and C11) my wiring diagram seems to be wrong, what pins should i check for power at? I am honestly stumped. Any help would be greatly appreciated, Ive read through nearly every forum I can find

I'm in the process of getting rid of the Rustys junk under my 1992 mj short bed 4wd and need some advice for a better ride. Right now the truck is lifted 5ish inches in the rear and 4 to 4.5 in the front with a cheap rustys short arm and spring over kit. I have installed WJ knuckles and brakes. Eaton elocker and 4.11 gears. Went to full crossover highsteer setup with chevy Tie rod ends and WJ brakes. I custom made a new track bar and currently my drag link and track bar are almost parallel and level. I'm in the process of replacing rustys springs with ome springs and a cavfab 3 link in the front. I have bilstien 5100 shocks all around. Here is where it get interesting I have a ford 8.8 disk break rear end I installed and after getting it put in I have realized that I have sagging lead pack on 1 side. The overload leaf has already been removed from the previous owner and it currently is pretty stiff ride in the back. I have contemplated going with oem replacements for $350 rated at 1230lbs. Alcan springs quoted me $630 plus shipping they said they could make a set rated at 1000lbs. Or I'm thinking about ripping it all out and doing a 3 link or 4 link rear with 2 inch lift TJ coils which should fit perfect. It's looking like with the gas tank I don't have room to make a 4 link or crossmember to place the 3rd link on so I'm not sure that having the 3rd link on 1 side might be to much stress for the unibody. I was thinking of making plates that bolts to the frame for the lower control arm mounts and I think that will be fine but the upper control arm mount has me stumped. I have thought about going with an xj or tj or yj fuel tank in the spare tire area but don't know if they would fit. Then I could make a crossmember for the upper and lower links. Has anyone ever seen this done? Do you think it's worth the investment of probably $1000 in materials? Would the ride be any better with say 2.5 lift ome soft springs from rear of a tj then the leafs that are under it now. I will post pictures as soon as I figure out how.

I've used these guys in the past, have always been fair and honest with me. www.benzspring.com

Ok guys, while I have a tiny lift (~2") budget lift on my DD MJ currently, the 31" tires are rubbing too much for my liking...I have WJ LCAs and shocks that accommodate the small lift in the front. I'm looking to get rid of the stock coils and 1.75" crappy spacer in there currently and replace them with some old man emu PN OME934 (for a WJ I believe)... >>>Do I need to mess around with sway bar links, driveshaft, pitman arm, etc. when I slap the new springs (OME934) on? I hear they give about 2.5'-3.0" of lift...which is what I want, but don't want to run into other problems.<<< Also, the very top rubber pieces that contact the frame and go directly above the coil....I believe they are called coil keepers, are totally wasted. Where do I get replacements...? And bumpstops? where do I get quality replacements for those? Anything else I should swap out while I'm taking the coils out? :???: Thanks! :banana: :banana:

I have a 92 comanche eliminator 4.0L and it has a 4 1/2 in rough country suspension lift on it. I want to lift it two more inches and i was wondering if i would just be able to fit a two in coil spacer on there and an adda leaf and be good? Or will i need more to go along.. If theres an easier cheaper way please share. Just wanting to clear 33's