1987Comanche

The bolts have a T-50 head. Not sure if standard or metric but I have a few rolling around in the basement. The unthreaded portion of the bolts will be difficult to match up as this area allows the seat belts to pivot/rotate.

Looks like a solid base to work from. If the existing harness is fixable, patch it and keep your eyes peeled for harness that doesn't have a C101 connector (89+ I think?). Might as well kill 2 birds with one stone. Once you get her running rebuild the braking system. After sitting for that long you're bound to have leaks crop up and brakes are a bad place for leaks...

Thanks! I picked her up from a guy in Snellville, GA and could see Stone Mountain in the rear view mirror as I was trailering her home. I like the subtle, OE look as well. Though the build sheet doesn't reflect all the options on the truck she could have been ordered the way she's sitting now...

Santa brought Georgia a USA made clutch master cylinder to replace leaking Chinese clutch master #2. I can now change Georgia's clutch master cyl in 45 mins though I'm trying to get out of this particular business. I sent the Chinese one back to the mainland via Auto Zone with my regards:

Georgia's vibration ('92, 4.0, AX-15, 2WD) started at about 50mph and, while there many contributors, the main culprits were loose U joint retaining straps and/or a bad trans mount. Bad ball joints, control arm bushings, and track bar didn't help the problem any but weren't the main cause. Are you sure your U joint retaining bolts are tight? I always Loctite mine in place...PO apparently didn't and they backed out.

Fixed 2 of my 3 interior squeaks/rattles. Picked up another glove compartment latch at the jy which cured the squeaky glove box door. Also grabbed the 2 plastic spacers and metal receiver for the horn button which fixed the rattling center. Still trying to figure out what the center console lid needs to stop squeaking... Georgia has been pulling her weight around the house. Had to pull the trans out of the car to get it rebuilt and she's been hauling parts for me. Pulling a RWD trans is soooo much easier than FWD.

I'm trying to track down a few annoying squeaks/rattles in Georgia's interior and I've isolated 3 separate ones: -Glove compartment door. It only rattles when it's less than 35 or 40 degrees. I don't see any obvious adjustment, the light works properly and the door seems centered. -Steering wheel center cap. It only rattles when it's less than 30 degrees. The center cap is tightly secured to the metal insert but the assembly has a fair amount of slop. Maura's had slop but it never rattled. -Center console lid. It only squeaks when it's warm (55 degrees +). I've tried pieces of foam insulation in various places but can't seem to nail it down. I'm planning to hit the jy in the next week or two and am trying to figure out what part(s) I need to address these. As far as I can tell nothing is obviously broken in any of the 3 areas. Anyone tackled any/all of these squeaks & rattles?

Unfortunately no. Even a year later the scab that was that POS ATK engine still hurts. If I had to do it again I'd find a good jy motor or have it rebuilt locally. Hopefully engine #2 held up better. Biotex owns Maura now so perhaps he can chime in with a health/mileage update.

The under dash floor vent on the bottom of the airbox is held on with 2 or 3 Phillips head screws. If you pull it from a full console XJ/MJ it's a direct replacement for the floor vent that came with the mini console truck.

Ron's remove your own parts in Greer has a 2WD 4.0 '92 XJ with the AX-15 5 speed in the yard. Should be a good clutch pedal donor for you. Out of curiosity how many miles on your pedal when the weld let go?

I tried household paint thinner, lacquer thinner, Sherwin Williams "Shur Will Clean" paint prep, and kerosene. Nothing touched it. The only thing that seems to work is the passage of time...ever so slowly it seems to get brittle and crack/come off. At the current rate it will take about 50 yrs for it to all come off :doh:

Thanks :D Considering that I found her totaled and covered in pine needles I'm happy (and a bit surprised) to see there was that much shine left in the paint. She was worth saving...

Georgia is the first MJ I've owned with decent paint so it only seemed right to give her a wash & wax. This is the first time I've ever waxed an MJ and I'm on #3. Other than the white road paint (from the PO) I'm pretty happy with how she turned out. Some glamor shots:

:doh: You sure your garage wasn't built on an Indian burial ground? :wall:

Voltage provided to the starter solenoid during cranking is split. One leg goes to the solenoid, the other provides the ECU input at C3. Haven't figured out where the splice is yet though... Not sure if C4 is a constant ground or only provided during cranking. OneOverZero and I ran out of time before figuring this one out. What manual do you have? The 1987 Electrical (orange with fold out pages) and 1990 Electrical (paper copy or the one Biotex posted) are the ones we've been using.

Verified for C3 and C4... So here's what I hope to accomplish. If the ECU doesn't see the engine start signal, how does it know to execute the engine crank procedure? That would seem to be a key input...once again wondering if anyone has run into trouble here. Lots of stuff listed on bad CPS, wasn't able to find anything on this.

Has anyone ever played with the "engine start" input to the ECU? OneOverZero and I found a reference to this in the FSM. Pin C3 & C4 on the ECU if I remember correctly

2WD AX-15 VSS is dead simple. I used a big adjustable wrench to break it loose and cleaned everything while I was there. Took 15-20 minutes to do everything. This is my VSS: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-1993-Chrysler-Dodge-Jeep-Vehicle-Speed-Sensor-/330703041948?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1992|Make%3AJeep&hash=item4cff6ff59c&vxp=mtr

You can hear the pump prime but can't hear the pump running while cranking (environment is too loud). As soon as the key is released, however, you can hear the pump run for 0.5 sec or so then shut off. A few questions/comments: 1. Has anyone had firsthand experience in frying a Renix ECU? If so how did you do it and what should be double/triple checked before plugging in the Mopar reflashed ECU? These are pretty scarce and it would be very difficult to replace. 2. Does spark at the coil/plugs conclusively verify the CPS is functioning properly? I thought the ECU had to see 300-400 RPM before the injectors would fire but I don't remember seeing anything about conditions for spark. 3. Assuming one could find an appropriate DRB II connector would a scan tool be of any help above & beyond a multimeter? 4. Has anyone used a noid light set on a Renix injector harness? If so, how did you fare out? 5. The continuous formation of air pockets and lack of spray from the Schrader valve is troublesome. Can someone check their Renix and see if depressing the Schrader valve (Key on, engine off) produces a dribble of fuel or a spray?

Is this the '92 in Greensboro I posted a link to? If so that is a sweet looking MJ. I agree with everyone else...58K '92 is the way to go!

She's my '92 4.0HO AX-15 2WD... http://comancheclub.com/topic/37173-georgia-92-40-ho-ax-15-2wd/

The only symptom I had on Georgia was the speedo intermittently dropping out (going dead). No codes, no drivability issues.

VSS probably went out. Georgia's died a few weeks ago. It's super easy to change and I picked one up on e-bay for $15.

Biotex posted some FSMs a while back. 86-90 should be mostly the same in terms of wiring. See if this has what you need: http://www.alpinefurniturestore.com/JeepDocumentation/jeeps.html

Hit the jy this weekend and found a few interesting things. Saw this '89 4X4 in the parking lot at the U-Pull-it and spent a few minutes talking with the guy. Went to the 2nd U-Pull-It (only 20 min drive from the first one) and found an XJ Waggy with a nice front clip. It was too nice to leave behind...this one is going to OneOverZero for his MJ. Pulled the woodgrain dash trim from the Waggy for Georgia and put it in tonight: