Search the Community

7/15/22 After about 16 years of wanting an MJ I finally own one. I had tried to buy one previously twice but it didn't work out. I've had XJs since before I got my license. I currently own 3 XJs, 1 TJ, and a willys CJ3A. All of which are projects of their own with their own problems lol.. But I have sizeable plans for this little MJ. She is an 87 2.5L 4spd manual. Mostly 4wd converted by PO. I am now in the process of cleaning up and reassembling everything that was taken apart. Currently I need to: Install the full exhaust Repair the exhaust manifold leak caused by a broken from stud - Planning to do EGR delete at this time. Reassemble the interior - new hardware for seatbelts, seat mounts, lower trim pieces, install new speedo cable, and put the dash together. I need to buy new carpeting, new seat mounts from a member on here, seat mounting nuts, misc exhaust parts. Before I reassemble the dash I am switching the gauge cluster from a dummy cluster to full cluster. I have already sourced a cluster and will be on the way soon.

No need to say it, but I'm new here. Just picked up my first Comanche last week and I love it. The guy I bought it from had 4 of them sitting in his yard. 2 for parts, and 2 to drive. He painted this one himself and I love the color man. It definitely has some issues, but the body and interior are in great shape. I've never driven a 4-speed before.. I can't say I love it but honestly it's not bad. The rear end has some clunking on decel, and according to the seller it's the pinion bearing. It drove fine on the way home after I bought it, but I know I need to fix the rear end asap. 2 days ago it randomly started running rough and misfiring at idle. I did a lot of research on here and I'm so thankful for this community, otherwise I would have wasted a lot more time and money on it than I needed to. I found 2 cracked vacuum lines (one that runs from the throttle-body to the vacuum reservoir, one that runs to the firewall) and after replacing those and doing a basic tune-up it runs fantastic. I still have a lot left to do though as I've found several other issues. Things I've done to it since I bought it Oil Change Plugs, Wires, Cap & Rotor Coolant Temp Sensor (for temp gauge) Serpentine Belt Vacuum Lines Things I need to work on next Rear End - Planning to open her up and see what I need to fix. The Dana 35 appears to be pretty easy to work on from what I've seen. This is going to be the first thing I fix. I have tools to help me get the crush sleeve set and I don't think it will be a problem outside of working the old bearing races out. Universal Joint - After inspecting my rear end I actually found out that the vibrations and knocking were coming from a loose universal joint. Clutch Master and Slave - I was happy to find a few drips of clutch fluid on my floor-mats and noticed that it has been dripping on my fuse box. The master cylinder will have to be replaced. I also noticed what looks like fluid under the transmission. I fear that the internal slave on my AX4 might be leaking too.. This is going to be my least favorite job I think. Rear Main Seal - I doubt this thing has been replaced since 1987. I found a video that shows how to do it without removing the crank, so I am probably going to try that first. I might as well to it at the same time as the slave cylinder, so it's going to be a nice weekend job. Water Pump & Thermostat - There doesnt appear to be anything wrong with these, but I think its safer for me to replace them now before I end up having an issue. It's a reverse rotation water pump from what I've gathered. Valve Cover and Oil Pan Gaskets - I'm going to have to replace the oil pan gasket when I change the rear main, so may as well change the valve cover gaskets too. Front parking lights - these don't work right now. I think a bulb is missing from one side. Not sure about the other. AX4 Output Shaft Seal - Discovered this was leaking while replacing the U-Joint. Horn - The horn button on my wheel does not engage the horn. This could be several things, so Ill have to troubleshoot. After I get these all done I should have a pretty solid truck. I'm really excited. I get a good bit of attention driving her around town. Actually had 2 guys tail me on the way home one day which was fun... I don't know for sure but judging from what I saw I was worried they were going to try to jack the truck Anyways.. Happy to be here! I'll update things as I go. See you guys around! P.S. Vacuum Lines are definitely the first thing people should check if the engine is running rough... Most of you seem to know that already, but I didn't at first.

I have a 1989 Comanche sport truck. It is a 2.5l 4cyl 2wd. I am in the current process or rebuilding the engine and doing a 4wd swap. I have pulled the ax4 as it is worn out with nearly 350,000 miles on it and intend to replace it with a Ax5/np231 combination. I have sourced a pair from a 97 2.5l TJ. Will that bolt up to my '89 block once i get done rebuilding my engine? and is there any serious modification required to do that swap? Any extra electronics on the '97?

Last week I started this thread http://comancheclub.com/topic/41888-86-comanche-purchasing-advice/ to ask for help with purchasing a comanche. It took a little while, with the seller being absent for a while but since last tuesday I am officially the owner of a new to me 1986 comanche! It's hard to describe how exited I am about this, it's my first car and what a car to start with! Before I give you my long story, let's get the obligatory pictures out of the way first. So, as mentioned before it's an 86 LWB. It was imported from Californio late 2012 and had been sitting in the p/o's garage since then. He started sanding the hood and roof and did some other things, but eventually just didn't have time anymore for it and wanted to get rid of it. Which I where I came in of course. I took it off his hands for a reasonable price and was able to drive it home, where I got some sweet time to get to know my new pick up. It runs fine, it shifts(though first and second whine) and it goes down at 75 mph quite well. But let's say that there are a few...ahem..issues. None of which I can't tackle, but I definitely miss having an autozone/advanced/napa with a full availabilty of knock off or reman parts. Now, the list of critical problems. - The (power)steering box leaks fluid, not at the pitman arm(as far as I know) but definitely at the input shaft from the actual steering wheel. There is also a lot of slop in the steering wheel, and when I go lock to lock the whole car vibrates pretty badly. I can't imagine what causes that horrible vibration, maybe low fluid or something, I don't know. The serpentine doesn't look brand new but it's not worn. The p/o gave me a few seals to tackle it, but I think I just need a rebuild kit or a new one. I haven't had it off the floor yet so I can't confirm the slop comes from the box, but considering its condition I suspect it's that. The steering wheel itself is offset too, but the weird thing is that the car tracks very well. I can let go of the wheel and it just keeps going straight...quite surprising. - The brakes need to be bled, I found that out right when I took off. It was pretty scary. I went ahead and just treated myself to a WJ master cylinder + booster from a JY, i hope to god it works and doesn't leak or have vacume issues. - Being in Europe, I need to adjust adjust the lighting. At least up to a point where I'm not blinding everyone in their tiny little Peugot 106's. Or smart roadsters for that matter, holy $#!& those are small and low... - It has vibrations between 50-55 miles per hour. The front driveshaft is also not currently in it, though I do have it. I need to do ujoints on both shafts and see if that helps. After I get these four critical things fixed, I can bring it in for a National inspection. Right now I don't have a formal title or even license plates. That means I can't legally drive it, insure it or pay the required quarterly roadtaxes. With the JY brake set up bleeding it shouldn't require much, but I haven't had it on four jackstands yet. Who knows what else there is to find, wheelbearings, CV joints on the halfshafts, the list is endless. So far I've just taken off those horrid round lights off of the rollbar, they're nice and heavy but I want rectangular lights as they came from the factory. I think it just suits the headlights better. I've also been tackling the interior lights, which turned out to be a bad connection. I need to follow all of the renix tips, refresh grounds etc. But so far I just haven't had the time. I won't bore you with my long list of things I want to do to this car, because it's all pretty cookie cutter. But for now I just want it safe and mechanically sound so I can get plates and drive it to work and school. I've been using the search function a lot to solve issues, but I'll keep posting updates here when I get time. I have next week off from class and (mostly) work, so I'll get a lot done I hope. Thanks for reading! *edit, as far as the last picture goes. Those were in the spare parts container. Anyone know what they are?

AX4/ AX5 internal and external slave bellhousings are the same part. The internal slave model doesnt have the studs for the external slave or the ball stud for the throw-out, otherwise they are the same. And through comparing part numbers, they use the same clutch disc and pressure plate between the two as well. The driveshaft for a short bed 2.5, AX5, 231 combo will work in a 2.5, AX5, 207 combo. This is assuming that the 207 was only used in the 86 model Comanches. If I'm wrong please let me know. The driveshaft I bought said it was out of an 87, so I assume it was with a 231. I was really worried about this one as I bought the driveshaft 3-4 years ago for my project to convert to 4x4. Measuring the differences in the 2wd and 4wd trans setups comes to almost exactly 12 inches longer for the 4wd one, but measuring the driveshafts I came up that the 2wd one was about 13 1/2 inches longer than the 4wd one I bought. Looking at the 4wd one installed on the lift with the rear at full droop, I have about a full half of spline engagement in the t-case output, so looks like I will be good! All I have left now to finish my 4x4 conversion is re attach exhaust, install crank sensor, install the little bracket that supports the t-case shifter, bleed the clutch master and slave. I also have new U-joints to install, but those will come after I can get this thing moving again. And I guess I need a new speedo cable as the 2wd one is way too short now. Never heard about that being an issue before in reading about other peoples conversions. Oh well. Its also getting new park brake cables as soon as I get the chance as well. Mine have collapsed on themselves rendering the park brake useless.

I have an '86 Comanche 2.5L with Throttle Body Injection and a AX4, 4-speed manual. The engine is not the original Comanche engine, but one from a YJ Wrangler from what I would assume is similar in year and function. Anyway, I was driving it the day before last to work and it was doing fine until it warmed up. All of a sudden, it just acted like it wasn't getting gas when I pressed the accelerator. It idled back down and was running rough, but as soon as I tried to give it gas, it would spit/sputter and bog down. It shut off on its own, so I gave it a few seconds and then I started it back up and the problem went away, for a little while anyway. I got about 2 miles further down the road and then the same thing. That time, I cut the engine off and restarted it about 10 seconds later. I made it all the way to work from then on without hesitation. On the way home from work, the same thing happened 3 more times. Anyone have any ideas on what this could be caused by? It has new spark plugs, a clean air filter, fuel injector cleaner and Iso-heet (water remover) in the gas. Edit... I took it for a test drive today with my dad to see what he thinks, and it did it about 4 times just going a couple miles down the street. We both feel as though it something fuel related or sensors starving it of gas. I have noticed a pattern, however. When it begins these spells of bogging down, I will turn of the engine and start it again while I'm coasting (did that all 4 times during today's drive). Once it's been restarted, it runs and drives perfectly fine for a little while until the issue arises again. It's the damndest thing because I don't have a clue how to begin sourcing the problem... I imagine just strictly looking at the fuel system, there are really only four main components: Fuel pump, fuel filter, pressure regulator and TB injector. The FP seems to prime fine and I can hear it running when idled and what not, though I haven't tested it for the 14-15 psi pressure that's needed. The fuel filter looks to have been recently replaced by the previous owner as it appears new from the outside. The TB injector seems to be spraying good and in a conical fashion. I haven't put a vacuum meter on the regulator, but that's next. Also, it's been suggested on CherokeeForum that it could be my TPS. I will be checking that with my digital multimeter. The O2 sensor appears to have been replaced by the PO. So, as far as sensors go, I don't know what else could alter the A/F ratio. I guess the most confusing part of it all is that when I cut it off and restart the engine, it runs fine for a little while. It's very random when the symptom occurs. Anyway, sorry for the long post, but I really need to figure it out soon because I'm about to stop driving my XJ to swap in a stroker. Any help or advice on this MJ issue would be greatly appreciated. Forgot to mention, the PO removed the cat and just ran a pipe to the muffler, so a clogged cat can't be an issue. Sorry if speaking of this is against forum rules, I am simply mentioning it to eliminate that as a potential issue...